engine rebuild costs?
- Thread starter allious
- Start date
Mine was around 1800-2,000 bucks if I wanted a basic tear down and complete rebuild. That included disassembly and reassembly I believe. Check out this price list for an example
http://www.automotivemachine.net/machinelist4inch.jpg
http://www.automotivemachine.net/machinelist4inch.jpg
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2001
I just finished rebuilding my engine and I paid $431 to machine the bottom end, plus parts and $750 to do the cylinder heads. The machine work for the bottom end included hot tank, hone, gaskets, main,rod and cam bearings, install core plugs and cam bearings, resize rods, micropolish crank and verify clearances. Machine work for cylinder heads includes hot tank, 3 angle valve job, new stainless swirl-polished valves, bronze inserts, setting stem height and spring height, and a 30 degree cut on the face of the valves behind the 45 degree face. This is the cost for basic machine work only. I assembled and re-verified clearances.
Don't cheap out or you'll pay for it later. $431 for the machine work for the bottom end sounds way cheap. Getting a good deal is one thing but how many short cuts were taken?
If you are re-building, why not add the center billet caps? You are going to add them them, then the block needs to be line-honed.
Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
If you are re-building, why not add the center billet caps? You are going to add them them, then the block needs to be line-honed.
Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2001
The actual machine work for the things listed was $225. The additional amount is for Federal Mogul 107m main bearings, the wider Sealed Power rod bearings, Durabond dry film lube babbet cam bearings. I reused my cam, the block remained standard. I could have added the billet main caps, but my set-up isn't much more than stock. I didn't need to purchase pistons and the rods were resized 45000 miles ago. I paid 1800 for my first engine only to find out the machine 1st machine shop hung three rods wrong and the all the cam bearings wiped, the 3 rod bearings hit the copper in the tri-metal, the valve seats on the 3 angle valve job did not look as well defined as with this new valve job, the valve stem height was all over the map and so were the installed height of the springs. I re-assembled the engine (with the help of a factory service manual), I know what was done and I checked and re-checked the specification. Machine work these days are not a mystery, machine shops have specs and they machine to spec. I made some specific request during the machining process and those items were performed as requested. Yes the price is inexpensive, but I was quoted jobber for parts and labor. I have dealt with the two particular machinst for over 20 years. My question to you is do you trust your machinst to do the things that are required or that you require, no matter what the price is? Because I do, I've already made the mistake of going with a brand name machinst and it didn't turn out the way I hoped it would, so I went back to basics and to who I know.
Cost me a total of 2500 dollars. Thats with completely rebuiilding the motor with all new parts, only stock pieces left are the rods and block. I bought the new Eagle crank, TRW forged pistons, comp cam, all new bolts and so on. Cost alot for machine work because I had to have metal cut out of the crank to get it balanced.
1. You get what you pay for. Good parts cost money.
2. Do it right the first time, or you'll be doing it a second.
Approx $2,500-3,000 would not sound unreasonable for me (cam, pistons, ARP fasteners, valve job, etc.). Could be more, could be less. Much less and I'd be suspicious of the reason(s) why.
Good luck. You are about to embark on one hell of a learning experience!
2. Do it right the first time, or you'll be doing it a second.
Approx $2,500-3,000 would not sound unreasonable for me (cam, pistons, ARP fasteners, valve job, etc.). Could be more, could be less. Much less and I'd be suspicious of the reason(s) why.
Good luck. You are about to embark on one hell of a learning experience!
