Engine Rebuild - Forged Piston and Stock Cam recommendations?

J

jawort0

Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2009
I am in the process of rebuilding my LC2 and wanted to get everyone's recommendation for Forged Pistons and a Stock Equivalent (or slightly more aggressive) camshaft, ie hydraulic flat tappet.

I would like the car to be able to run in the high 11's, but do not really intend to race the car, but want to do the rebuild right the first time so the engine lasts a long time and is capable of 20ish psi. My main intent is to have a nice 87 Turbo Regal that is capable of going high 11's if I so choose.

Thanks, Joe
 
Hey Joe,
I'm going through the exact same situation, I'm having my engine rebuilt, not doing it myself. I don't intend on racing it and would like a stronger motor. After doing a lot of asking around and surfing the net I talked to the mechanic.
He thought upgrading the cam is a good idea maybe a 206/206 or 208 and roller instead of hydraulic but keep oil changes and add oil additive on time.
Forged pistons for sure. Stronger rods. He didn't think springs need replacing but I'm going to request they do; at least new stock springs. Also replace the timing cover.
I'll also probably do bigger stock set up intercooler.
Anyways, that's my two cents. Hope we get more hits, I'd like to know what others think.
Thanks. Jesse
 
Smallish roller, forged pistons, stock rods, stock crank stock heads, and no detonation will easily get you to your stated goal. The stock stuff is easily capable of getting you there and the only reason I say roller is the peace of mind of your flat tappet cam not going flat. Ported heads would be a big plus for spool and ability to make the power to get to the 11's more easily but are not necessary. As for the "goal of 20 psi" just run race gas or alky injection. No biggie there. I ran 25 psi on my stock block/turbo with no detonation with alky. If your current engine is fine don't mess with it.
 
wickedtt said:
Roller 206/206 and TRW forged pistons, stock rods are fine.
Click to expand...

Yep, what he said. Unless you just want to spend $ on aftermarket rods, JE pistons, etc, etc, etc, keep it simple.

If you have extra $ to spend, spend it on a roller cam to help the engine last a long time. Before spending money on the new cover, check it out. If not ate up by the cam button, and if the oil pump gears didn't eat it up, you can probably save $150 by reusing it. Get the TA performance oil pump shims (gaskets of different thicknesses to set the clearance right. helps oil PSI tremendously).

Reuse:
block
crank
rods
front cover
etc

Replace:
pistons
rings
bearings
cam
valvesprings
timing set

Get a better set of valvesprings, especially if you go roller or a larger cam in general. The stock ones wear out, and lose tension.

If you don't want to spend the $ on a roller cam, the Edelbrock 204/214 from Summit is a good choice. I have never put anything extra in my oil and have not had a lobe issue at all. Broke it in 6-7 years ago with Rotella diesel oil, but haven't put any additives in there since. I know I should, but so far so good. (knock on wood...)
 
You may have a problem finding a new set of TRW forged pistons?

They have been out of production for a while, but other brands have an off-the-shelf forged piston for the V-6 turbo application.
 
Pistons: Diamonds or JEs
Rods: Recondition rods with new bolts
Crank: Forged would be nice but not neccessary
Cam: 206/206 roller (iron heads). IMHO: stay away from flat tappet.
Mains: Billet centers. I like to convert to main studs.

There's the basic for the hard parts. Don't forget the oil mods. And proper machine work.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
Unless there is something wrong with the engine at this time I think it's foolish to spend $ on pistons and rebuilding if you're only looking for high 11 sec power.
 
I have no problem rebuilding with a new set of Hyper pistons on a build that is stock to mild bolt ons,balance it and freshen it.

We have made great,reliable power with a good condtion stock bottom end. Some people do not have and cannot afford to go all out.

Save you money and put the small roller cam in with sealed power hyper pistons,have it balanced and tuned correctly and it will give you years of reliable service.

I have a combo I put together for a local guy that has been running 11.20 with a STOCK UNOPENED short block. It only has upgraded springs.

The car run 26-27#s on pump gas/alky with a 6262 turbo and has been running for over 3 years of track rentals and street beating without issue.

If you wanna run hard into to bottom 10s I would add the forged pistons.
 
Sold on Forged Pistons - Not Sold on Roller Cam

I am sold on the forged pistons. I can get a set of 6 for about $300.

