did check wires they are 2yrs old and they ohm out in the 300 ohm range. everything is packed with dielectric grease and my 02 sensor is a new gm purple wire. as far as the chip i didnt get it upgraded yet but i did add 12% in a gears wot. i dont know if this is it but last year i got this te-60 and i new the exhaust wheel was bad. it has 1/4 inch of the outer part of the wheel gone. would this cause my problem? i am ordering a new one this week. before i did the head swap i got a slight sputter at wot but you really couldnt feel it. do you think the heads and intake flowing more air intensified the problem?what about the ignition module under the coil pack did you swap?
you say your mafs ok what about a changed ox. sens could be sending a false reading if contaminated.?
So you are idling ok right, no spitting out the exhaust or loping like you have a big cam or something, right? ok.... lets see.
i was reading some where to disconnect the IAC connector, pull a plug wire with insulated pliers one by one then put back on to notice a drop. should be with in 50rpms of each other that may rule out the plugs/ wires (but not the gap and deposit build up).
also to ohm out the wires if it reads 30k ohms or higher --replace. (I keep an old new, cheap set around to swap things out to test like that):biggrin:
aheem. further i also read to check and pull ea. injector with the car idling with the IAC connected to see if theres a difference if you dont have a noid light. could not be gettin enough fuel.
and other than the valve train , which i doubt if its not idling bad, i dont know unless it is a loose/broken wire somewhere on that car but who knows I wonder if the chip was burned for the NEW heads set up or if it needs to be, i know i put all that info down when i got my chip from eric.
boost flutter at wot along with sputtering
- Thread starter QUIP'6'
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Sorry Brian, I don't know why I thought you were someone else.
Couple questions.
Are you hearing ch ch ch ch ch during this condition? (Turbo surge)
Is it more RPM or Bosst related?
Does it seem to be getting worse and worse?
I'm asuming you pulled each lifter to inspect then put them back in the hole they came from.
Couple questions.
Are you hearing ch ch ch ch ch during this condition? (Turbo surge)
Is it more RPM or Bosst related?
Does it seem to be getting worse and worse?
I'm asuming you pulled each lifter to inspect then put them back in the hole they came from.
yes that is the sound. if you hold it half throttle and get to 10 psi it will buck and sneeze the same if you go wide open it sputters and bucks and noses over. it is boost related. yes i inspected the lifters
getting worse after the combination. i am wondering if the already broken in cam doesnt like the newer springs. by the way did you read the part that my turbo wheel on the exhaust side has a quarter inch of the od gone. would this cause the boost gauge to flutter? i ordered a new turbo will be here this week so i will see also my puck isnt sealing the hole all the way it has a quarter moon shape that is uncovered someone over ported the hole
Lots of possibilities, it's always difficult to determine a drivability issue over the phone or keyboard. The camshaft could be suspect, you know the turbo has issues regardless as well. I would definitely repair any current problems that you know of first, whether they're related to the drivability problem or not. From there it should be easier to diagnose...
Do you have a Powerlogger or Direct Scan? Any log files?
K.
I'm thinking it may not be surge because it didn't fix with more boost, and it doesn't do it with full boost and 3/4 throtle. What does you're battery voltage look like at wot, that's what I would check. Wires, coil, module may be ok but if you're seeing low voltage at wot this could lead to a weak spark until it just noses over. It sounds just like surge though??? What size intercooler are you running?
i fot a new turbo coming tommorow. and i dont have a powerlogger yet. today i noticed the middle wire in my cam sensor wire engine side was frayed bad. as for the powerlogger was going to get it till this issue arrose
voltage is ok as for the innercooler it is a 23row stretched. tried a module and coilpack and wires ohm out good. what do you mean it doenst do it with full boost? i said that it did do it as well as part throttle, i hope i am not confusing you
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Brian, after reading your post about pushrods not being under all the rockers, Is it possible one is slightly bent? Have you had another look at the valvetrain?
I would pull the valve covers and at least look. Run the motor, see if anyting jumps out.
I would pull the valve covers and at least look. Run the motor, see if anyting jumps out.
nice memory rick but that was about 2 years ago and the heads been off 2 times since then and i always roll them on glass before install. thanks
update
well i got a new turbo and it is doing the same thing!!!! so i disconnected the wastegate and took it out with no boost and from a dead stop it takes off and when it hit 4800 it pops and noses over and its like the car shuts off till i let off the gas then it comes back. with the boost it sputters and pops. could this be the ignition module? i tried the coil pack
well i got a new turbo and it is doing the same thing!!!! so i disconnected the wastegate and took it out with no boost and from a dead stop it takes off and when it hit 4800 it pops and noses over and its like the car shuts off till i let off the gas then it comes back. with the boost it sputters and pops. could this be the ignition module? i tried the coil pack
Check the fuel pressure @ wot & ign. module first. Then get a powerlogger and get some logging files...
So with boost (15+psi), below 4800rpm it runs fine?
K.
fuel pressure is fine and yes under 15 psi its fine. even with the wastgate disconnected it just dies at wot at 4800
Quip you need some type of automotive scope so you can ride around & record this thing thats happening. if it had 2 oxygen sensors (which we dont) you could datalog each one to atleast find out which bank/side it was happening on. poppin is lean i believe but that could be ignition or weak or bad pump. so i dont know bud, leave the waste gate off like you've been doin and just eeaaassseee into it slowly up to or past 4800 rpm. to see if it does it.
If it wasnt for the poppin i'd tell you to disconnect the tcc wire and go it with tied up so it wont lock up & see what that does but you said its poppin & that throws that out i think a tranny wouldnt make it pop.. gotta be a bad or loose wire somewhere if its not the ign. me too.
hope u find it dont give up. heck try anything try a different ecm if you have a spare.
If it wasnt for the poppin i'd tell you to disconnect the tcc wire and go it with tied up so it wont lock up & see what that does but you said its poppin & that throws that out i think a tranny wouldnt make it pop.. gotta be a bad or loose wire somewhere if its not the ign.
me too.hope u find it dont give up. heck try anything try a different ecm if you have a spare.
Quip you need some type of automotive scope so you can ride around & record this thing thats happening. if it had 2 oxygen sensors (which we dont) you could datalog each one to atleast find out which bank/side it was happening on. poppin is lean i believe but that could be ignition or weak or bad pump. so i dont know bud, leave the waste gate off like you've been doin and just eeaaassseee into it slowly up to or past 4800 rpm. to see if it does it.
If it wasnt for the poppin i'd tell you to disconnect the tcc wire and go it with tied up so it wont lock up & see what that does but you said its poppin & that throws that out i think a tranny wouldnt make it pop.. gotta be a bad or loose wire somewhere if its not the ign.
hope u find it dont give up. heck try anything try a different ecm if you have a spare.
eased into it in every gear with the wastegate off and it just noses over and cuts out until i lift off the throttle
Eric Stage I
TurboTweak Guy
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I wouldn't put too much time into testing with the wastegate disconnected, as it may throw the whole fuel curve off and fall on it's face.
Eric
Eric
A bad ignition module, especially once it get hots, will shut the car down. In most cases where I have seen this happen, the car will not start back up until the module cools itself back down again.
K.
its worse with boost
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