Tried unplugging the mas, didnt work...
gn died on me
- Thread starter TrAb
- Start date
Tried unplugging the mas, didnt work...
Bruce Urie
The Ventures,CCR forever!
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
Sorry, I couldn't help myself. Glad you have a sense of humor. These days it helps. You're alright.:wink: The Wally Weasle post you did was the best ball busting laugh I have ever had in a long time.:biggrin:
Bruce '87 Grand National
I checked for spark again and yes i am now getting spark. So it seems that i fixed one issue. Like i said the car was when it did start right after i replaced the crank sensor. It was blowing out black soot, then about 30 seconds later it starter to blow like greyish smoke before it died.
Evans Ward
Love those LC2/ Y56 cars!
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I'm thinking KevinB may be right. I had an experience about a year ago when my crank sensor failed/ broke a few miles from home. It put the car in batch fire/ limp home mode and ran rough like it was missing on a cylinder. After replacing the crank sensor, I checked the plugs and all were fouled. Pull them and take a look. Hoping that's your problem. Think I saw from the other site that you don't have a scanmaster or code reader, so you'll want to disconnect the orange ECM wire by battery to clear codes just in case one is there.
22 is a low throttle position sensor reading. You really need a scan tool or at least a multimeter to make sure it works correctly and is set to spec. It should be about .42 at idle and 4.85 or so at WOT. To set off a code, it must be set below .2V at idle or it is bad causing the ECM to use a default value for it. I'd bet your engine is idling pretty high.
Yeah i tried reading the volts from the dark blue wire running to the TPS but i couldent get a reading from it. Think i need to replace the TPS
Yeah i tried reading the volts from the dark blue wire running to the TPS but i couldent get a reading from it. Think i need to replace the TPS
The dark blue wire carries the signal from the TPS sensor to the ECM, so it sure sounds like your sensor is bad. Your ECM has to be defaulting to the 2.6V value for the TPS which will cause it to idle high and run like crap.
You might want to probe the gray wire to see if you are getting ~5v of juice there with the key on. If you are getting juice at the sensor and nothing out on the blue wire, you found your culprit.
The dark blue wire carries the signal from the TPS sensor to the ECM, so it sure sounds like your sensor is bad. Your ECM has to be defaulting to the 2.6V value for the TPS which will cause it to idle high and run like crap.
You might want to probe the gray wire to see if you are getting ~5v of juice there with the key on.
Ok ill probably replace it, but even if its bad would it cause my car to not start?
Aight well autozone has them for 30 bucks so im gonna replace it anyways...
Well i want to replace mine with the LS1 maf anyways. What does the translator do exactly? Does it just make it plug in play or is there going to be some configuring for me to do? Thanks
Yes. Plug and play. The translator is well worth the money. It plugs into the computer and so you don't have to cut any wires. You'd be splicing a bunch of small wires lying on your back on the passenger floor otherwise. It also allows you to simply unplug it and go back to stock if you ever want to.
Yeah i have a friend who will give me his grantelli LS1 maf for free, but the translator cost so much...
Hey guys sorry for the delay. Got out there finally on my day off and got alittle done. Found out that i still have the nylon on my crank gear, just two NYLON teeth broke off. Not the metal part... So i checked the timing and its good. Took the oil pan off and the screen isnt acually all that dirty, but i cleaned EVERYTHING in the engine bay while i have this stuff off. Looking alot better in there now. So now whats next?