What I am not sold on is the roller cam. The lowest roller cam is over $700. A flat hydraulic cam is about $200. How can I justify a $500 hit to my $2k budget when I am looking for a slightly improved stock rebuild. I am willing to consider, but the additional cost does not seem justified.

Besides the risk of a flat cam lobe, what are the failure modes of the aftermarket hydraulic flat tappet cams available?

Thanks, Joe
 
you've pretty much summed up the main risk of a flat tappet. It could kill your engine. Lots of guys doing it successfully though. As far as your budget goes how rock solid is 2k? I only ask because if you want everything done "right" 2k probably isn't going to cut it.
 
blahh.. i ran 10.51 with stock longblock. cam and all. I would do the pistons, just drop in a small flat tappet cam. if you want to spend more money later get some higher ratio rockers that will "fool" the motor into thinking it has a roller cam with the faster ramp rate. just remember we were running 10's with the parts they made in the late 80's early 90's yes roller is nice. I would not put it over good pistons though. Rather a cam swap then a shovel to get my pistons out of the oil pan. :cool:
 
Which Hydraulic Flat Cam?

If I decide to go hydraulic flat cam, which one is better for the slightly better than stock rebuild; 206/206 or 204/214?

Thanks, Joe
 
depends if you want the instant grunt feel for daily driving or more peak power. if it were my car and you plan on porting the heads i would do a 212/212 but 206/206 is a great little cam for your goals
 
Nick Micale said:
You may have a problem finding a new set of TRW forged pistons?

They have been out of production for a while, but other brands have an off-the-shelf forged piston for the V-6 turbo application.
Click to expand...

Didn't know that Nick. Glad I've got 2 sets of old stock sitting on the shelf now.:biggrin:

jawort0 said:
If I decide to go hydraulic flat cam, which one is better for the slightly better than stock rebuild; 206/206 or 204/214?

Thanks, Joe
Click to expand...

Honestly, the 204/214 cam will wake it up better and do the one thing that a mild build needs. With the more duration and higher lift on the exhaust it will load the turbo much faster than a cam with equal duration on intake and exhaust. I did quite a bit of research before I bought the cam myself and it will do 11's without any issue and help spool the turbo at a lower RPM than a cam with equal duration.

I know I will get slammed by someone but the way the cam works has been documented and for lower power like 11's it will be more than adequite. You can find one on evilbay for less than $200 and if you need a link to one I'd be more than happy to provide it.:smile:
 
charlief1 said:
Didn't know that Nick. Glad I've got 2 sets of old stock sitting on the shelf now.:biggrin:



Honestly, the 204/214 cam will wake it up better and do the one thing that a mild build needs. With the more duration and higher lift on the exhaust it will load the turbo much faster than a cam with equal duration on intake and exhaust. I did quite a bit of research before I bought the cam myself and it will do 11's without any issue and help spool the turbo at a lower RPM than a cam with equal duration.

I know I will get slammed by someone but the way the cam works has been documented and for lower power like 11's it will be more than adequite. You can find one on evilbay for less than $200 and if you need a link to one I'd be more than happy to provide it.:smile:
Click to expand...

Charlie, you better save those pistons, they may be worth more money some day. NOS? :biggrin:

Here is a link to the Edelbrock 204/214 from Summit. $145, not bad!

Edelbrock 5487 - Edelbrock Performer-Plus Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
 
Also, if you do flat tappet, just break it in correctly, use ZDDP and/or good oil, don't "over spring" it (keep spring pressure correct) and it will more than likely be fine. I have I think 6-7 years on mine, and 90% of the time it is my daily. I am very hard on stuff, and should probably change my oil more often as much time as it sees WOT, but it has been good. No additives either, which I probably should start, or will with another flat tappet if I use one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Mr URL
  • Locked
3.8 stock block rebuild
5 6 7
Replies
123
Views
12K
Chuck Leeper
Chuck Leeper
X
Need rec on new cam and turbo
Replies
11
Views
2K
TType85
TType85
TireFryer
New engine
2
Replies
28
Views
8K
Boostian
Boostian
M
Big performance upgrades advice
2
Replies
33
Views
6K
TIMINATOR
TIMINATOR
C
Complete Engine Rebuild Parts/Kit for mostly stock - 1/2 price
Replies
2
Views
1K
CliffyC
C
Top