Bottem end plan

[cracker]

Just after some suggestion on my turbo buick bottem end im building
im using buick turbo two dot rods beam polished with arp bolts and cast fedurgal moungral pistons
the block is being bore .40thou and im using the rings that came with the pistons, the whole lots going to be balanced-(vin c crank needs weight added to counter the heavier piston/rod combo)

Now, in terms of holding the crank where it should be what should be my plan of attack, the block as powedered steel main caps with stock bolts, should i source a set of arp studs? should i try and used some larger cast main bolts? or not worry about it?

What should i do for my head gaskets, mr machine shop said that the block should be decked if i want to run cometic gaskets too insure a perfect seal
should i go this path with the decking and cometics, or run standard style graphite head gaskets, should i use arp studs? or not worry about it

Also what sort of rpm will buick two rods with the arp bolts take with out stressing them out too much

Im aiming for around 250-300rwkw with this bottem end with around 15-20psi of boost from a garrett ball bearing turbocharger.
Iis there anything else i should consider before putting it all together? any advice would be great thanks.

 

[charlief1]

First, get rid of the cast pistons. They might hold up for a little while but forged is the only way to go. Stud top and bottom. The heads should be bolted on to do an align bore and torque plates for the borring and honing. When balancing use mallory metal to acheive the best results. It adds weight. Polish all surfaces of the crank that aren't machined to remove stress locations.

 

[bison]

If you have to add more than a couple ounces of mallory then sell the crank and buy a forged one. it will be cheaper. Mallory is too expensive to add in a bunch. Especially on a stock crank.

 

[cracker]

I realise that fordged pistons are the best way to go, but it is quite achievable to run anywhere from 12-18psi of boost on standard vin c pistons and rods with out a problem and thats with 8.5.1-9.0.1 compression and around 240-280rwkw
these pistons are much weaker and lighter then the buick turbo ones.
Thanks for the reply what do you mean polish the crank? remove all the casting dags? and just head studs and not worry about the mains?
as for the crank im australia so id imagine it would cost a monster to import a crank pistons and rods where $80 postage alone plus i dont think ur crank will fit my block, by the looks if things they would probaley only suit our early model v6 motor

 

[49-blues]

What is a vin "C" crank? does it have rolled fillets on the rods and mains?

 

[charlief1]

Studs for the top and bottom end for sure. Polish all unmachined surfaces of the crank. The throws, the angles, ect. If it hasn't been machined get rid of any casting flaws on it. Takes a while but it keeps from developing stress locations on the crank. Glad to see someone over the pond is interested in a real car.

 

[cracker]

vin c is the motor that came out in ur fwd cars in like 1990-1992ish
not sure if its rolled filleted crank or not no one over has ever really had a problem breaking a crank, few people have smashed pistons with pinging and iv done **** loads of head gaskets due to poor engine tune