Found exhaust leak

[Marc87GN]

I finally have the car running well, but then I hear alot of noise in the front. I sprayed the engine with carb cleaner and didn't find any vacuum leaks. I did find a rip in the inlet tube after the MAF. The big mouth cold air kit coming will take car of that. I also cleaned the MAF and found the previous owner removed the screens.

Anyway, I removed the front left wheel( at the suggest of a few for header removal) and removed the header. I found 2 bolts were very loose and the gasket burned at cyl#1 and burned through at Cyl # 5. The normal area where it cracks between 3/5 was welded already.

I would like to install studs and locking nuts with a new gasket. I have the gasket(s), but where can I get the studs(ARP) or does anyone have any suggestions that they have tried where the headers did not leak for a while or ever again?

 

[gteatr6]

Do not use the gaskets. These cars never came with exhaust gaskets. Use ultra copper high temp sealant. I tried to use gaskets back in 90 when I bought my first t-type. Guess what, they burnt up. When you use the gasket sealer, make sure you let it cure as long as possible. Never had a problem this way.

 

[Nick Micale]

Originally posted by Marc87GN
[B.............................................................................................
I would like to install studs and locking nuts with a new gasket. I have the gasket(s), but where can I get the studs(ARP) or does anyone have any suggestions that they have tried where the headers did not leak for a while or ever again? [/B]

Go to a hardware store and get some 3/8" studs. They have various lengths that work fine. I use lock washers and Felpro 1400 gaskets and they will seal great for a long while. When done this way, I have even re-used the Felpro gaskets.

After a heat cycle or 2, go back and make sure all nuts are still tight before high boost.

 

[Marc87GN]

Thanks for the help guys. It was a little tricky getting the header out because of various brackets attached to it. I cleaned the head and the header surface with a razer blade and carb cleaner. I put on a thin coat of Ultra Copper High Temp sealant and I will wait until later today to install the header. I used it once before with my mustang and it worked great for years.

Tonight, I will see what is going on with the other side. This side clearly was in bad shape. The top bolts for cyl #1 & #3 I spun off with my hand and never used the ratchet. I wonder if this was causing my lean condition at certain rpms and load and the BLMs to be @ 150 at idle and 132-128 above 1000 roms.

 

[Marc87GN]

Passenger header (manifold) is back on. It's easy after you do it once. Driverside bolts don't budge and they didn't install a gasket on that side so it's ok. I'm going to wait about an hour then start it up. I used thread lock blue (Medium strength) in the bolts so I hope they don't back out again. I'm ordering ARP studs and nuts to have on hand for the next time. Thanks for your help.

Marc

 

[FRANKIEz28]

Whats The Update??

 

[Marc87GN]

Sorry man,

Everything worked out well. The left side is tight as a drum and now I have to work on the elbow on the turbine housing between today and tomorrow. I would have just bought a downpipe, but the previous owner cut all of the flanges and welded the system. I also noticed the trans mount needs to be replace while installing the crossover pipe.

 

[FRANKIEz28]

Congrats!!