Frame swap
- Thread starter dank GN
- Start date
Since the frame's out you should also brace the rear LCA mount so it's less likely to rip off.
These are the ones i made for mine. You just need to make a template that will fit up to the mount and weld in place to make it more solid.
If you really want to go to the extreme then you can cut the top of the front cross member out like I did, and lower it 3/8". 
This gets rid of one of the crash zones and keeps side flex down, but it's not for someone that hasn't done this type of work before.
These are the ones i made for mine. You just need to make a template that will fit up to the mount and weld in place to make it more solid. If you really want to go to the extreme then you can cut the top of the front cross member out like I did, and lower it 3/8".
This gets rid of one of the crash zones and keeps side flex down, but it's not for someone that hasn't done this type of work before.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
The shock tower plates are for future roll cage mount points...[If the LS makes enuf steam, that is!]
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Maybe, determine where the main hoop is going to sit on the frame, and make sure the open side of the frame is boxed. [Mine is 100% boxed, so It's good to go.]
Also, ask the chassis guy, [if you are having it done], what he would like to work with.
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2009
Thanks Chuck I already have a pre bent 10point cage I received in a trade so I will be putting it in and at least tack it all then have someone with better welding skills finish it . I'm prob just going to start with the 6 point then step it up if needed .
ONE_QUIK_6
Still lookn' for a recipe
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2001
Who makes this kit? Looks like it would save a lot of time
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2009
Not sure to tell you the truth I need to bust it out and get some surface rust off it . I did start to re weld the factory welds View attachment 249775
ONE_QUIK_6
Still lookn' for a recipe
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2001
Do you tree weld the seams because they are weak, our the factory did am OK job? Thanks for the reply
ONE_QUIK_6
Still lookn' for a recipe
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2001
Sorry, not tree weld, reweld
That kit will add more weight and stiffness than is needed for the street or track. The chassis needs flexibility to work right and to brace it as much as a lowrider does will reduce traction and ride comfort. Mine has just enough movement to allow it to move and keep traction.
The middle section I welded in completely. I used .120 thick metal and it was salvage, not exactly new. It gives me just enough movement to give good traction and there's a few other tricks that I haven't posted, and only a few members and friends know what I've done.
The shock tower plates are for future roll cage mount points...[If the LS makes enuf steam, that is!]
I was wondering about those. Good idea! I'm not sure I wouldn't carry the rear bars further back. But you've given me something else to consider. Thanks Chuck.
I'd box the whole thing and be done with it. You'll probably have to re-run the brake and fuel lines either way.
That's not a frame reinforcement kit. It's a whole frame that needs to be welded up. Good luck installing that kit without warping the frame...
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