Engine Cranks, turns on, kinda sputters, then shuts off

While the car is turned off unplug the orange wire coming from the battery positive terminal. Thats why I asked if the check engine light was on. Hook up your scan master the scanmaster will be able to read Malfunction codes. I think MAF is 34 it may have also triggered another code. unplug that wire and the ECM will reset itself.
 
While the car is turned off unplug the orange wire coming from the battery positive terminal. Thats why I asked if the check engine light was on. Hook up your scan master the scanmaster will be able to read Malfunction codes. I think MAF is 34 it may have also triggered another code. unplug that wire and the ECM will reset itself.
If you replaced the TPS without adjusting it to the proper spec, it probably is out of adjustment and this will cause both the ses light and poor idle/run quality. The IAC rarely requires adjustment and is controlled by the ecm.
 
Thank u all for the reply. I am goin out today to work on it. I'm also thinkin the TPS is out of adjustment as well & throwing the SES light. I'm hooking up the scanmaster today & I'll post what codes are popping up.
 
what codes are in it

OK... So hooked up the Scanmaster. I wasn't sure if I was to did it with car running or not so I did a series of both. The Scanmaster is only a 2.0 and I don't know how that differs from the 2.1, but I hope it does the job. Codes listed below:

Key on Engine OFF:
AF: 03
L8: 00
batt: 11.6
Int: 128
bL: 128
Clt: 90
AtS: 71
r: 000
tPS: .00
IAC: 100
MAL: 23
408: 0.0

Engine ON:
AF: 10
L8: 33
batt: 13.6
Int: 128
bL: 128
Clt: 103
AtS: 71
r: 1700
tPS: .00
IAC: 113
MAL: 22, 23
902: 0.0

Also, I did pressed the gas pedal all the way to the floor with the KOEO to test the TPS. It gave me a reading of 3.98. I did it very slow and it jump up in increments of .10-.20.

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Im stuck here for now... Thanks guys!
 
While the car is turned off unplug the orange wire coming from the battery positive terminal. Thats why I asked if the check engine light was on. Hook up your scan master the scanmaster will be able to read Malfunction codes. I think MAF is 34 it may have also triggered another code. unplug that wire and the ECM will reset itself.
Check out codes when u can
 
If you replaced the TPS without adjusting it to the proper spec, it probably is out of adjustment and this will cause both the ses light and poor idle/run quality. The IAC rarely requires adjustment and is controlled by the ecm.
Posted the codes up
 
Also, I have no idea of what chip came with the car. I would think it's the stock chip since the car is mostly stock
 
Your tps is reading 0 volts for some reason. Make sure it's plugged in and Try adjusting it to the .45 Volts.
 
Your tps is reading 0 volts for some reason. Make sure it's plugged in and Try adjusting it to the .45 Volts.
Yeah, I thought that was strange as well. When I pressed the pedal tho, it showed volts. Was it supposed too? I will check to make sure it is fully plugged in
 
With key on engine off,Loosen the two screws on the tps and slowly clock it so that the voltage shows .45 on the scanmaster. When it shows that, tighten the screws back up and try starting it. See if it idles then.
 
If it shows Volts when pressing the pedal, it's plugged in. Try what I said up there. It takes less than a minute.
 
With key on engine off,Loosen the two screws on the tps and slowly clock it so that the voltage shows .45 on the scanmaster. When it shows that, tighten the screws back up and try starting it. See if it idles then.
Awesome! Ok will do. The SES light is on as well. Could that cause it to be on?
 
If the tps sensor is reading less than .20 volts, it will throw a code 22. Check that on Scanmaster.
 
I adjusted the TPS. It is now at .44 volts. At WOT it's at 4.6 However, I can't get the IAC counts below 59. The engine idles a lot better, but as I adjust it it will not decrease. Any ideas on that? Also, there is a MAL 23 code that is popping up as well.
 
The IAC counts can be adjusted by combining an adjustment of the screw on the throttle blade (a torx screw) and the TPS. Shutting the throttle causes the IAC to open more to compensate at idle. But this also affects the TPS. So you have to adjust both a little up, a little down to get the right balance. This is where having a friend watch the scanmaster while you adjust comes in real handy. Even a bored rolling-eyed wife will do.
 
The IAC counts can be adjusted by combining an adjustment of the screw on the throttle blade (a torx screw) and the TPS. Shutting the throttle causes the IAC to open more to compensate at idle. But this also affects the TPS. So you have to adjust both a little up, a little down to get the right balance. This is where having a friend watch the scanmaster while you adjust comes in real handy. Even a bored rolling-eyed wife will do.
HAHA! I would if I was married. ;)Well, I was able to play with the adjustments a ill' bit. I made the scanmaster cords long to set them on too of the dash so I could see it thru the windshield. As I adjusted the TPS from .38 -.48 just to see if I could get the IAC counts down, they still wouldn't drop below 55. It would always eventually climb back up to 59-60. It seems to idle fine tho & TPS is set now at .44. I researched that there maybe a vacuum leak somewhere if counts won't drop. Is that true? Should I even mess with it anymore tho if it seems to run fine? Thanks John!
 
to get the iac count lower you are asking the iac to get closer to closed , to do that the throttle blade needs to be opened which will also cause the tps to to increase
set tps at .40 turn the iac screw in (to open throttle blade) a half turn and try again , repeat until iac counts drop to 20-30 at op temp while making sure tps doesnt exceed .44
 
to get the iac count lower you are asking the iac to get closer to closed , to do that the throttle blade needs to be opened which will also cause the tps to to increase
set tps at .40 turn the iac screw in (to open throttle blade) a half turn and try again , repeat until iac counts drop to 20-30 at op temp while making sure tps doesnt exceed .44
Thanks! I was able to make the correct adjustments and it is idling so much better now. Is there a certain RPM it should idle at as well or does the ECM control that. It was idling 775-800 in park once it settled in.

Now I just have to get the Code 23 figured out. The stock air box it gone. The elbow that the IAT sensor was in is gone also and the sensor is no where to be found (I got the car this way). However the wire and plug is still there and in tact. I've seen other options from pics on the board, but just trying to figure out what's the best for me to do in a stock set up.

Thank you all for you help as well!
 
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