Bottom end trashed

[slick6732]

Think I have bitten off more then I can chew, Bought 87 t-type with spun crank, Pulled engine and have on stand. Looks like the crank has knicked the side of the engine block. This is my first engine build, I do have a master tech to help if I get in way over my head, but would like to do as much myself as I can. Would just like a little input on the condition of the crank and block from the experts on here. Just wondering if anyone has seen a crank slap the inside of the block before?
Thanks !!!!

 

[counterman]

Help me out, here. I do not see what you are talking about. I DO see that someone has been in there before, as the rods are stamped as to position. Perhaps a previous repair or failure caused whatever marks you see on the block. Is there any damage to the block other than the marks you see? Also, does the crank in the motor now have matching witness marks, or not? Thanks, Rudy.

 

[A2000RICH]

Think I have bitten off more then I can chew, Bought 87 t-type with spun crank, Pulled engine and have on stand. Looks like the crank has knicked the side of the engine block. This is my first engine build, I do have a master tech to help if I get in way over my head, but would like to do as much myself as I can. Would just like a little input on the condition of the crank and block from the experts on here. Just wondering if anyone has seen a crank slap the inside of the block before?
Thanks !!!!

are talking about the place on the oil passage that lines up with the #1 connecting rod ??????-----------if so that relief is on a lot of the blocks from the factory------it is extra clearance for the rod-------------sometimes it is done even more for stroker crank/rods but yours appear to be stock with the addition of ARP bolts-----------i would not worry about it unless you see a crack-----------even then you can easily repair it with a piece of 1/2" copper pipe and sealant.........RC

 

[earlbrown]

You need to invest in some precision measuring tools. Since that engine's been rebuilt, you need to double check EVERYTHING (Then check it again).

I see aftermarket main studs, ARP bolts, double roller timing chain and forged pistons.

You need to measure the bores relative to the pistons. Measure the crank journals and bearing ID's. Speaking of that.... keep track of what main bearing went where and post pictures of them. There's way too many instances of line boring done incorrectly and taking out engines quickly. Double check that the rod caps have been clearances for the ARP bolts, etc...
If the block's been line bored you might have to get a shorter timing set too.

 

[LOT]

It appears

The engine has been balanced.

 

[slick6732]

Opinion before shop

The reason for the post was to try and get a ball park guess of what was going on in there. You can see on the counter weight #1 it has a piece missing out of it, just looks like crank has knicked the inside of the block, obviously the bearings are spun, could it be as easy as buying a new crank and matching bearings and having a professional install it? I guess my reason for the question stems back to a very bad rebuild experience a few years back, the oil pump went out of my GN and took the car to a shop to have the motor pulled and completely rebuilt. long story short, the shop turned the crank put in oversized bearings and charged me 3,300.00.
Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated!!!!!! besides find another shop

 

[pmoore4321]

Did you find the broken piece in the oil pan? Are you sure the crank hit the block? I don't know that anything is "obvious" from the pics.

 

[hemi8]

It looks like you are in Indiana, you have access to the best Turbo Buick engine builder in the land. Go visit DLS and talk to Dan, you'll learn more in 20 min with him and kicking around his shop than you will in a year on the board.
Mike

 

[pmoore4321]

I say pull the crank, leave the bearings in place, and shoot us a pic. I am curious now.

 

[slick6732]

A few pictures of bearings

OK I took a few pictures of first two main bearings. Yeah I found the piece, was a sliver, It did look like a gold mine in the bottom of the pan.
DLS where is this shop located? Would like to talk to Dan

 

[mikestertwo]

That piece missing out of the crank looks like it is from balancing. The notch in the block looks like it was put there with a die grinder for clearance on #1 rod.

 

[bison]

Check for spun cam bearing on the #2 location

 

[WarWagon]

It may be trashed but the block is damn clean on the inside.

 

[bison]

It may be trashed but the block is damn clean on the inside.

I doubt its clean. He said the bottom of the pan looked like a gold mine. Likely metal shavings in every oil passage and crevice.

 

[WarWagon]

OK I took a few pictures of first two main bearings. Yeah I found the piece, was a sliver, It did look like a gold mine in the bottom of the pan.
DLS where is this shop located? Would like to talk to Dan

I saw that. But you know what I mean, it's not stained brown or black like a high mileage street engine. No doubt there is shrapnel in the pan, no pic of that.

 

[TurboDave]

Is that thrust bearing tore up as bad as the picture seems to indicate?
Or is it just the way the light is shining on it?
It appears to be shredded badly!!!

 

[charlief1]

I'm with Dave. I don't think I've ever seen a thrust bearing like that before. Hope you didn't hurt the crank.

 

[slick6732]

No its not the light playing tricks, The thrust bearing is pretty tore up.
The engine was rebuilt not to long before I bought the car, The gentleman that owned it before me. Ran it down the quarter in 1st then 2nd, Thinking that hes was in 2nd starting out going to 3rd. He started the car for me before I bought it and you could hear it knock upon start up, After building a bit of oil pressure the knock went away completely and the car idled very smoothly. Just hoping that I can fix it, without dumping to much money into it.
I appreciate you all taking the time to help me out!!!!!!

 

[slick6732]

Any tricks to getting all the debris out of the block and passages? Was told to put oil pan back on, put kerosene in it and manually run the oil pump. Don't know if I like the sound of that. Suggestions?

 

[charlief1]

There's no easy fix here. You'll need to take it apart and have it cleaned to make sure all the trash is out of it. Replace cam bearings, pull the freeze and oil plugs to make sure there's nothing left of the debris.