Engine shut off

nickygn23

Active Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Hello guys. As the title says, as soon as I pull the shifter out of park and the engine shuts down ,like quickly.. Car was garaged and I pulled it out no problem. I was installing an AEM fuel to air gauge. I'm running the stock computer so I hooked it up as a stand alone. Simple, One red wire one Black ground and one Heated sensor. I started the car again and the gauge worked flawlessly . Just like all the rest of the electrical stuff I've done in the past for this car . I pulled the shifter out of park and the engine shut down. Tried again. same result. Third time it seem to work fine and I took it for a ride. All was well. I let it cool down started it and engine shut down again as soon as I pull it out of park. ... No Scanmaster Codes at all. I questioned my electrical hook ups so I rechecked my work. All looks right. There are two things off hand that will shut off a motor quickly . Locked up AC compressor or bad torque convertor .
My question is can anything electrical shut down your motor?
 
Any advise would be appreciated before I start tearing up stuff..
 

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Unplug the connector to the transmission on the driver side first. It might have the torque converter locked up from an intermittent failure of the TCC solenoid. Unpluging it eliminates this problem for the time being.
 
Losing power to the ECM will kill it. Where did you get power for the gauge and sensor?
 
Unplug the connector to the transmission on the driver side first. It might have the torque converter locked up from an intermittent failure of the TCC solenoid. Unpluging it eliminates this problem for the time being.
Yeah John I did replace the TCC solenoid a few years back.
 
My question is can anything electrical shut down your motor?
I had a bad pin connection at the ECM , it would kill the motor at any given time . It started as a slight miss fire at the track and I noticed on the powerlogger that all readings stopped for a split second then came back . After that that car would die randomly . I could get the car to restart by wiggling the ECM and connectors after pulling it out of the kick panel . I replaced both connectors on the ECM with Caspers pigtails and that solved the problem .
 
This is just strange though. All I did was install a AEM air fuel gauge. Powered it with a male spade to the ignition slot and a ground. I put in the heat o2 sensor. I wired things before all with success. That's it. I removed the whole Gauge from the car and it still has the same condition. People are saying TCC solenoid and convertor . Strange it happened after I hooked up the gauge. Can't be a coincidence one of those things went bad right after install. I'll unplug the tranny harness and see what happens. I replaced the TCC solenoid about 8 years ago.
 
Well thanks to the great advise from everybody I disconnected the tranny harness and it went into gear and didn't shut down. Looks like I'm putting a second TCC solenoid. At least I know I didn't screw up installing the gauge . Strange that they went at the same time. More info to follow.
Thanks guys.
 
You need to check the wiring to the ground terminal at the harness , and at the tranny connectors, to see where it's shorted. Tan/BLK stripe wire that goes to terminal D on each half of the connector.
Usually it's inside the transmission, but not always the solenoid itself.
The wiring from the transmission mounted connector to the solenoid shorts out to the metal on the tranny guts along where it's routed.
If you are sure the short is inside the transmission, which is an easy check with an ohm meter at the two connectors on the ground terminals of each connector unplugged terminal D, then you need to follow the two wires inside the trans. and look for insulation damage rubbing/short.
Replacing the solenoid itself may not fix the issue, since there's only 8 inches of wiring there that's easy to see and check for a short.
 
You need to check the wiring to the ground terminal at the harness , and at the tranny connectors, to see where it's shorted. Tan/BLK stripe wire that goes to terminal D on each half of the connector.
Usually it's inside the transmission, but not always the solenoid itself.
The wiring from the transmission mounted connector to the solenoid shorts out to the metal on the tranny guts along where it's routed.
If you are sure the short is inside the transmission, which is an easy check with an ohm meter at the two connectors on the ground terminals of each connector unplugged terminal D, then you need to follow the two wires inside the trans. and look for insulation damage rubbing/short.
Replacing the solenoid itself may not fix the issue, since there's only 8 inches of wiring there that's easy to see and check for a short.
Thanks. I check on that. I'll have the time to check it while the ATF is draining. Takes a while.
 
A tip I got when I did mine was use a TCC from a 700 R4. It has a longer stem but works fine and is supposed to be more robust. Basically the same cost.
 
A tip I got when I did mine was use a TCC from a 700 R4. It has a longer stem but works fine and is supposed to be more robust. Basically the same cost.
Thanks John. That's sounds right but I already ordered one for a 200-4R. Also a pressure switch just for cheap insurance . I'm going be in there, might as well. Still that's good info I'll pass on. Thanks again.
 
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