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2001
Actually, I have a different approach on this also and it's just an opinion. When I assemble an engine (since this is not an everyday occurrence), I lock myself in the garage and I don't let anyone bother me. I don't want to be distracted while I'm doing measurements and/or assembly. Too many people want to get their hand greasy with you and help, but the distraction may cause you to overlook a critical step. My wife doesn't even come into the garage to inquire. I set a timer each evening to let me know it's time to clean up and get some rest, the telephone is ignored and so are other communication devices. I let a buddy help with the assembly of a SBC (twice, so stupid me) and the first time the a rod bearing spun and I lost an engine in 20 minutes. The next time he wanted to advance cam timing 6 degrees ( on a 383, as if I did'nt have enough low end torque) and it narrowed the power band so much, I spent time re-setting the cam timing (it now runs like raped ape, will bake the tires until I let off). So learn the things you need to do the assembly your self and don't let anyone interfere. I'll get off the soapbox now
Tony
Did you buy a new balancer and flywheel due to the Eagle crank being internal balance?
Just wondering.
Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
Heres the story I got a 8000 dollar loan for the car, car developed a tick so I pulled the engine ( 1 week later ) found out all 6 pistons were cracked the crank was vibrating back and forth like half an inch or something, the cam had two wiped lobes, and various other things. So i got yet another loan for 2000, that was just to buy the parts so I ran into a problem I wouldnt have had enough money to buy the wheel and balancer so I compromised and had metal cut out of it. By the way im 17 so I did need someone who actually knew what they were doing to put the motor together. I just helped and observed so I could learn as much as possible.
) found out all 6 pistons were cracked the crank was vibrating back and forth like half an inch or something, the cam had two wiped lobes, and various other things. So i got yet another loan for 2000, that was just to buy the parts so I ran into a problem I wouldnt have had enough money to buy the wheel and balancer so I compromised and had metal cut out of it. By the way im 17 so I did need someone who actually knew what they were doing to put the motor together. I just helped and observed so I could learn as much as possible.Don't think you can get it all done for that, here's why.....
Here’s where I’m at and it’s not done yet. This by no means is a race build-up, I’m just trying to do a stock-build right.
Machine work so far,
Rods $80 - press old pins out, magnafluxed, shotpeened and I polished.
Machine Block $800 - that included, tanked, line hone, decked, bored and torque plate honed cylinders to 30 over, resize rods and fitted rod bolts, install cam bearings.
Balancing Assembly $200
Groove welded on Billet cam front main $95
Heads still there, so who knows.
Parts List;
BHJ Torque Plate hone $280. Machine shop didn’t have one
Flex Plate $75
Forged pistons $300
Plasma Molly Rings $100
New GM Front cover $100
New Oil pump $20
TA Cam Bearings $75
FM Main Bearings $75
Vandervell Rod Bearings $20- I got a good deal
ATR Roller Cam Kit $900
New Freeze plugs $12
GM Gasket kit $130
ARP Main Studs $43
ARP Rod Bolts $75
ARP Head Studs $90
Manly Valves and Retainers $300
HD Rocker Shafts $80
Standard Turbo Crank $75 - I got a great deal! No machine work needed.
Standard 109 Block $100 - Another good deal
Paints and Cleaners $50
Totals out to 4k and I’m sure I forgot some things. And I’m still looking about $800 more in the heads.
Dan Thompson
New Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Dan Thompson
New Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
i got on from advanced auto and for the motor it was 1400 but i got every sensor, gasket. line, plugs, oil filter, plug wires even a new cam sensor when i say i got everything for this motor im not joking the total cost was 2500 plus it has a 18 month unlimited milage warranty
How much is it to bring it to a shop (performance shop), have the engine rebuilt, but only changing to forged pistons & some other upgrades and then driving it home? Unfortunately, I wouldn't have alot of time to dedicate to completely rebuild it myself or time to do it over if I make a mistake.
I don't plan on racing the car at the track. I did that for a few years and would rather put the money into my house.
Who would you recommend in the Northeast to perform a complete shortblock rebuild, installed and approx. dollars?
Worse case, I could buy a complete shortblock and just swap/replace parts and then re-install the longblock.
I don't plan on racing the car at the track. I did that for a few years and would rather put the money into my house.
Who would you recommend in the Northeast to perform a complete shortblock rebuild, installed and approx. dollars?
Worse case, I could buy a complete shortblock and just swap/replace parts and then re-install the longblock.
