Got a carb turbo torn apart and

The draw through system works if you want to do your homework. The nice thing about a turbo is that you can adjust the boost level to change the HP output. That's not something you can do with an NA or FI engine unless you've add a turbo. Since you got your car running now start your own thread and tell us about the car and what you'd like to do to it.;)
 
Personally I wouldn't spend more than 4k to have a nice car, and by that time you just as well go buy a low mile car or a nice na and swap the guts
 
I would not spend the time/effort on the drawthrough again to be honest. However, i really learned a lot. I was split between getting this motor or an Olds 330 when I first started. I think it would be faster with a 330 and would have been a lot easier to drop in. Ive just spent too much time to end up with something not super fast. If I would have picked it up today I would have run a boosted LS 5.3. I built it before I really knew about LS stuff so im not complaining, just saying.

However, i ended up with something nobody else really has. The future plan is to get a single plane weiand, convert it to EFI, pick up a bunch of GN stuff and convert the car to run on GM 3800 SII EFI. Ive got a solid longblock and it all fits great.
 
But, nothing is cooler than a factory turbo car staying drawthrough. I will NEVER have a SBC in anything I own. Id rather be slow and have something strange than a normal anything. A red 70 chevelle/camaro with a SBC is the most boring older common car out there. If somebody doesnt ask "why did you do that" its not worth owning.
 
MNcarbturbo said:
But, nothing is cooler than a factory turbo car staying drawthrough. I will NEVER have a SBC in anything I own. Id rather be slow and have something strange than a normal anything. A red 70 chevelle/camaro with a SBC is the most boring older common car out there. If somebody doesnt ask "why did you do that" its not worth owning.
Click to expand...

Total hero quote......

Love every letter.

Summed it all up for me too.

Proud to be a carb guy.

:D

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I dont have a problem with engine swaps. I just dont like seeing LS/SBC swapped real GN's. I understand if you are going 10's and blow your 3.8 and want to go 9's you already have a lot of work into the car but its still a GN.

If it is a true SS/z28/GSX/442 ect car I believe it should have the respective correct motor. Yeah the performance versions are better start points, but its nice to keep them right.
 
Dropped the 2004r out, threw the ye olde blue 350 in. Just need to get the kickdown cable on since I broke the old one and the car is back under 3 speed power.

When i pulled the pan off the 2004R there was a bunch of material in the pan and wierd colored fluid. The trans sat out unused for 10 years so i dont know if the clutch material can deteriorate over time or what. I put 4 miles on it and it was totally shot so something is wrong.

Going to get a ck book and rebuild over christmas break hopefully.
 
Played around with carbs and stuff today. Got my good PECV on and put a different turbo carb I had laying around on to see if it made a difference. My carb has always had a 5" to 3PSI hesitiation and occasional pop. Idled great but wouldnt do anything off idle. Took the air horn off and it was full of dust. One of the primary circuits was plugged solid along with no accelerator pump. Cleaned it out and ran better but needs a complete overhaul. Leaks somewhere and the secondaries werent opening. Threw the old carb back on since its better. Its never liked having the power valve hooked up. Its better than its ever been, first shot was useless with it hooked directly from the carb to the PECV port on the base. Then I did an electrical setup and was semi driveable. Not its not horrible but it goes lean from 8" until the secondaries open up and is down on power. Its not letting the valve open fast enough for some reason. I dont know if I should drill a small hole in the hose or what.

Fixed a few other small issues like some cracked vacuume plugs, got my alky hooked back up, found out why my elec fans wernt running, got the wiring for the drivers window fixed it again, found a good 2004R im going to buy and put in instead of finding out why mine is broke.

Farm car!


 
I haz overdrive! Put the cardboard under it to find the inevitable leaks. Converter is set up with a 4th gear lockup pressure switch, brake switch, and 5" vacuume switch. Only problem is since im turboed it lockup hunts real bad. Spends a lot of time under light accel at 5" and it locks, loads the motor, spools the turbo, makes the power to reduce the load, lowers vacuume, locks, and repeats. I need a 3sec signal delay module or something. Speedo kinda works, I have a black driven gear and either a red or orange gear. Problem is GM used both red and orange drives (go figure) and I think Im about 40% high or so. It looks more orange to me so with my black driven a 28" tire should be right on. Ive got a 26" tire though so I should only be 9% off but its more than that so it leads me to think I have a red driven gear but the source im looking at doesnt spec a black driven with a red drive. We will see.

But it goes 60 at 1950 RPM so thats pretty nice. :D
 
Good to hear. I just finished the brake adapter brackets for the blazer knuckles so I can run a 12" rotor and a caliper with a 2 & 15/16" piston. Will be testing it in the next week or 2 to see how they work. If good are you interested in going to a 16" wheel?:D
 
Thought I would update it. Car has been sitting in storage since last fall. Hopefully I will get it back out this spring and start driving it again!
 
Holy crap I havnt updated this in a while.

I have been dailying this thing on and off this summer since June. Gets like 22 mpg at 73 with the AC on. I also changed my speedo drive gear and did the governor mod so the 2004r is much more driveable. It doesn't like to downshift into 2nd or 3rd from OD really fast like i want but it does shift a good RPM's now.

I was at a swap meet today and stumbled on a 301 turbo and plenum. Havn't decided if I want to swap it or hoard it.
 
I got my lockup TC working finally also. I had issues at first getting the lockup to work right on a turbo car without the computer. It would go into 4th an lockup right away since it had a 4th gear pressure switch in the valvebody. Problem is it would overload the engine and unlock from the loss in vac on the TCI switch and make boost, way overpower and drop boost, lock the TC and overload again really fast, it would cycle on off like 15 times and I had to stomp on it to get it to speed fast or let off too much.

I bought a 12 buck timer on amazon and wired it in series after the vac switch, I have like 8 second delay which is pretty good to let the car snap into 4th and get to speed before it locked.

Cosmetic not much. The clear I did in my garage 6 years ago is starting to haze and lift goofy in spots so it might get resprayed when I get a garage built when I buy a house since I have a full time job and am not on the college budget. I am in Iowa these days, left the tundra of western MN/ND haha.

Parked by a GNX at what was carcraft in st. paul this summer.

 
How are you keeping your center caps on? I got a set of those caps for my turbines amd the first corner I made they went bouncing down the road. :p
 
Yeah its still carb turbo. I bought the whole intercooled setup cheap and am probably going to put it in something but put it on a semi built 4.1.

I have a lead on a 4.1 block so i might pick that up over winter and slowly accumulate parts. Before I bought my 2+2 I was working on a deal for a buick century wagon. Its still kinda for sale on the down low so if I ever want it I can work something out. I am tempted to put the drawthrough setup from my cutlass in the century wagon and do a fun 10 sec build for the cutlass with the intercooled 4.1.

That means 3 g bodies simultaneously though....
 
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