Car accelerates slow, no pickup, no boost

[adambilyeu]

Car accelerates slowly...seems to have no boost. If I mash the pedal, I hear a "pop" in the engine and the boost gauge also maxes out with the pop. I've checked all the basic stuff that I usually have problems with- spark plug wires and vacuum hoses- but I don't see anything obvious. I'm going to hook up to turbo-link scan tool tonight to read any codes. Anyone ever had similar problems? The "pop" sound I hear from the engine, gives me a feeling it's not going to be good..

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

I had a similiar problem and the pop was caused by a bad coil module and bad spark plug wires. Get your ohm meter out and check both of these. These cars need really good ignition, ECM and MAF. If your car has any of these from 84/85 you are going to have problems, problems and problems. Brad

 

[hcox10]

no tach no boost

hi
i had the poping noise at wot it was my cam put in new cam lifters timing chain.runs great now.
cost around 1300.
wish you the best harold

 

[adambilyeu]

I scanned the ecm and it tells me that code 32 is set. Has anyone ever had this set on your car? About a week ago I found a vacuum line blown off the egr bleed solenoid- it was oil covered so I guessing that's why it came off easily. I checked the diaphragm on the EGR valve and it moves freely with no problem- I disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR valve while the car is running and the diaphragm falls. While the car is running and the vacuum line connected, the diaphragm is pulled to the top. Should I replace the bleed solenoid? Anyone ever seen this? Could this code be masking some other problem?? I need to put everything back together and take for another spin....I don't think this explains my slow acceleration and popping noise when I'm driving down the road trying to accelerate.

CODE 32
Trouble Code 32 indicates that the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve diaphragm is not where the ECM expects it to be. The ECM controls the diaphragm with a Pulse-Width Modulated (PWM) waveform. The EGR has a vacuum bleed solenoid that adjusts the vacuum applied to the EGR valve based on this pulse width. If there is sufficient vacuum at the EGR valve, a switch closes to send a signal back to the ECM. The absence of this signal is the bases for code 32.

The conditions for setting this code are:

* no vacuum to EGR (switch open), and
* Code 33 or 34 (MAF error) is not present, and
* engine running and LV8 is less than 100, and
* coolant temperature is > 118 deg F (48 deg C), and
* the EGR solenoid duty cycle is < 65%, and
* the above conditions are met for more than 25 seconds


Typical causes for this code include:

1) Faulty EGR valve-to-ECM connection
2) Plugged EGR passages and/or sticking EGR valve
3) Defective EGR valve
4) Defective EC

 

[adambilyeu]

Car has progressively gotten worse....running extremely rough, absolutely no acceleration, popping noises coming from engine when trying to accelerate, past couple of days it was hard to start. I've given up and dropped the car off at the local Buick dealer for a mechanic to look over.

 

[adambilyeu]

All right all you turbo guru's.....I need some help. I got a new egr solenoid installed---Thanks Keith! and now all codes are gone! yea! but I still get the "pop" when I'm accelerating and the boost picks up. When it does pop, the boost gauge maxes out with the pop sound. If I keep the pedal to the floor the engine pops and then sputters and fails to continue to increase boost, so I have to let off. The car is drivable but it's not really fun anymore, if you know what I mean. I've checked the coil pack and they all read 12k ohms between all coils- I've checked all the plug wires too- all good. I've checked all vacuum lines- all seem good and tight. A previous post mentioned a cam problem....I have no way of checking that....any more ideas? Help!

 

[TurboBuRick]

Pull the driver side valve cover and start the motor. See if all the rockers are moving the same. Chances are #3 exhaust valve is not moving much. You may want to lay a towel down by the bottom of the head to catch any oil that spatters out.

This will tell you if the cam is worn.

Get to work.

 

[RegalT-type85]

Drop your exhaust, let it just dump out from the Downpipe. If that helps, it's a clogged cat. Might not be that but Just check to see if it helps any. I hope it's something that simple buddy.

Take care

By the way I had a Clogged cat, Had the same, NO boost, no pickup AND pop sound. Again it might not be that but just look into that.

 

[adambilyeu]

Thanks for the idea...I'll try the exhaust check first...with any luck, hopefully that will be it. I'll let everyone know the results.

 

[jay3000]

Are the plugs gapped properly.. That was the problem on my twin turbo 350... Plug gap was too wide..

