Buffing experts needed

R

RICER X

Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2010
Got a new toy (7" Buffer-polisher) and am needing advice. I'm trying to find a good setup for this and am starting out from scratch. I've been looking at Eastwood's liquid ice system but would like to find something for a little less cash that would still do a good job on a black car. And any advice to keep me from killing the paint job on my GN.
 
How bad is the paint. Dull and spiderweb. Or rough texture. Buffing can remove paint quick. Or my preferred method of polishing to a beautiful shine. There is a difference in techniques.
Which does your car need?
 
You could always learn how to perfect your technique on that brother-in-law's car that needs a little help. Learn and burn on his rig until you feel comfortable enough to try it out on yours. :LOL:
 
You need to practice on something besides a black GN! If you have no other choice, don't be cheap on materials (A bottle of 3M Pefect it II is over $60). Use the least aggressive pad/polish and if that doesn't work, then get more aggressive. Start on an inconspicuous area, stay away from edges and don't work in direct sunlight, oh and don't expect it to be a quick process.
 
I have been frustrated with my hood and trunk lid for a super long time. I have two choices, one is to compound to remove oxidation and rebuff. Two, sand and refinish. I will doing the latter. I have tried buffing before with no resolve. I have been working with 2X aerosols. Not hard at all to work with, so sanding my hood and trunk lid with 1500 grit and clear coat sounds like a better idea.
 
I've got a half dozen cars around the house to practice on before I hit my GN. With anything from my GN, which isn't really to bad it just needs some touch up paint here and there that needs blended in, but has clear coat. To the worse paint job looks like bed liner. Orange peel. I have one that came from Florida that the clear looks like it was hit lightly with a sandblaster. It probably never had a wax job. I don't think I can save it. I don't know if I have the option or ability. I've looked on autogeek and saw saw some hook and loop backing plate, some pads ect. I just don't know were to begin. I realize this is a lot more aggressive than my 10" orbital buffer but as you can see, it won't touch this summers projects.
 
And after you buff it you will still have to apply some type of hand polish to remove swirl marks I hope it's a variable speed buffer it's important to stay with end the rpm recommendation of the polish I like the 3m products perfect it with a foam pad I'll go over a car using three different types of compound and glaze and finesse and swirl remover and still use a paste wax to remove the swirls the swirl remover didn't get I have seen people catch a edge with a buffer or a antenna and lose control of it and do some serious damage yes black is not a good color to start with between each step it's important to hand wash the car with as hot as water as you can stand to lift the remaining residue left on the finish from the previous step and have a couple of pads for the different compounds it's not in common for me to spend 8-10 hours on a car we get 300-500 for doing a car at the shop depending on size and condition


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Meguiars professional line is available at some auto parts store now. Compound 105 and polish 205. It's really hard to beat that combo using a rotary or orbital.
 
If buff is needed I would use 3m micro finishing compound and wool pad then move to a black foam pad with same compound, install a new black foam pad and go with finessit. Finish it with dark color swirl remover and blue pad, very little product needed at the end. All above is 3m products.


To achieve the best polish and shine IMHO. Use a 6" da polisher with meguiars ultimate compound then ultimate polish with foam pads. This combo leaves no swirls what so ever and a deep shine and you can do wax with it to.
 
If you ask a hundred guys, you'll get a hundred answers. Lots of different products and ways to get it done. Personally, I like 3M stuff. It doesn't just cover up the swirls with slime like some of the other leading brands do. I like doing my buffing at night, in my garage, under florescent lights. If you can make it look good there, it should look good anywhere. IMO, This stuff takes years to properly wrap your head around. While learning, You WILL burn though some paint. Take your time and don't use a nice paint job to try and figure it out on.



Happy Buffing.
Mike Barnard
 
Thumper said:
If buff is needed I would use 3m micro finishing compound and wool pad then move to a black foam pad with same compound, install a new black foam pad and go with finessit. Finish it with dark color swirl remover and blue pad, very little product needed at the end. All above is 3m products.


To achieve the best polish and shine IMHO. Use a 6" da polisher with meguiars ultimate compound then ultimate polish with foam pads. This combo leaves no swirls what so ever and a deep shine and you can do wax with it to.
Click to expand...
I like your thinking except maybe a wool pad might be a little aggressive for a beginner maybe a white foam compound pad to start off with ?
 
hiboom said:
I like your thinking except maybe a wool pad might be a little aggressive for a beginner maybe a white foam compound pad to start off with ?
Click to expand...

I will agree with you hiboom as the wool pad is aggressive. I would recommend some serious evaluation as to what method is needed. I am still wanting to know from the op what the condition of the paint on his gn is. I quit using rotary buffers a couple years ago and now only use my variable speed da polisher as it is better (no swirls to deal with and does great correction with less heat) unless you need to do some serious cutting of the paint. It depends on how bad the paint really is as to which way of correction is needed.
 
A lot of excellent advice here. I personally would HIGHLY recommend using a DA (dual action) buffer to avoid damaging the paint any further. Orbital buffers are for seasoned pro's only. A DA buffer will take just a short bit longer but will do every bit as good a job, and won't allow you to burn through the paint.
I like Meguires 105 and 205, but also use Griot's Garage products.
Do a LOT of reading and studying before you dive in. Get a good DA buffer.

Here's my source for EVERYTHING automotive finishing related!!!

http://www.autogeek.net/

Not only the best of all products, but.... Tons and tons of videos to watch for the best techniques, etc.
My car now looks like Mike Barnard's (Spoolfool) after I used my DA buffer, various pads, and products obtained from autogeek.net and learning from the videos. I took what seemed like a really really nice paint job and tuned it into a stunning finish!!

P.S. Don't use wool pads!!! TOO agressive and WILL burn your paint unless you're a pro.
 
Spoolfool2. That looks great. Now that is buffed/polished to a beautiful shine like yours is, it is time to learn how to maintain it. Wash / drying methods can leave light scratches as they are seen easier and show more, you just can't go up and wipe on it without light scratches showing . What is your maintenance routine to keep it this way , or do you buff it each year or two?



Happy Buffing.
Mike Barnard[/quote]
 
If u want to save some $ on compound check out 3m or meguires compounds from summit racing. The auto parts and auto body shops rape u on that stuff. Also, buy a hook and loop backing pad for your buffer if u don't have one. I recommend using wafer style buffing pads. They don't tend to create as much heat. Also get one pad for each type of compound. Fast cut, medium, swirl/polish. Then go over the car buy hand. I have been really happy with finishing my GN with the turtle wax black box kit. Takes some elbow grease though.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
87 We4
 
I like to sand over them with foam 6" sand paper 2000 or 3000 grit wet sand with a da to remove oxidation. Then buff with a mix of 50% presta x cut compound 40% 3m #1 10% water to delute a little with a wool pad. Then I use finesse with a black foam pad to remove swirls. Then a good waxing.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Main thing take your time. It's a lot of work to do it right. I have been doing it for years and I still hate it. Also sense new get some tape a tape all edges. U have to put heat in it to buff but not to much. Finesseing it low rpm and slow to remove marks. But I am still no expert either.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
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