Why do so many members complain about the high cost of ownership for a turbo regal? If you are starting with a relatively clean example regular maintenance parts are cheap. If you are staying relatively stock the costs should not skyrocket. Yes there are shortcomings that need to be addressed, ie braking and suspension, but there are plenty of brake upgrade options that wont break the bank if you know where to look. Suspension, well that wont be too bad. The stock bottom end of the engine is stout enough for mild performance upgrades, kenne bell had a stage 1 block in the 7s 20 years ago. The trans is a weak point but a th350 swap is doable, and 200r4 are available in every junkyard nationwide. Try maintaining a stock bmw or vw. Parts expense is much higher. Granted if you need alot of out of production body panels or interior parts it may get pricey, but the same goes for any classic. As for hot air performance being much more expensive than an ic model I dont see it in this day and age. Alky injection and em options like megasquirt are very affordable. Do your research and plan it right and you should have a very capable and reliable dual purpose vehicle for minimal cost.
High cost of ownership? Really?
- Thread starter 2sloUknow
- Start date
There are a lot of parts for these cars that are cheap. If it fits a plain Regal it's usually cheap. If it's a turbo Regal specific part, the price just went waaaayyyy up. There are also a lot of parts that cost a frigin fortune AND some of those are hard to find.
Yes, a 350 swap is doable.... but you'll kill your mileage, ride comfort and performance..... Pull a 200 out of a junkyard and you'll keep overdrive... until it's insides fly out and litter the roadway.
When these cars decide it's time to get in your wallet, they are going to get into your wallet. ESP if the owner is the type to just start throwing parts at a problem until it's fixed (or the owners broke).
Yes, a 350 swap is doable.... but you'll kill your mileage, ride comfort and performance..... Pull a 200 out of a junkyard and you'll keep overdrive... until it's insides fly out and litter the roadway.
When these cars decide it's time to get in your wallet, they are going to get into your wallet. ESP if the owner is the type to just start throwing parts at a problem until it's fixed (or the owners broke).
If only Kenne Bell himself would chim in and tell you how " CHEAP " it was to get his stage 1 block car in the 7s ......LMAO!! I think you would'nt be so quick to say how " CHEAP " it is to maintain a real high HP Turbo Regal $$$$ 
But if your talking about a bone stock 14 sec TR...That's a whole horse of another color...... Just keep clean oil in it and ride nice n SLOW
But if your talking about a bone stock 14 sec TR...That's a whole horse of another color...... Just keep clean oil in it and ride nice n SLOW If only Kenne Bell himself would chim in and tell you how " CHEAP " it was to get his stage 1 block car in the 7s ......LMAO!! I think you would'nt be so quick to say how " CHEAP " it is to maintain a real high HP Turbo Regal $$$$
Absolutely. If you ain't breaking you ain't racing! My point is UNLESS you are shooting for high hp these cars are NOT money pits. Most of the components are corporate and therefore not exorbitant. You can mildly improve the performance and still have a reliable vehicle that is fun and earns respect without breaking the bank.
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By the way, there is no KENNE BELL. The company known as Kenne Bell was started by Jim Bell back in the late 60's and grew to prominance with TR performance upgrades in the 80s. Now there may be a few Kenny Bells running around out there, and I've seen the company name misspelled countless times on this board lol.
If only Kenne Bell himself would chim in and tell you how " CHEAP " it was to get his stage 1 block car in the 7s ......LMAO!! I think you would'nt be so quick to say how " CHEAP " it is to maintain a real high HP Turbo Regal $$$$
What 7 second car is cheap? And when did this happen?
Nevermind, found it.
I didnt say Kenne bell had a 7sec car 2sloUknow said that in his 1st post...for the record I have been around drag racing and street racing since the 80s...I know better than to say any 7sec race car is cheap.
koOL now.....do they list the total cost?
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2010
I'll invite you to name the experienced member who's complaining about paying out some $$ for a low 11 - high 10 second street TR.
