Cylinder Heads...Which ones and why?

QTRMILER

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Just looking to get some other opinions on which cylinder heads would be better for street/strip use. Is a ported and polished stock casting with larger valves etc the way to go or is the champion iron better? and why? Which head is capable of making more power? Is either head going to create more turbo lag? or are they similar? Any other opinions also welcome. Also looking for input on upgraded cams to go along with the heads as well?
[The setup going on the car will be a te-60, 60lb injectors, intercooler upgrade (most likely a pte front mount) 2800 rpm conveter, and it already has most other bolt ons and fuel upgrades] Anyone have input on the combo as well? I'm open to suggestions, I'm just getting my feet wet with the Turbo Buicks again. Thanks
 
as far as heads go, it depends on what your goals for the car are. Many many people go reeeeeeeeeeel fast (10's) with the STOCK heads. And - Champion irons ARE cnc ported stock castings with bigger valves put in them. Champion also has GN1 heads that are aluminum, and flow more than the irons. I really need to hear your goals with the car to give you anymore advise on heads. But for now, if you are using that turbo, the biggest injectors you are gonna need are 50's - maybe 55's and you'll be fine. Those 60's are a little large for that turbo plus if you use the smaller injectors they will work with your STOCK computer. You can also find a KRAPLOAD of info on this site if you use the "search" button above.
 
champion iron heads seems to be alot of positive feedback. like gnfury said depends what your goals are . i have the champ. iron heads and intake. i would recomend them for street and strip.
 
It depends on how deep your pockets are & as stated previously what your goals are. I would recommend reworking your heads with a quality 3 angle valve job & Bracket race type porting.
 
Looking to make high 11/low 12 second street car in street trim (through the exhaust, drag radials, and driveable) Looking for opinions on the combo to see what else is needed to complete it and looking into the future in the event that something breaks, motor has @90k on it. Some have said alky is that way to go and from the reading, it seems like that would get me to my goals, but as with all old parts, something will break somewhere. Is the extra $$ worth it for the champions or are the stock ported better and is there are good street cam like a 206 etc that would compliment the extra flow of the heads?? Anyone using a similar combo as the one listed?? If so what are the results? With tuning, I feel that I could get to the ballpark I'm looking for without the heads/cam/intake. But if something goes bad, might as well upgrade while its apart. Preparking for the future I guess. Thanks for the help.
 
check out my combo

te 44 ported irons 212/212 comp cam off the shelf , atr dp no cat pit bull exhaust ferrea valves....24 psi did over 460 hp
with girdle also...rjc rocker shaft supports and rjc boost controller...orange stripe stock tranny with art carr shift kit...

see dyno and videos of recent track times...
www.shandy.com/gn




all with working a/c and lots of daily driving...trust me i have already put over 5000 miles on new motor since thanksgiving...
do the heads...also
8uwith6 and quick n kc will tell you you dont really need the heads to make a fast car... but i say the hell with it and did it....trying for 10's with this combo...
 
Alky. injection and stock heads and cam. should get you to your goals at about 25psi. boost.

About 21* timing alky. type streetable chip.

If you have to take the heads off for some reason the ported champion irons are a very nice product.

If you have some skillz or wish to learn, home port your stockers according to gnttype.org directions and by using the search feature on the board. :cool:

Assuming your track can get you a 1.7 or 1.75 60ft. on those drag radials you should be fine.

I've only got 157K on my car and no way am I going into the motor for heads and cam. :p

Other car has 120K on it and runs the same times.

11.9's at 24/25 psi. boost.

Daily drivers too, full exhaust, very heavy, highly optioned, and I suck at racing. :rolleyes:

Car number two the GN made the 11's in 8 passes done over 3 years time at various Buick and GM events.

Last 4 passes were 12.0's or better with a PTE51 turbo and stock location intercooler and the alky. at 25 psi. at LVD in NY.

Eric Marshall makes a good alky. chip. :D

I'd spend the head money on the street/strip tranny rebuild and not touch a nice Buick built 90K mile car. Hopefully that's what you have. :)
 
If guys are getting these flow numbers for $900 complete, I do not see the need in purchasing more expensive and possible problematic aftermarket heads that might flow 10 cfm more.

Here are the actual flow numbers from a member who took their head to VPE.

Intake Exhaust

050 48 42
100 78 79
150 114 103
200 149 128
250 181 146
300 199 158
350 210 164
400 217 172
450 222 176
500 226 180
550 228 183

VPE will be getting my stock heads next spring.
 
Nick Micale at ArizonaGN

Nick Micale at ArizonaGN - Max hi flow heads with oversize ferra valves. Not sure what the flow numbers are, but check my sig.

This time and mph was on the first pass out with my buddy Al driving, un-tuned and running rich.

Hoping to go to the track in middle March sometime once the roll bar get installed to improve time and mph. Can't wait!
 
Nick Micale at ArizonaGN

Nick Micale at ArizonaGN - Max hi flow heads with oversize ferra valves. Not sure what the flow numbers are, but check my sig.

This time and mph was on the first pass out with my buddy Al driving, un-tuned and running rich.

Hoping to go to the track in middle March sometime once the roll bar get installed to improve time and mph. Can't wait!
 
Nick Micale at ArizonaGN

Nick Micale at ArizonaGN - Max hi flow heads with oversize ferra valves. Not sure what the flow numbers are, but check my sig.

This time and mph was on the first pass out with my buddy Al driving, un-tuned and running rich.

Hoping to go to the track in middle March sometime once the roll bar get installed to improve time and mph. Can't wait!

Ray

P.S Nick also gives excellent tech support!
 
I'm having my heads ported by precisionporting.com, they are local and have had really good results. In addition to porting and bigger valve i'm also having the valves and combustion chambers thermally coated.
 
Originally posted by DR.BOOSTER
If guys are getting these flow numbers for $900 complete, I do not see the need in purchasing more expensive and possible problematic aftermarket heads that might flow 10 cfm more.

Here are the actual flow numbers from a member who took their head to VPE.

Intake Exhaust

050 48 42
100 78 79
150 114 103
200 149 128
250 181 146
300 199 158
350 210 164
400 217 172
450 222 176
500 226 180
550 228 183

VPE will be getting my stock heads next spring.

These heads might flow as much as a set of stock Champion Aluminums but port them and it is another story. The TA Heads with a max effort port will flow over 60CFM more than the irons.
 
Originally posted by John Wilde
These heads might flow as much as a set of stock Champion Aluminums but port them and it is another story. The TA Heads with a max effort port will flow over 60CFM more than the irons.

I agree they won't flow the most, but they are 50+% increase in flow over the stock heads which makes a significant difference in power. Also you are not getting near a set of P&P aluminum heads for $900 shipped back to your door.

I'm also going the VPE route because they told me what I would get for $900 and the heads shipped back to my house. For those of us that won't be living on the track, I'm sure it will make a world of difference. Putting a set of $1600-$2000 heads on a car you won't be using to compete with might not be the best idea.
 
It depends on how deep your pockets are
That pretty much sums it up. If you got the bucks, go with the aluminum heads. Not only do they flow better, but they have better heat transfer, and they are lighter! The aluminum will stay just a tad cooler, and be slightly less prone to knock, all other things being equal.
 
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