boost flutter at wot along with sputtering

[TurboBuRick]

What a kick in the balls.

Here is another possibility. Running a ls1 maf draw through set up, it is prone to triggering fuel during boost surge, adding insult to injury.

Just for kicks try running with the maf disconnected. Unplug the stock maf harness from the translator and see if it runs any different?

Does this motor have a steel crank? How old is crank sensor? Did I ask you that already? :biggrin:

 

[4-71/Z-28]

will i just run on off a map if the maf is unplugged? is it safe under boost?

 

[meanchicken]

I'm not pretending to be an expert, but the changes you made are significant and if your chip isn't burned for your current combo....that's another straw in the basket that you should remove.....especially if you have signals of leaning out on top under boost . Your fuel and timing are not set for the current combo and that combo definitely breaths better than your old one so even if you were still at 15lbs....you'd still be moving a ton more air and would need more fuel to go with it.

Call Eric at TurboTweak and get his thoughts and get a chip that matches the combo. He turns them pretty quick for customers in need.

 

[TurboBuRick]

will i just run on off a map if the maf is unplugged? is it safe under boost?

Not the map. It will calculate fuel based on tps and rpm. Don't go crazy. Just see if it works.

I don't think the chip being a little off would cause these issues.

 

[bmackinnon]

I'm not pretending to be an expert, but the changes you made are significant and if your chip isn't burned for your current combo....that's another straw in the basket that you should remove.....especially if you have signals of leaning out on top under boost . Your fuel and timing are not set for the current combo and that combo definitely breaths better than your old one so even if you were still at 15lbs....you'd still be moving a ton more air and would need more fuel to go with it.

Call Eric at TurboTweak and get his thoughts and get a chip that matches the combo. He turns them pretty quick for customers in need.

+1 - Couldn't have said it better myself.... definitely moving way more air, and TT chips use the maf until it hits 255 (early/easy with your combo), and then it's just the fuel map (tps/rpm/PE/LV8/etc) he puts in it (of course with O2 compensation), which, with a stock/ta49 burn, is obviously not looking for big turbo/heads airflow numbers... likely resulting in a lean condition up top with your combo...

 

[stagemonster]

+1 on mass air flow my car did the same thing and i unpluged it and it ran fine. got a new maf and it runs fine.

 

[Clark6]

[Clark6 quote] Post 20

and other than the valve train , which i doubt if its not idling bad, i dont know unless it is a loose/broken wire somewhere on that car but who knows I wonder if the chip was burned for the NEW head set up or if it needs to be, i know i put all that info down when i got my chip from eric.[/QUOTE]



If it works lets just say i mentioned it first:tongue:
If not then " man i told you that wasnt it" thats the way my boss do me and other guys at work.lol.

 

[QUIP'6']

So it ran good for a month (on the TT ta49 chip) WITH the new combo? and the problem appeared out of nowhere?

it ran good yes but with low boost and the chip set up for max percentage on wot on all gears and timing 20/18 pump gas no alky. then i got alky and raised the boost and it started doing this

What a kick in the balls.

Here is another possibility. Running a ls1 maf draw through set up, it is prone to triggering fuel during boost surge, adding insult to injury.

Just for kicks try running with the maf disconnected. Unplug the stock maf harness from the translator and see if it runs any different?

Does this motor have a steel crank? How old is crank sensor? Did I ask you that already? :biggrin:

never had a problem with this setup before. i disconnected it and it stalls when i give it any gas. stock crank with a new crank sensor

I'm not pretending to be an expert, but the changes you made are significant and if your chip isn't burned for your current combo....that's another straw in the basket that you should remove.....especially if you have signals of leaning out on top under boost . Your fuel and timing are not set for the current combo and that combo definitely breaths better than your old one so even if you were still at 15lbs....you'd still be moving a ton more air and would need more fuel to go with it.

Call Eric at TurboTweak and get his thoughts and get a chip that matches the combo. He turns them pretty quick for customers in need.

yes never got my chip done yet. i know it is my stupidity will send it in this week

[Clark6 quote] Post 20

and other than the valve train , which i doubt if its not idling bad, i dont know unless it is a loose/broken wire somewhere on that car but who knows I wonder if the chip was burned for the NEW head set up or if it needs to be, i know i put all that info down when i got my chip from eric. if it works lets just say i mentioned it first:tongue:
If not then " man i told you that wasnt it" thats the way my boss do me and other guys at work.lol.

why would you think that it idles bad? my car runs beautiful till it reaches full boost

 

[Clark6]

why would you think that it idles bad? my car runs beautiful till it reaches full boost[/QUOTE]


Ok let me redo this to get the misunderstanding out the way:redface:
let me get rid of some of my statement so that i wont take what i was tryin 2 say out of context what i was tryin to say was.

[Clark6 quote] Post 20

but who knows I wonder if the chip was burned for the NEW head set up or if it needs to be, i know i put all that info down when i got my chip from eric.

when i dont separate commas, periods, or start new sentences and things run together my wife says it looks like im rambling sorry for the confusion I understood you were idling great until full boost.:wink: but like Rick say it May not have anything to do with it, but im just thinkin of all that AIR and gas ratio uptop; is it right via chip. maybe, maybe not. we'll see. hope we or someone find the problem , later Quip. keep tryin you'll get it.