I would beg to differ that it's more a kind of statement than a complaint to others that warns the guys new to the TR game -
"If you don't have experience with these cars and you believe 10's are cheaply achieved, you might have another think a-comin".
Keep reading here, then try all the "cheap" mods recommended by some of the yahoos on here and then post up how that works for ya'.
The guy who is building the "Rusty Silver Bullet" is no newb to the TR scene, let me tell you. This fellow has forgotten more than many will ever know and knows the tricks of the trade. That knowledge cost him, I can assure you. He's letting his 16 year old kid drive the car for cryin' out loud! (BTW, how cool is that?)
If you want to believe you will continue to be happy with the way your stock TR runs, once you've seen what a few (moderately pricey) bolt on's will do, well then good for you. Youv'e got more self control than I will ever have.
But don't feel bad when a TR guy with mere 1K worth of simple bolt-on's hands you your ass at the drag strip, and does it by 2 car lengths.......or more.....
I won't go into what the Moostang guys will do to you.......
I would beg to differ that it's more a kind of statement than a complaint to others that warns the guys new to the TR game -
"If you don't have experience with these cars and you believe 10's are cheaply achieved, you might have another think a-comin".
Keep reading here, then try all the "cheap" mods recommended by some of the yahoos on here and then post up how that works for ya'.
The guy who is building the "Rusty Silver Bullet" is no newb to the TR scene, let me tell you. This fellow has forgotten more than many will ever know and knows the tricks of the trade. That knowledge cost him, I can assure you. He's letting his 16 year old kid drive the car for cryin' out loud! (BTW, how cool is that?)
If you want to believe you will continue to be happy with the way your stock TR runs, once you've seen what a few (moderately pricey) bolt on's will do, well then good for you. Youv'e got more self control than I will ever have.
But don't feel bad when a TR guy with mere 1K worth of simple bolt-on's hands you your ass at the drag strip, and does it by 2 car lengths.......or more.....
I won't go into what the Moostang guys will do to you.......
captndave737
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2006
I have a 99 BMW 323i with 145k on it. Ive had it 11 years and it's MUCH cheaper and easier to maintain than my GN that I bought new. You can buy almost anything online for them. I've never raced my GN but you can see from my signature what Ive done. Most mods were done when some thing just flat out or broke. Headers, exhaust, MAF Etc. compare any go fast parts for a Chevy that you can get at Summit or Jegs with it costs us and the Buick is a money pit. But hey, thats the price of going fast with class.
That's true. Go fast parts for chevy's are cheaper than go fast parts for the GN.... But a GN with $1000 in upgrades with mop the floor with other street cars that have much much more money in them.
We can do stuff like dump paint thinner in the tank and turn a simple threaded rod if we have to. That's pretty cost effective. Put $1000 into an 80's IROC or Mustang and you're still in the 14's.
We can do stuff like dump paint thinner in the tank and turn a simple threaded rod if we have to. That's pretty cost effective. Put $1000 into an 80's IROC or Mustang and you're still in the 14's.
1fastcobra
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2012
Sorry.stang with a 150 shot ,exhaust, gear ,Stickies, good gas & timing
Under a grand high 11's all day. With a good driver. Mop the gn all day.
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See the thing here is you added nos. Granted $1000 without limits to what you mod is totally fair and most likely the point of your comparison. A stock GN (in the sense of no bottle, just adjusting boost for the higher octane fuel) vs a N/A stang or iroc with same money put into it wont work and won't be as fast.
The Iroc and moostang and any other v8 of the day wuld need at least nos to be able to keep up or beat it. The beauty of the GN is right there.
What Earl speaks is the truth (like usual). Most people that complain about the cost of ownership because they do not properly diagnose a problem. They buy parts and replace them hoping it takes care of the problem. But these same people want an exact recipe for a 10 sec car and spend 10's of thousands of dollars and still cant get there.
I challenge any new turbo buick owner to read and follow the "Project Rusty Silver Bullet" thread. having a fast car 12, 11, 10, 9 sec car takes tuning and seat time. I can guarantee if you ask any racer that is fast (use your own judgement on fast because it doesnt matter) they will tell you it takes time and tuning.
