Boost issue/knock

MONSTER GN

Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2008
Ok, here i am again with the 87 thats driving me insane, i have good fuel pressure with a hotwire kit, no vacuum leaks, and fixed the exhaust leak today. My probleme is the car just doesnt move like i know it should, im not really getting anyboost until about 3,000rpm, i can hear it whistling at 2,000rpm but no pull, even when it does boost at 15lbs it just doesnt feel powerful, what could this be? Did i get got on another turbo? Or am i missing something? The tires dont even lightup on this thing,and the block is built with good valve springs. Everything else is factory minus the cam. And now that i sealed up the exhaust leak im watching my knock creep up into the yellow in my caspers gauge during boost, it has the factory knock sensor. Is this normal or an overly sensitive knock sensor? This car is driving me insane but i refuse to give up
 
First and foremost, get a scan tool on there so that you can monitor how much, if any, knock retard the ECM is actually generating. Those knock gauges aren't providing anything useful.
Second, get a socket to fit it and then re-torque the knock sensor to proper value (14 lb/ft)
Third make sure you do in fact have NO more pre turbo exhaust leaks.
 
First and foremost, get a scan tool on there so that you can monitor how much, if any, knock retard the ECM is actually generating. Those knock gauges aren't providing anything useful.
Second, get a socket to fit it and then re-torque the knock sensor to proper value (14 lb/ft)
Third make sure you do in fact have NO more pre turbo exhaust leaks.
I will smoke test it here in a few minutes and let you know my results but im pretty sure it should all be sealed it
 
If it's boosting but not making power I would check the cam.

Also make sure the exhaust is not plugged.
 
Intake lobe would decrease fuel and air to the cylinder. Exhaust lobe would not let combustion escape. When a exhaust lobe is worn you will hear a rythmic popping when you get into it. The popping goes away when you let off and is not noticeable under normal driving. A intake lobe on the other hand will simply starv the motor of air and fuel resulting in loss of power.
 
Intake lobe would decrease fuel and air to the cylinder. Exhaust lobe would not let combustion escape. When a exhaust lobe is worn you will hear a rythmic popping when you get into it. The popping goes away when you let off and is not noticeable under normal driving. A intake lobe on the other hand will simply starv the motor of air and fuel resulting in loss of power.
Oooooo i thought u meant like my cam itself is causing my issue, the cam lobes should be good the rockers are still tight, the engine runs great just when it goes to boost i feel like it should have alot more, i hace my snapon brick scanner in here now and im trying to reset the iac but its only showing me iac position and not counts and its near 80 and the bump stop screw isnt even touching the throttle.....
 
First and foremost, get a scan tool on there so that you can monitor how much, if any, knock retard the ECM is actually generating. Those knock gauges aren't providing anything useful.
Second, get a socket to fit it and then re-torque the knock sensor to proper value (14 lb/ft)
Third make sure you do in fact have NO more pre turbo exhaust leaks.
Put a new turbo on (new to me) that is guaranteed to be good from one of the guys here to replace my old turbo that has ZERO shaft play but sounded like a garbage disposal. After doing so my boost still sucks but knock is down. I still show a little bit (not much)but dont have a number for you unfortunately
 
Are you running a catalytic converter?
If so, best to remove it and check to see if it's plugged up. That'll kill spool up and performance too.

So what torque convertor did you change to? a factory D5 or 10" 2800 stall?......either should fix your problem.
 
Wastegate puck sealing properly? Wastegate Hoses installed the right directions?
 
Are you running a catalytic converter?
If so, best to remove it and check to see if it's plugged up. That'll kill spool up and performance too.

So what torque convertor did you change to? a factory D5 or 10" 2800 stall?......either should fix your problem.
Im on the hunt for a d5 and yea i have a cat :/
 
Wastegate puck sealing properly? Wastegate Hoses installed the right directions?
Wastegate puck is good i have 3 of those housings now but i used the housing off the known good turboas well and yes the straight of the y fitting is going to the compressor housing
 
Im on the hunt for a d5 and yea i have a cat :/
Be careful on your D5. I had one in my car that was a reman. Stamped D5, stalled 2200@0". Never ran right with my TE44. It was okay with a stock turbo, but sucked with the 44. I scored a stock, unopened low mile D5 and slapped it in yesterday. It made a noticeable difference in the car. I have not put the 44 back on yet, but I'm expecting it to run pretty well with it.
 
Be careful on your D5. I had one in mycar that was a reman. Stamped D5, stalled 2200@0". Never ran right with my TE44. It was okay with a stock turbo, but sucked with the 44. I scored a stock, unopened low mile D5 and slapped it in yesterday. It made a noticeable difference in the car. I have not put the 44 back on yet, but I'm expecting it to run pretty well with it.
Ive noticed that alot of theseREMAN places are lowering the stall speed in these converters, when i thought i could get a d5 or a b15 whatever it is now the stall speed is 1,300 and they r saying thats what the GNs came with and im telling them to pound sand. And most places when they look it upby application the best u can get is an 1,800 before you have to get a "performance" converter
 
And really, there is more to it than just stall speed. There was a little bit of "magic" in the stator on a real BRF D5. It multiplies the torque different from the others.

Also, I would ditch the cat first...if you live where you can.
 
You better check that your getting enough fuel,also if cat is plugged boost will rise wont make any power but exhaust pressure will back up in manifold and cause excessive manifold pressure.
 
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