Cutting Out At ~14 PSI Boost - Suspect Fuel Pump
- Thread starter Terbro
- Start date
Do us a favor .. stay out of the thread .. your not helping the OP nor anyone else with your ignorance ... lets get back on target here and try to help this guy out
captrob
Slow GN Fizz!
- Joined
- May 30, 2001
The regulator valve is spring loaded closed, so as long as the pressure is below the set point it should be relatively sealed. If the regulator valve was not sealing, it would be hard to make pressure(bypassing all the time). If the diaphragm was torn, then pressure would not rise with boost and probably have fuel out the vacuum port. If there is no fuel in the vacuum port, then check pressure rise by running the pump...add a set pressure to the port(mitey vac)...and see if fuel pressure rises. If it does, then regulator is fine. If it doesn't, then either the pump is not up to task, or regulator is bypassing to much fuel out the return.
You need to systematically rule out parts so that you can find the offending item/items.
If pressure drops immediately after shutdown and a properly working regulator, then it can only be leaking injector(wet cylinder), a split fuel pump hose, or bad pump check valve.
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So in my case i had to much fuel pressure in the beginning couldn't bring it down enough. I added a new stainless 1/2 inch main line for larger supply of fuel then pressure would not go under 50 psi. So I used the original main as a return and this brought my pressure down. So is my fuel regulator bad? This is a brand new accufab ?
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Im sorry my pressure went up after i changed to a bugger pump.
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- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Not sure how you got involved in this thread, as I've not read every post. However, if you inserted your post to put your problem up for help, I'd suggest you start your own thread.
If this is not the case, the back/forth needs to stop.
120 replies, and Terbro is still fishing for a fix....
TIA,
captrob
Slow GN Fizz!
- Joined
- May 30, 2001
Larger pump flows more than the engine needs at lower rpm = more bypassed fuel. If the return line is too small, then it can't bypass enough and the rail pressure cannot be controlled below that point.
Large pump with bigger return lines; or double pump with higher rpm or boost switch on the second pump : two ways to get to the same goal...more fuel at wot.
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Ok before you buy anything contact me ill give you whatever you need if i have it. Fuel lines fittings translators data logger or Scan master Casper caps ill give it to you free.
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Pronto
Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
You needed a larger RETURN line.
Just think if it left the shop "CORRECT" we wouldn't have any entertainment
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
I have known Nick for a long time now and I trust his advice on anything Buick.
If he did the work and it is not doing what it is supposed to go back to him and let him figure it out. At the end of the day, this is business.
You pay for a service and a result and you should get it. I have never known Nick to screw over anyone. What is worse, you have no tools to check anything and you cant solve this problem without them. Maybe there is something else going on here we all dont know of but either you want the problem solved or you dont.
We all know how much money these cars take to build but as you have said it is not doing what it is supposed to. What are you going to do about it Terbro?
If he did the work and it is not doing what it is supposed to go back to him and let him figure it out. At the end of the day, this is business.
You pay for a service and a result and you should get it. I have never known Nick to screw over anyone. What is worse, you have no tools to check anything and you cant solve this problem without them. Maybe there is something else going on here we all dont know of but either you want the problem solved or you dont.
We all know how much money these cars take to build but as you have said it is not doing what it is supposed to. What are you going to do about it Terbro?
At this point who's to say it didnt. Seems like a intermittent problem and maybe it didn't occur when nick had the car.
Then again maybe it did we don't know. We need to have the OP to test the regulator still with pressure to the port and or swap it with a known good unit and if that doesn't fix it it's time to drop the tank
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- Joined
- May 28, 2001
No one has ruled out wasetgate control working correctly either.
I appreciate your diplomacy .. However If you read the OP's posts ( CAREFULLY) ... a lot becomes very very apparent . I am not throwing anyone under the bus nor do I care to get into that drama .
I can tell you this I FULLY AND 100% can say the OP has been very transparent and has posted to a very high level factual information that I think makes things cut and dry .. and I am willing to help out in any way I can to help him resolve the issue ...
It's not hard to figure this out at all .. it's simple step by step diagnoses that is so routine with these cars its not even funny .
What we don't need is guys muddying up the thread with their own car's problems and having this guy go off on tangents ..
To the OP .. if you need tools or scan equipment or whatever .. let me know .. I'll send it to you .. if you were closer I would help you drop the tank and take a peek
( HINT HINT ) .. I know what its like to not have spare time and wanting to make the most efficient use of what free time you have.
Let us know how we can help
Good Lordy...the website failed to send emails to let me know there were new posts over the last 2-3 days. There's been a whole lot happenin'!
Some folks are can be rude, but I'll ignore that stuff. But that's the nature of the "Internet tough guy".
Anyway - an update: I'm waiting for my new fuel tank to arrive before I drop the tank. And no...no need to tell me the fuel tank isn't the problem. I know that. It's just that it looks like crap, has a big dent in it, so while I'm dropping it, mind as well swap in a new one. The best price I found incidentally was from 1A Auto. $165 shipped with new straps. Canadian made.
The new tank will arrive just about the time my son and I are heading out on a short trip for a couple days for Spring Break, so I probably won't have time to drop the tank for about a week.
Some folks are can be rude, but I'll ignore that stuff. But that's the nature of the "Internet tough guy".
Anyway - an update: I'm waiting for my new fuel tank to arrive before I drop the tank. And no...no need to tell me the fuel tank isn't the problem. I know that. It's just that it looks like crap, has a big dent in it, so while I'm dropping it, mind as well swap in a new one. The best price I found incidentally was from 1A Auto. $165 shipped with new straps. Canadian made.
The new tank will arrive just about the time my son and I are heading out on a short trip for a couple days for Spring Break, so I probably won't have time to drop the tank for about a week.
Thank you very much turbo89. This positivity is very refreshing. I'll say that the majority of posters have been very helpful, and then someone comes in with an attitude out of nowhere, says something rude or insulting and, while I trying stay positive, being human I have an ego...and it just throws the whole spirit of things down. So peeps like you are great to bring it back up...thank you.
I've had some good input related to the FPR, and so it sounds like it's probably not it, with the pressure testing I've done. I think I'll take off the upper housing just to check and confirm that the diaphragm's integrity is good (just because it looks so easy to do), then drop the tank.
If that doesn't reveal anything, I will take you up on your offer...greatly appreciated.
Terry
