Damn brake hoses...
- Thread starter sd-slider
- Start date
Anyone know an easy way to break loose the factory nut from the old hoses?
I have the proper tools and it still feels like it wants to round the edges of the nut....
Any ideas?
Thx.
define "proper tools"-------cause with the proper tools i have never had any trouble..........RC
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
First clean teh areas of crude then spray the frame to rubber line connetcor with penetrant ...I like PB blaster...as Mr. Clark said use teh proper tools and walla. I removed mine at 160 plus k and nothing rounded off
DailyDrifter
The Slow and the Curious
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2007
VISE GRIPS
. Maybe if you want to destroy the fitting. I heard (on this board) that 50:50 mix of acetone and trans fluid is the best way to loosen bolts. Also you need "Flair nut" wrenches or "Line" wrenches that grip on more of the fitting.
Bruce Urie
The Ventures,CCR forever!
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
I did this method quite a few times to unloosen brake lines at the calipers and at the master cylinder, plus a few other hard to loosen fasteners...spray PB Blaster on the fitting, let sit, put a propane torch on the fastener, then turn with a flare wrench, or, in serveral cases, a vise grip worked. If fastener does not turn, put on more PB Blaster, then the torch, then try turning. I've always managed to remover the fasteners this way, but it took patience and perserverence. I can't wait to see Richard's methods. Here's help from the real master. Great! I'm always willing to learn new methods. But sometimes, the proper tools won't work, as the brake line nut is too far gone for a flare wrench. In this case, the PB, torch, and vise gripped always worked. So far.
Bruce '87 Grand National
Bruce '87 Grand National
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
After using penetrant lubes for a day or two, make sure you use the proper flare nut wrench and go in BOTH directions, tight and loose, once you get a little wiggle out of the nut it will come loose again by going in both directions.
If the lines are that rusty replace them. I even do that, although I blew a couple rear ones out at the track racing.
If you are going to replace the lines cut them near the nut and use a box wrench on them.
If the lines are that rusty replace them. I even do that,
although I blew a couple rear ones out at the track racing. If you are going to replace the lines cut them near the nut and use a box wrench on them.
I did this method quite a few times to unloosen brake lines at the calipers and at the master cylinder, plus a few other hard to loosen fasteners...spray PB Blaster on the fitting, let sit, put a propane torch on the fastener, then turn with a flare wrench, or, in serveral cases, a vise grip worked. If fastener does not turn, put on more PB Blaster, then the torch, then try turning. I've always managed to remover the fasteners this way, but it took patience and perserverence. I can't wait to see Richard's methods. Here's help from the real master. Great! I'm always willing to learn new methods. But sometimes, the proper tools won't work, as the brake line nut is too far gone for a flare wrench. In this case, the PB, torch, and vise gripped always worked. So far.
Bruce '87 Grand National
I do it opposite to you Bruce. Heat and then the PB. This gets rid of any moisture and while cooling sucks the PB into the joint so it loosens faster.:biggrin:
Bruce Urie
The Ventures,CCR forever!
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
Charlie, your method makes sense to me. That's the way I'll do it the next time. Thank you for the heads up. Wonder why I didn't think of that?:redface:
Bruce '87 Grand National
Bruce '87 Grand National
jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2003
X 1,000,000:biggrin:
LOL No problem Bruce. If you have a line stuck on a wheel cylinder take the cylinder and turn it untill you have the line and nut loose. Then heat it but be careful. Brake fluid is flamable after all.:biggrin: I nailed one of my bosses when the brake fluid caught fire and shot out of the line.
One of my best days.:biggrin: LOLevery time i got to the shop i got distracted by something else and kept forgetting to take the pics-------its obvious that flarenut wrenches are needed but the real problem is that with older cars (especially northern ones) that nobody that i have found makes the perfect wrench-------forget Craftsman since they are too thin walled and actually flex open and slip on the nut-------START with a Mac, Snap-on or other quality heavy flare nut wrench and do the following: for the large line nut (the part closest to the car) use a 5/8 even though it seems that a 16mm fits------5/8 is slightly smaller than 16mm ie. .625 vs .630 and is ever so slightly tighter--------for the smaller line side of the hose use a 11 mm instead of a 7/16 since 11 mm is slightly smaller and tighter fitting than a 7/16------the rear alxe hose requires a 5/8 and 9/16---------for some reason the flare nut wrenches are made with an offset just like regular wrenches-----can't figure out why since rarely do you need room to clear your fingers when removing lines but they are made that way anyway-------problem is that when a really tough line is encountered and a lot of force is applied the wrench tends to "roll" away or "lift" from the nut------to prevent this heat the wrench up and flatten it so that it provides a straight pull on the line-------modified wrench is pictured on the left
-----another problem with wrenches is they usually taper the sides of the jaws to make it easy to align the wrench on the nut--------this is not a problem when you are working on a full thickness nut but when it is one of the narrow brake hose fittings flushed against the chassis you don't get much of a grip on the narrow fitting nut-------to cure this problem grind one side of the 5/8 wrench flat so that it grips all of the hose fitting possible------ modified wrench is pictured on the left
--------i modified these wrenches over 15 years ago and have removed many brake hoses without any problems..................RCSimilar threads