 

[adambilyeu]

New plugs and wires are coming next....with these hot cars- it's almost a must every year. The turbo really heats it up under the hood...and the plugs under the turbo are the absolute worst to change out, I hate doing them.

 

[etriebe]

timing

I just was thinking maybe your timing chain jumped(because of the popping and no power) or maybe a bad MAF

 

[RegalT-type85]

New plugs and wires are coming next....with these hot cars- it's almost a must every year. The turbo really heats it up under the hood...and the plugs under the turbo are the absolute worst to change out, I hate doing them.

Do you take off your DP and Up pipe? I've have gotten so use to working on this car i can take off the turbo DP, Up pipe in a few mins

How is she running now? Did you get a chance to dump your exhaust before cat?

 

[adambilyeu]

I'm dropping the cat tonight- let's hope that's all it is.

 

[adambilyeu]

Dropped the cat and it's not clogged- Since I had it down- I drilled it out- so now it's definitely not clogged. Drove down the road with a open down pipe and car still hesitates and sputters under wot. Putting the cat back on tonight- More than likely a engine problem- probably going to take it to the local buick shop- probably either cam? timing ? I don't know.

 

[etriebe]

Where are you located, maybe someone can come help?

 

[adambilyeu]

I'm in Huntsville, AL. Anyone near here?
Since I had the cat off- I replaced the fuel filter. Next is new plugs and wires. I was driving to work this morning and now I have code 24 set in the ecm.

I'm pretty sure this code was set when I had code 32 (EGR) set as well- but can't remember for sure. I checked the cable for any loose connections- seems ok. I need to check the TPS voltage- I can't get my turbo link scan tool to work on my laptop anymore- it doesn't sense the cable is connected to the ecm. If anyone near Huntsville, AL has a scan tool- I'm asking for help. Much appreciated....Thanks all. Adam

CODE 24

Trouble Code 24 indicates that the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is reporting an abnormally low reading when other sensors indicate it should be higher.

The conditions for setting this code are:

* no Code 33 or 34 (MAF Error) is present, and
* the vehicle speed signal indicates < 4 MPH and
* engine speed is between 1400 and 4400 RPM, and
* during a low load condition (LV8 between 50 and 99), and
* transmission not in Park or Neutral, and
* all conditions met for more than 20 seconds


If the code was logged when the vehicle was in motion, the following should be checked:

1) Defective or corroded VSS connections
2) Maladjusted TPS sensor. The TPS should read about 0.42 volts at closed throttle
3) Defective speedometer cable
4) Bad or missing speedo drive gear(s) in tail shaft housing of the transmission
5) Defective VSS
6) Defective ECM

 

[racemybuick]

This could be a few things... Im leaning towards the crank sensor or cam sensor right now... When I was buying a TR a few years back, the car had a really hard time starting, then would fall flat on its face when you got it running and driving... Turned out it was a failing crank sensor. After a while, the guy told me the car just wouldnt start, and he wouldnt budge on his price (3500 for a non running 84 ttype), so I told him he can keep the car and get it fixed and call me when it was running... He sold it for 2500 a few months later, and the guy who bought it had it towed to buick... They swapped out cam and crank sensors and the car runs great. I see it at car shows every once in a while!


Good luck!!!


John

 

[Jerryl]

What chip and injectors are in the car?

The intake backfire could be as "simple" as a lean condition created by the sum of a bad MAF, bad TPS, Bad fuel pump/pressure, or a bad ground(s).

You have already changed out a few things, so this comes to mind;
If you are unable to build boost, AND, there are no exh leaks, AND, the plugs look decent, and the motor is quiet, I would try a fuel pressure test, verify the TPS with a VOM, and borrow a known good MAF.

To determine if the MAF and other vitals are any good, You will need a working scantool, period.

 

[adambilyeu]

Stock injectors, kenne bell chip. I've replaced the egr solenoid to get rid of code 32, checked the cat (good), replaced the fuel filter, next is the plugs and wires. Car idles fine, starts fine, runs fine at low speed and gradually picks up speed. I can't accelerate fast or build boost- wot produces a "pop" in the engine and the car hesitates and sputters. I need to check tps voltage and fuel pressure. I have turbo link but I can't get it to talk to the ecm- it thinks it's not plugged in and gives me a cable error. Plugs and wires are next, 1 step at a time.