Getting to hot !

I'ma fix the oil leak and see what happens.Could that be the cause?

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215°! Isn't that damaging hot? Is that a normal temp for tb ?

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Any automobile oil is made to be thick when hot, and thin when cold, like 20W-50?:confused:

I have dealt with synthetic oils in Buicks before you were alive, and in all the many I have owned and serviced, ALL of them have better oil pressure with regular oil than synthetic. First you need to understand the GN turbo V-6 engine technology and design is from the 1960's.

You may be quoting some info you have found, but many owners here have also changed from synthetic oil, and all have seen an improvement in oil pressure, cold and hot, and less leaks as well. :)


convertional oil 15x40 10w30 doesnt mean the oil is 10 when cold and 40 when hot .. put oil in the freezer and it will get realy thick and if you ever drained your oil when hot its like water. the 10w or 15 w is a different scale. from the 30 or 40 .

i found the oil pressure to be higher when hot and have since changed to synthetic.
synthetic oil is more expensive for a reason not because its shitty but because its better.

and don't think synthetic blend is same as synthetic

1960's design and 2010 design is very similar.
the connection rod clearances are the same as my 2005 subaru engine as the buick. there isn't any magic about it.
 
215°! Isn't that damaging hot? Is that a normal temp for tb ?

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had mine up to 230 before the header wrap and such. getting that hot is one thing having that engine at full load at that temp for a long time that would be bad.
 
conventional oil 15x40 10w30 doesn't mean the oil is 10 when cold and 40 when hot .. put oil in the freezer and it will get realy thick and if you ever drained your oil when hot its like water. the 10w or 15 w is a different scale. from the 30 or 40 .

What a multi-grade oil does, is it's a base weight oil (10W) with additives to make it behave more like a thicker (40) weight oil when the temperature is higher. This way at lower temps it still flows just like the base weight. A 0W30 oil will be a base oil of 0 (extremely thin) so it will flow at very low temps but at higher operating temps it will behave like a 30 weight oil. It will never be a 30 weight oil but it's characteristics behave like one.;)
 
What a multi-grade oil does, is it's a base weight oil (10W) with additives to make it behave more like a thicker (40) weight oil when the temperature is higher. This way at lower temps it still flows just like the base weight. A 0W30 oil will be a base oil of 0 (extremely thin) so it will flow at very low temps but at higher operating temps it will behave like a 30 weight oil. It will never be a 30 weight oil but it's characteristics behave like one.;)


what do you mean behave like 30 ? and what characteristics is there ?
 
what do you mean behave like 30 ? and what characteristics is there ?

Just what I stated. It won't be thick but if you've ever heated oil or sprayed it on a heated part (like spraying WD-40 on a torch heated part) it will run off fairly easily. When the additives are in it then it will not flow as easily at higher temps. like it was water.;)
 
So what is the normal temp?

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well this is open to much discussion

i would say 180-210 is fine if the engine clearances are correct and the engine is running correct.

but i have had rings touch at 180 because of running lean and less than ideal timing.

and i think nascar run like 230-250 deg but i could be way off. those could have larger clearances that will tighten up when those temps are reached.
 
Just what I stated. It won't be thick but if you've ever heated oil or sprayed it on a heated part (like spraying WD-40 on a torch heated part) it will run off fairly easily. When the additives are in it then it will not flow as easily at higher temps. like it was water.;)


well viscosity is the resistance to flow ..
 
well we should get some one to do back to back tests of synthetic vs conventional oils because right now its 50-50 :p

oh and considering i'm running 0w 20 synthetic and i haven't driven over my crank shaft yet cant be that bad!
 
I'ma fix the oil leak and see what happens.Could that be the cause?

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you mean an external oil leak? like its dripping down the outside of the block?
no that would not cause low oil pressure
the oil pump generally pumps 1 gallon a min at idle ( i dont know the specs for a buick v6 but it would be similar)
so for an oil leak to affect that it would have to be almost a pint or quart a minute! leaking down your block.

likely cause is crank shaft bearings and or cam and or turbo and or the oil pump and or its bypass.
to fix it probably needs a rebuild
but that being said not much you can do other than run a thicker oil and take care of it. the car could last another 50 000 or 100 000 miles like that.
 
It's more than a viscosity modifier that's used. The actual viscosity is the same.


yes exactly..

so a 10w 30 and a -30 oil at a certain temperature should theoretically have the same viscosity.
and that goes for a 5w 30 synthetic also
 
Mine would run as hot as 210 last summer with original radiator and fan, and I have a slic. I back flushed the cooling system, filled up about four 5 gal buckets of brown water before I had clear water flowing! Put in an alradco radiator and dual spal fans and it's now running 180 this summer. A little warmer in traffic with the a/c on. Never got over 170 through the winter and spring months. With a fmic I would think cooling system upgrades are definitely necessary!
 
Fix the oil leak first, then for the temp issues I would suspect it to be your single fan. 1 fan will have a hard time cooling with a front mount installed. The only single fans that I know of that provide adequate cooling are the mark viii/ ford fans. You will need to verify what type of fan you have and then decide to either go with the mark viii or a dual fan setup. If you go with dual fans, you have make sure they both run at the same time. Rmi-25 and distiller water for summer months and you're set.


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