Engine Oil

My oil recipe in my new RPE stroker...
6 qts BRAD PENN High Perf 10w-40
1/2-1 qt Lucas Oil Stabilizer
1 ZDDP
Engine holds 32psi oil pressure Hot-at idle.
 
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Had to do it.

See what the engine likes. WOT oil ~65 psi.
 
Heavier weight oil can withstand more fuel contamination while still maintaining its viscosity which is important in hard driving and racing applications. Combine that with the fact that we run richer than most and a lot of us are using alcohol injection, this will thin out the oil at a much faster rate. With Earl Browns timing cover I have seen improvements in oil psi across the board, and in the colder months before and after the season where im mostly crusing my car I switch to a lighter weight oil and everything is happy. If your sole basis for high viscosity oil is the pressure then you have other issues.
 
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So I'm almost at the point of firing up my fresh build, It's all roller and I'm wondering if I should use 10-30 Mobil one?

In all my years on boards like this, and the "lists" or chat rooms of old, I have never heard of a valid reason from anyone when I asked what is the advantage of Mobil I or any synthetic oil over regular oil?

There are a few valid reasons NOT to use it in our turbo performance engines which were designed 50 years ago and still use materials and clearances from that era, and the additional cost is only one of the reasons among the few technical ones.

This is NOT your father's Oldsmobile! :)
 
Odd. I use Mobil1 because a gallon of it is $27 from Wal*Star mart. Seems pretty cheep to me.

I've been running it for decades and I've never had the first oil related problem. Personally, in real world use, I think one full synthetic is just as good as any other (barring specialty needs of course. I don't drive a top fuel dragster that runs benzine on the street).

With the extra gas mileage from full synthetic, you can't afford to run dino oil with current gas prices.
 
This question is like poking a hornets nest. When I ask a similer question, I think it went on for 4 or 5 pages. ( Listen to Earl )
 
Well!!?? Whats the verdict. Whats your choice in oil. Every one has a prefrence obviously. my 2 cents, go with your builders recommendations and go from there. Its just a motor. :)
 
The "worst" oil you can buy today is most likely better than the "best" oil you could get in '87. It kills me the amount of voodoo people think is inside those plastic jugs.
 
The "worst" oil you can buy today is most likely better than the "best" oil you could get in '87. It kills me the amount of voodoo people think is inside those plastic jugs.
I disagree with that. Remember the sludge left over from oils like Quaker State and Kendell??? Your engine looked like a 400 lb black birthday candle. I haven't run across that kinda shit in over 15 years. The Govt has def robbed oil of some vital properties, but I believe it still better.
 
Om
I disagree with that. Remember the sludge left over from oils like Quaker State and Kendell??? Your engine looked like a 400 lb black birthday candle. I haven't run across that kinda shit in over 15 years. The Govt has def robbed oil of some vital properties, but I believe it still better.[/quot
I disagree with that. Remember the sludge left over from oils like Quaker State and Kendell??? Your engine looked like a 400 lb black birthday candle. I haven't run across that kinda shit in over 15 years. The Govt has def robbed oil of some vital properties, but I believe it still better.
OMG, Do they still make that. I started to tear down a Quaker State motor in the 80's,and under the valve covers you could barely see the tops of the rockers.
 
I do remember sludged up Quaker State engines... and that was crap oil back then. Far from the best that was available.


today if an engine gets sludges up, it's not the oils fault. It's the person in charge of maintaining the oil.
 
I think any good quality oil regardless of brand will work flat tappet cams require zinc so if you run one use an oil that has zinc or the appropriate additive.
Pick a viscosity that gives you the pressure you like and run with it
 
10w30 VR1 which has zinc but instill add ZDDP

At the track if its really hot I run 10w40 VR1

RPE engine and builder suggested it

In my stock GNX I run the vr1
10w30 with ZDDP also it is not raced

Seems like most people run 10w30
 
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