Engine was running OK, driving then the wife fired it up and it has been dead since:(

[Rowdy45466]

Well it was runing well and then my 87 was parked for a few days and it turned off cold in the 20s and my wife needed to take it and she said it fired and died twice.

It has not made a pop or fart, nothing. No spark. Of course the plugs were damp with gas. Tried another set nothing. Swapped the ignition module on the hint from a mechanic friend that that might be it, nope. So there is no, nadda spark. Igntion coil pack is new from ESP. Wires also new. Plugs were Champions but I stuck a set of AC Delco rapid fires in. Maf is stock. I have a whole LSx GM one to put in but unless I know it is that for sure I want to know whats what before I change a bunch of stuff to the MAF translator plus Gen II as well as a Innovate Motor Sports On-Line Store

Wide band kit to realy dial this in.

It was running a new turbo tweak chip for the 60lb injectors from him as well. Ran fine. New fuel pump and hot wire kit.

New idle control TPS booster from Caspers/Poston. Ran with it as well. It has a new Scanmaster working as well. New fan re-lays. Also working. Decent oil pressure. NEw fuel filter, fresh oil with filter, the 15/40 rotellat for now.
New O2 sensor.
Checked the ignition related fuses i could find under the dash all OK. ECM had been tested as fine. NEw better CCA battery. Stock starter slow spinner.

Where should I look next? There are several plugs not hooked up in the engine harness. It ran that way. So unless something changed???

What about the fuseable links? Could one of these have fried or?

Cam sensor or crank? Can I borrow a hand held scanner and plug into it for diagnostics?

Should I swap the MAF now? Where to first. Any one know any "tuners" in east central IL? Or a really good diagnostic mechanic. I like my guy but it may not be his thing with the mods on it.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[nailheadpowered]

not sure were to start with this but first thing first, Never let the wife near the cars atleast that is what i do that way i can only blame myself for any issues

for the crank sensor you can lay under you car and see if it is bolted up still or loose and check for clearance, if you have a cam sensor tool you can put that on and turn the engine over to see if the timing is correct. Also find out what the unplugged plugs are for, really shouldn't have anything unplugged as they didn't put extra plugs on these cars so they go somewhere. and also check the orange wire by the battery make sure it didn't come unplugged some how and good luck.

 

[Rowdy45466]

Ok these are the wires that I know are unhooked. At least I think these are correct to the diagram I have.

It has no fuel vapor canistor. Previous owners ditched it. There is nothing for it to plug into.

Cruise was pulled off the car open plug.

On the passenger valve cover there is what I think is the waste gate solenoid. No vacuum lines into it just the plug.

I'm not sure if it even has the boost lines hooked up on it. Looking at it from the car.
I know I don't see the little Y.

There is a red plug with a few wires near the cooling fan not hooked up and no-where to go.

I believe the fuel pump test wirehas something tapped into the end of it. There is another open plug in right there which I can't remeber the function but it seemed to also be a test area to tap into.

There is a wire / plug I do not know where it goes. I also couldn't find it in the wiring diagram I was looking at. It is very near the 02 sensor. It is a large thick plug that takes only a few wires and it looks like it has been stuck to close to the down/up pipes and it has melted a chunk or it. It is like 1 1/2" around diameter and large rubber area on it.

There may be more but for now this is what I had made notes of.

I'll try the fuses again later.

It did run with the coil pac, I could swap it off and try the old one. Should I?

How do I identify the codes from the scanmaster if it is not running?

 

[nailheadpowered]

scroll through the scanmaster and find the codes section and also the large plug by the dp sounds like the oil pressure plug they also get torched, as for the fuel one i would look at that setup closely and the red plug i would think it had to do with the vapor canister sensor? good luck.

 

[Rowdy45466]

I was thinking about borrowing a code scan tool from the local shop.

It did have a blown fuse. Put new one in. I think it fired once.

Now the strange part is that it has no oil sending unit.

Mechanical gauge yes the sending unit has what 3 wires and a bit rubber plug that connects to the sending unit.

The ecm or other is suppossed to kill the ign/injectors if no oil pressure after a few seconds right?

 

[bison]

I was thinking about borrowing a code scan tool from the local shop.

It did have a blown fuse. Put new one in. I think it fired once.

Now the strange part is that it has no oil sending unit.

Mechanical gauge yes the sending unit has what 3 wires and a bit rubber plug that connects to the sending unit.

The ecm or other is suppossed to kill the ign/injectors if no oil pressure after a few seconds right?

The oil sending unit connector may be shorted to ground. I had this happen to me. The switch will bypass the fuel pump relay to allow starting if the relay fails.

 

[turbo39151]

Was the fuse that blew the CCCI fuse? If it is the CCCI fuse (10 amp). It will ahev to do with the Ignition module and coil pack. If these are new and or good, pull the harness to the module and take the tape off the wiring. You'll likely find a short from a frayed wire that has rubbed raw...

 

[Rowdy45466]

It was the CCCI fuse.

Coil pack 2-3 months old. was working. It was new from ESP. Module is new generic parts house brand but it made no difference.

Maybe I should put the old coil pack back on it?

So whick set or plug goes from or to the CCCI?

 

[turbo39151]

There is a plug on the right side of the modue (the wire harness). Disconect it from the modue (unplug the battery first)... Then open the plastice cover and remove some of the black wrapping to as to expose all of the wires. You will most likley find that there is a frayed wire that needs repair. This wire is grounding and causing a short hence blowing the fuse. Once you fix this, you should be in business. You can actually use a larger fuse if you need to start the ar and move it but it's not recommended to do so ( for driving around) as you could damage something.

 

[Rowdy45466]

The Noid light flashed while cranking so injectors are being triggered.

I even tried my back up ECM and old chip nothing.

The wires that go into a big plug that is for the i9gnition module tested with only about 3-4 wires hot.

 

[Rowdy45466]

I seems to have been the ESC module. Also the crank sensor.

I did check out my old coil packs and ignition module.

The new ign module is going back. I may send the new coil packs off to be checked.

Now to install the MAF translator pro and LS1/2/6 MAF.