I just bought the last brand new replacement crank gear for the Buick V6 gear drive from Milodon through Doug Herbert. That is really the only part that is going to be the hardest to source new or reproduce. Even the cam gear thrust bearing kit for the gear drive is a SBC gear drive part number.
Dump the gear and go timing chain?
- Thread starter 2GNS4ME
- Start date
Once you have the orientation figured out you can die mark the cam and crank gears so that you can quickly reference the die marks in the future. If you look carefully at the pics I posted, you can see a white die mark on the crank gear, and a reddish die mark on the cam gear where they both mesh with the idler gear.
Don't ask me why I used two different color dies. I have absolutely no idea.
It wouldn't be a good idea to mark the cam gear until after you've degree'd the cam and have figured out the final orientation of the cam gear. Even then, I wouldn't permanently mark the cam gear, just in case it needs to go into another engine and the cam gear orientation needs to be changed.
The example shown is a little more than what's needed.
Paul D. and I was setting my gearset up yesterday. After trying to degree the old chain setup with no sucess we installed the gearset and tried again. The cam was installed at 2 deg adv. the chain slop added an extra 5 degrees of advance. I'm running the older style flat bearing ,stage 2 heads with 174lbs installed 441 lb open springs. The chain had very little use. If possible I would change over to the better bearing if available.....if not it the older style.
Cheeseburger
Active Member
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2004
After reviewing this thread and others i have discovered another differance other then the idler gear (1 bolt vrs 3 bolt) between part number 13800 and 13805 (HD).
The backing plate between the two are not the same, to allow for larger upper bolts the backing plate on the 13805 version is wider then the 13800.
The use of 3/8 bolts on the smaller backing plate is not possible (i think) because their is not enough material to countersink a 3/8 bolt.
I believe you may get away with 5/16 max.
My 13800 came with 1/4" upper allen bolts which countersink in the backing plate and i.m.o. are not adequite.
The backing plate between the two are not the same, to allow for larger upper bolts the backing plate on the 13805 version is wider then the 13800.
The use of 3/8 bolts on the smaller backing plate is not possible (i think) because their is not enough material to countersink a 3/8 bolt.
I believe you may get away with 5/16 max.
My 13800 came with 1/4" upper allen bolts which countersink in the backing plate and i.m.o. are not adequite.
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Just wanted to add to this post by saying 70 or 80 passes with some street driving and dyno time on my car and timing chain looked good when i took it appart. I run 325# 0n the seat but i also made dam sure the cam gears line up perfect using a straight edge accross the 2 gears. The stack up of tolorance of the crank snout,gears,front of the block ect effect how the gears line up and if you dont check it your asking for trouble IMHO. Ive heard the guys that had chains fail didnt check this and found the gears were not lined up. The first stage motor i build for a guy was hard on chains until i lined the gears up perfect and after 100 passes the chain looked perfect. This is just what ive found that works for me so i thought id share...
J-B Racing
Forced Induction
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2003
Good to know Geno. I measured my Springs and are #500 at the seat. Seems like it was they way they wanted it when they ran the motor.
Good Info.
Joe
turbobitt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2002
Don't you use a true dry sump system ? If so I would think the pressure feeding would be more important for your application than a true wet sump. I know my gears are saturated with oil from the pressure relief oil being pumped into the cover.
Allan G.
turbobitt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2002
Here is another thing to look out for, I my last cam install with the gear set-up, I noticed a slight bias of the cam towards the front of the motor. If there is to much thrust the lifters would interfer with the neighboring lobes. To fix this it would require machining the gear plate or placing a shim between the upper gear and cam to set it back.
This didn't concern be for my current build since I been running it trouble free but if I go to a bigger body lifter I will need to address this.
AG.
This didn't concern be for my current build since I been running it trouble free but if I go to a bigger body lifter I will need to address this.
AG.
Yes, I do use a true blue drysump, and an EVAC pump. But, the crankcase is left open to provide better ventilation. For me, using methanol fuel, it's more important to me to better ventilate the crankcase and get the best performance and life from my oil than to build crankcase vacuum.
HelloBozos
A Bozo in Buick
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2011
Are these gear drives loud? do they whine louder then the turbo? i recall the ole pete jacksons for SB's you could choose a loud or quite set.
Squid4life
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
From what I understand as long as they are set up right they don't have nasty harmonics or noise. Nothing like the old PJ's, that is for sure! I have heard superchargers 25% as loud as a PJ!
turbobitt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2002
I would be willing to bet you wouldn't even know my car had one if you hear it run.
Allan G.
