Got the lImited running, code 44, rough idle, BLM 150

I suppose, I just think that after the ECM is reset, it is then learning the system new. Thats why it starts off at 128 until the car warms up and runs a little then creeps its way back up to 150. Am I wrong? Can anyone confirm this? If so, I'll wait till the car is ready for the street to go any farther! THAT WOULD BE A BONUS!!!!!!! I do know on my GN, I had readings of 150 and after I found the crossover loose and re-tightened it. I reset the ECM and it never went past 130 since. It would be awesome if it was actually fixed!

You need to drive it. Block learn(long term corrections) won't go back to norm until Integrator (short term corrections) stabilizes.

ECM Learning ability on this page

6E-Page5.jpg


ED20 on this page

6E3-13.jpg
 
I suppose, I just think that after the ECM is reset, it is then learning the system new. Thats why it starts off at 128 until the car warms up and runs a little then creeps its way back up to 150. Am I wrong? Can anyone confirm this? If so, I'll wait till the car is ready for the street to go any farther! THAT WOULD BE A BONUS!!!!!!! I do know on my GN, I had readings of 150 and after I found the crossover loose and re-tightened it. I reset the ECM and it never went past 130 since. It would be awesome if it was actually fixed!

You really should wait until it can be taken out on a "drive around". I have what I consider to be a pretty darn good "tune" on my car.
Back when I was running a different system and was concerned about BLM's they would be virtually perfect (120-135) during normal driving conditions, and when the car was at a stop light, etc.

HOWEVER. If I just fired up the car and let it idle to warmup in the driveway, it would often send the BLM's up very high.

It was pretty consistent. I ALWAYS recommend to folks that they NOT start the car and warm it up in Park/neutral and be concerned about what the BLM's are doing.

If you take it out for a drive around and come to a stop sign and it climbs to 150, then there's an issue.
 
You need to drive it. Block learn(long term corrections) won't go back to norm until Integrator (short term corrections) stabilizes.

ECM Learning ability on this page

6E-Page5.jpg


ED20 on this page

6E3-13.jpg

Thanks for that info! I used to have my buddy's service manuals but he wanted them back now that he got another TR! I'm going to invest in another set.
 
You really should wait until it can be taken out on a "drive around". I have what I consider to be a pretty darn good "tune" on my car.
Back when I was running a different system and was concerned about BLM's they would be virtually perfect (120-135) during normal driving conditions, and when the car was at a stop light, etc.

HOWEVER. If I just fired up the car and let it idle to warmup in the driveway, it would often send the BLM's up very high.

It was pretty consistent. I ALWAYS recommend to folks that they NOT start the car and warm it up in Park/neutral and be concerned about what the BLM's are doing.

If you take it out for a drive around and come to a stop sign and it climbs to 150, then there's an issue.

When i rev the motor, the BLM's shoot back down to 128 on the dot. I was always under the opinion you want to check your BLM's at idle?
 
When i rev the motor, the BLM's shoot back down to 128 on the dot. I was always under the opinion you want to check your BLM's at idle?

That's because there's MORE THAN ONE CELL. When you rev the engine, it's not lowering the BLM to 128, what you're seeing is a different cell that has 128 in it because of your recent resets.

You're getting all wrapped around the axle trying to troubleshoot a BLM problem that may or may not exist because you're trying all this without allowing the computer to learn (not driving).
 
Well, I made sure everything was tightened down now. I also cleaned the EGR gasket and put some gasket maker on it to seal it up. I did the brakes and pulled it out of the garage to move the tranny around and check fluid there. I am going to call it good until I have a chance to drive it. It idles very smoothly. I took a stethascope and listened to everything to hear and pully noise or air/exhaust leakage. Everything sounds great! I am getting a little noise out of the tensioner pully so I am going to take that off and regrease it. Otherwise, I think she's as good to go as it's going to get! Thanks for the help!
 
Hi J.D. -

Just revisiting this old thread. Have you solved your
problem? If not, have you gone thru all the items I
listed? If so, what was the fix?

Steve
 
Yep, got'er running great now. Ended up being a leaking gasket between the plenum and the intake. It actually started to whistle while idling, thats how I found it. Now the car runs exceptionally smooth. I hope my GN runs as well!
 
Hi J.D.

Congratulations! We like success stories.

I have a Ferrari mechanic who is meticulous with diagnoses and fixes.

I have learned two things from him that I apply to my Buick.
1. Check everything related to a problem...no small thing should ever be ignored.
2. Remain patient so I can follow my check list and related changes.

I have also learned a third thing here: There are a lot of good guys on this site who are nice enough to help out and usually come up with good advice.

Steve
 
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