 

[QUIP'6']

why would you think that it idles bad? my car runs beautiful till it reaches full boost

thanks for all your help. i hope i figure the problem out.


Ok let me redo this to get the misunderstanding out the way:redface:
let me get rid of some of my statement so that i wont take what i was tryin 2 say out of context what i was tryin to say was.





when i dont separate commas, periods, or start new sentences and things run together my wife says it looks like im rambling sorry for the confusion I understood you were idling great until full boost.:wink: but like Rick say it May not have anything to do with it, but im just thinkin of all that AIR and gas ratio uptop; is it right via chip. maybe, maybe not. we'll see. hope we or someone find the problem , later Quip. keep tryin you'll get it.[/QUOTE]

 

[QUIP'6']

well i got my chip back from eric and he did a beautiful job as always idles way better thatn before but it is still doing the same thing. i get to full boost and it sputters and holds back like it is losing power. this is at 24 psi a blip of knock it will shift then when the rpms are at 4800 it lays down and sputters again. i am at a loss here the only options left are camshaft and headgasket. i tried a new module and coil pack, crank sensor, actuator and turbo, plugs and plug gap. numbers on scanmaster are perfect or almost perfect. 3/4 pedal it is fine.

 

[NCTURBOS]

well i got my chip back from eric and he did a beautiful job as always idles way better thatn before but it is still doing the same thing. i get to full boost and it sputters and holds back like it is losing power. this is at 24 psi a blip of knock it will shift then when the rpms are at 4800 it lays down and sputters again. i am at a loss here the only options left are camshaft and headgasket. i tried a new module and coil pack, crank sensor, actuator and turbo, plugs and plug gap. numbers on scanmaster are perfect or almost perfect. 3/4 pedal it is fine.

Powerlogger files? What's it do when you turn off the alky and run race gas?

3/4 pedal @ 4800rpm is fine, but w.o.t. @ 4800rpm it pops... Correct? And it does it the same way no matter where the boost is, correct?


K.

 

[QUIP'6']

Powerlogger files? What's it do when you turn off the alky and run race gas?

3/4 pedal @ 4800rpm is fine, but w.o.t. @ 4800rpm it pops... Correct? And it does it the same way no matter where the boost is, correct?


K.

have no powerlogger yet. idle to 3/4 pedal it is fine just wot no matter where the boost is. at 15 with the alky off and the timing turned down it sputters when it hits 4800 rpm.

 

[Razor]

Is the car clean if you part throttle it and hold lets say 8-12 PSI boost? Or does it surge?.. like wop wop wop wop

 

[QUIP'6']

Is the car clean if you part throttle it and hold lets say 8-12 PSI boost? Or does it surge?.. like wop wop wop wop

i can hold it part throttle at 13 max if i go to 14 to 15 at a 1/4 pedal it surges but 3/4 pedal it will go through all gears fine lets say 20 psi but if i slowly increase to full throttle it sputters out the exhaust and the boost gauge flutters 20 to 24 back and forth and the power falls off

 

[meanchicken]

You running a cat or a test pipe?

The reason I ask is, I just reinstalled my cat getting ready for smog and I noticed the power kinda falls off in the upper RPM now. Doesn't sputter or anything....just feels like it runs into a wall a little. This is at 20lbs of boost. I also recall that my old original cat when it was clogged caused my car to nose over pretty good at WOT and upper RPM at only 16lbs of boost.

Since you've dang near tried everything, and don't have Powerlogger files for these guys to gander at....figured I'd ask about the cat or test pipe thinking that the restriction there if you're running a cat...epsecially an old clogged one....might be a problem.

 

[QUIP'6']

You running a cat or a test pipe?

The reason I ask is, I just reinstalled my cat getting ready for smog and I noticed the power kinda falls off in the upper RPM now. Doesn't sputter or anything....just feels like it runs into a wall a little. This is at 20lbs of boost. I also recall that my old original cat when it was clogged caused my car to nose over pretty good at WOT and upper RPM at only 16lbs of boost.

Since you've dang near tried everything, and don't have Powerlogger files for these guys to gander at....figured I'd ask about the cat or test pipe thinking that the restriction there if you're running a cat...epsecially an old clogged one....might be a problem.

nice one but i have a test pipe. i wish it was a minor thing like that. do you think it could be a head gasket?

 

[twodafloor]

not following

what is making you think the head gasket is the problem- it should show up at pretty much all operating ranges. any oil contamination?

 

[QUIP'6']

what is making you think the head gasket is the problem- it should show up at pretty much all operating ranges. any oil contamination?

no oil contaminates just though maybe the graphite is gone between the cylinders and lifting under boost causing fluctuation between cylinders. or maybe the cam lobes

 

[Razor]

Its like this, if you change themain three parts.. ecm, MAF, coilpack/ignition module.. and your problem is still there.. your in trouble. If you havent swapped all of those with known working units.. then that is your next step.

Look at your AF on your scanmaster make sure it goes to 255, make sure you didnt set your translator wrong, make sure TPS goes over 4 volts, make sure O2's are in the low 800's when you go WOT, confirm you dont have a BL issue on your scanmaster.. meaning its +-10 from 128 driving, cruising, etc.

You can also try spiking your fuel and run good gas and shut the alky kit off. I had a guy a few years back put ammonia in his tank instead of methanol... he had some drivability issues