I totally whole heartedly agree with what has been said by earl and others of the opinion (more like facts).
I have trouble when it comes ot owning this car due to kind of being in a crappy state when it comes to finding a good machine shop that knows a thing or two about buicks and especially these TR's. Never went to school to become a certified ASE mechanic or know a dam thing about building an engine. The only bit of information that I know is that surfaces need to be milled where they meet with a gasket separating them as well as properly torquing to the correct specs and pattern. The only other thing I'm somewhat good at is with electronics. I can wire most things and figure out others.
I honestly would love to to find a local or somewhat local guy that is really good at putting the motors together and helping out without pay so that I can learn about them. I just hate redoing gaskets like 50 million times, especially the intake manifold one =/
I have trouble when it comes ot owning this car due to kind of being in a crappy state when it comes to finding a good machine shop that knows a thing or two about buicks and especially these TR's. Never went to school to become a certified ASE mechanic or know a dam thing about building an engine. The only bit of information that I know is that surfaces need to be milled where they meet with a gasket separating them as well as properly torquing to the correct specs and pattern. The only other thing I'm somewhat good at is with electronics. I can wire most things and figure out others.
I honestly would love to to find a local or somewhat local guy that is really good at putting the motors together and helping out without pay so that I can learn about them. I just hate redoing gaskets like 50 million times, especially the intake manifold one =/
1fastcobra
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2012
He said 1000 in H.P upgrading the gn . It will mop the floor with any 80's car what a crock
I said 1000 to upgrade the 5.0
What's the difference of what HP upgrade is done
I've seen 5.0's run 12's with no spray
Tweeking . Tuning and lightning them up for next to no money
It depends on the driver
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^^Now that's where it can get pricy. Having to pay someone (qualified) to work on a GN is a serious price hit as opposed to doing it yourself (right the first time). Like me for example, not only did I build my own engine, I did all the machine work myself too. My build from the day my car was stolen to the day I heard it run only cost me parts (that I sourced cost effectively over time). If I'd paid someone to build the 4.2 I'm running it would have probably been over triple the money and cost me another several grand (and still not been as good as I built it).
Over the years I've seen many newbies come and go.. They start off with their dream car, spend waaaaaaaaay more money than they should, then dump their nightmare for a loss. Or take the short path, and blow the engine to bits while ignoring good advice to concentrate on important stuff like 'pushing boost' and 'gears' and 'flowmasters' and junk like that. These cars don't respond to mods like other cars, period. That's not an opinion, that's a fact.
Over the years I've seen many newbies come and go.. They start off with their dream car, spend waaaaaaaaay more money than they should, then dump their nightmare for a loss. Or take the short path, and blow the engine to bits while ignoring good advice to concentrate on important stuff like 'pushing boost' and 'gears' and 'flowmasters' and junk like that. These cars don't respond to mods like other cars, period. That's not an opinion, that's a fact.
I did it all through the late 90's and 2000s...
A good friend had a clean 89 IROC 5.7 that had no problems with Mustangs. He spent a bunch of money on Throttle body air foils, flowmasters, AFPR, bigger TPI runners, K&N filter, edlebrock headers, I ported out the plenum wall (free. and the only mod that really did anything), and a few other bolt-ons.... still couldn't keep my unopened GN in sight.
You example was kinda apples and giraffes though. I mention street cars and you said $1000 for gears, spray and stickies. I can't imagine you can get all that installed and shaken down for a grand, and stickies are track stuff.
I still laugh a little inside at all the '11 sec' cars I outran back when I had a 225,000 mile 13.3 car. Then again, I don't live for a time slip, and I damn sure don't live to bench race. It was just a car that I drove every day.
Even with my car being stolen, trashed, recovered, and rebuilt, I've got about $15,000 in it. That includes the paint job, dynotech transmission, engine build, all the bolt ons AND the purchase price back in '96. That breaks down to well under $1000 a year. I don't care how you spin it, that's pretty cost effective. I've got some friends that spend almost that much a month for a cookie cutter car.
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