Bought engine???Number don't jive???

gr8regal

New Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2002
Just bought a 1985 gn motor, complete.
Drove 12 hours to pick-up. Great guy helped load and tried to sell me the rest of the car(didn't need those parts). Got home Mid night. -- Good nights sleep---
Unloaded on Saturday disasemblied engine check block # and I come up with 25524140 with heads 25518445(heads right all have these) But the block is it Turbo?? says non at turbo buick.com . Whats up???:confused: :confused: possibly:mad: :mad:
 
Far as the heads go, my T-rivi motor had 8445s so it should be fine. Does it have an oil drain line at the top? If so, it was at least added. If it's a rebuilt, that leaves you at the mercy of the rebuilder pertty much. I'd pull the pan and a rod cap to check the crankshaft, then if worse comes to worse I'd check your pistons too. If it's got a good crank and good pistons in it, I wouldn't worry about it, there are lots of people running on NA blocks just fine.
 
That is the number on the 85 blocks. Mine even has a 85 3.8 4.1 in the bellhousing between the cam plug and left core plug. Correct as the later engines were the 109 blocks. Still a 20 bolt pan.
 
you have a regal 3.8 block according to www.gnttype.org. The question is, did someone just swap the intake? That very block used the 8445 heads, as did most 3.8's of the 83-87 cars. The only real way to tell if it is a turbo block is to drop the pan, and determine if the crank has the rolled fillets. If it does not have the rolled fillets, it is just a N/A, non-turbo that someone swapped out. You should do yourself the favor and tear down that block for good measure!! My bro and I purchased an 84 GN that supposedly had a rebuilt motor...Rod knock when it got home, and seized up that day when loading off the trailer. We did nto pay much for the car, so it was no big deal, but it still sucked to find out the motor is shot. We went out and found another 84 GN with a motor that supposedly had 25,000 miles off a factory rebuild. We pulled the heads to find major scoring in the cylinders, several large pieces missing from the tops of the pistons, and water in the oil pan. To say the least, we were pretty pissed, and got half our money backa nd kept the car.

The positive side is, the company who replaced the motor gladly accepted to work on it, as it was their handywork originally, and offered us a great deal on the price for the total rebuild. My advice is simple: Take the heads off, check the cylinders, check the pistons, check the bearings, check the crank...tear it all down and make sure you are not in the same hole my bro and I are in.

I have made it a point to check out a car before I buy it by doing some simple things...A compression test if the motor is still in the car. Cost nuttin, and can tell you a million things about a motor.
Ask for full documentation if they state the motor is turbo, or rebuilt. If they cannot tell you who rebuilt it, or cannot provide recipts, I would say 50% of the time they lost it and beat on the car, or they did not rebuild it, but cleaned it up or someone else rebuilt it when they bought it and beat on it. lol. I know it sounds pesimistic, but if you sink 1000+ in a motor, I think you would keep your recipts for future reference, ins purposes, and so on.

My heads are in the shop now,a nd I have the initial drop off recipt, and I have the deposit slip, and I have the final cost estimate...That is just for the heads!!!

long and short of it, I may sound like a crazy record keeper or sumthin, but I know I am not the only one who wants to keep all documents related to my car, so that I can stand behind my car, and I can prove that I am not B.S'n just to sell.

Piece of mind i guess.

Call the seller up and ask if it was rebuilt, or what he remembers what the motor has done since it was made! A little research will pay off or tie up loose ends!

John
 
I've looked at pictures but have not been able to tell the difference betweeen the crappy and the billet crank. How can you see the difference between the billet and n/a crank??? are there # or is it all visual??
Trying to decide if it is worth rebuilding?
 
There is no such thing as a turbo block. NA and "turbo" are the same. Same goes for the rods and heads. There is a turbo crank and turbo pistons. Turbo crank and NA crank look nearly identical and I'm pretty sure they're the same casting. The fillets on the main jounals are rolled on both cranks. The rod fillets are rolled on the turbo crank because that's the weak point. I don't know how to describe them other than to look at pictures on gnttype.org. As for pistons, I haven't seen a stock piston in so long, I don't remember what they look like. While you might be able to get away with a non turbo crank for a while, I wouldn't try NA pistons.
 
Top