ECM .... Smoked 2 of them in a row

jk kelly

Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2012
My ECM smoked so I bought another one and when I plugged it in it smoked too. Any ideas of where to start and how to trouble shoot
 
Look for a shorted relay? Injector?

This would be an interesting one to troubleshoot, but very hard to do through a keyboard.....

I would probably open up the ecm and see if I could figure out what circuit smoked and go from there.
 
Look for a shorted relay? Injector?

This would be an interesting one to troubleshoot, but very hard to do through a keyboard.....

I would probably open up the ecm and see if I could figure out what circuit smoked and go from there.

That is good advise, find the short. :)

I smoked 2 ECM's on a customer's car before I found the wiring to the trans had a short in it?

Fortunately for the owner and me, Turbo Bob was able to repair them.

Have you done any mods or upgrades or any work around the engine or under the dash recently? If so, start looking there for a bare or crimped wire.
 
Look for a shorted relay? Injector?

This would be an interesting one to troubleshoot, but very hard to do through a keyboard.....

I would probably open up the ecm and see if I could figure out what circuit smoked and go from there.
i found the transistor it smoked and its the same one on both ecms.. how do i find what it goes to? its on the bottom board kinda in the middle, there is another one close to it and some numbers on the board around it with 103
 
All the components are identified on the circuit board and if Bob is right, the bad transistor would be marked "Q4". It supplies 12V to the fuel pump relay through ecm connector A1 (dark green wire with white stripe). Shorted fuel pump relay?
 
You most likely have a relay, solenoid or injector that is drawing too much current. Here is the way we test these and identify the culprit:

1. Disconnect and remove the ECM
2. Using the wiring diagrams identify every pin on the ECM harness that controls an injector, solenoid or relay
3. Configure a DVOM to measure current. Ground the negative lead of the meter.
4. With the key in the run position, one at a time, ground each of the pins you identified in step 2. This will cause the relay, solenoid or injector to turn on. (you are acting like the ECM)
5. Write down the results. Look for the circuit that pulls too much current. Also OBSERVE that the item being controlled TURNED ON! A circuit that doesn't work is probably the culprit.

*The one exception to this procedure is the Fuel pump relay. The ECM uses a High Side Driver to turn on the fuel pump relay. It sends out 12v to turn on the relay instead of providing a ground. To test this circuit/relay, move your grounded meter lead to 12V+

From memory here are the relays and solenoids:
AC relay
Cooling Fans
Boost control solenoid
Evap canister solenoid
ERVR (EGR) solenoid
all six injectors
*Fuel pump relay

I've used this procedure to fix cars that blow multiple ECMs.....it works.
 
You most likely have a relay, solenoid or injector that is drawing too much current. Here is the way we test these and identify the culprit:
Thanks a lot Dave, your very helpful
1. Disconnect and remove the ECM
2. Using the wiring diagrams identify every pin on the ECM harness that controls an injector, solenoid or relay
3. Configure a DVOM to measure current. Ground the negative lead of the meter.
4. With the key in the run position, one at a time, ground each of the pins you identified in step 2. This will cause the relay, solenoid or injector to turn on. (you are acting like the ECM)
5. Write down the results. Look for the circuit that pulls too much current. Also OBSERVE that the item being controlled TURNED ON! A circuit that doesn't work is probably the culprit.

*The one exception to this procedure is the Fuel pump relay. The ECM uses a High Side Driver to turn on the fuel pump relay. It sends out 12v to turn on the relay instead of providing a ground. To test this circuit/relay, move your grounded meter lead to 12V+

From memory here are the relays and solenoids:
AC relay
Cooling Fans
Boost control solenoid
Evap canister solenoid
ERVR (EGR) solenoid
all six injectors
*Fuel pump relay

I've used this procedure to fix cars that blow multiple ECMs.....it works.
 
Looking at the original post, It wasn't clear how quick the ECM was damaged.

Remember, the ECM supplies ground to turn most things on (fuel pump is the exception). So if there is a short in a controlled circuit, it has to be a short to power to hurt the ECM.

I've repaired vehicles where a solenoid winding went bad (low resistance) which causes the ECM to sink too much current to ground. This doesn't happen too often, but it will make you pull your hair out trying to find the problem. Just thought I'd share what I've learned.
 
Looking at the original post, It wasn't clear how quick the ECM was damaged.

Remember, the ECM supplies ground to turn most things on (fuel pump is the exception). So if there is a short in a controlled circuit, it has to be a short to power to hurt the ECM.

I've repaired vehicles where a solenoid winding went bad (low resistance) which causes the ECM to sink too much current to ground. This doesn't happen too often, but it will make you pull your hair out trying to find the problem. Just thought I'd share what I've learned.

That is why we are here. To learn and share.

D
 
To fry that quick it must be a dead short.

Check the plug for the oil sender.
Replaced fuel pump transistor in ECM , have power to fp relay harness when key is turned on for 2 seconds still won't crank unless I jump b and d terminals out then it cranks, that is the only way to get the fuel pump to run,also bought a relay from autozone.
 
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