Basic Bolt Ons (stockish) Mods List!!

Good info here guys. Im getting the message. Upgrade fuel system (i wouldn't do injectors without the pump and the harness and regulator) + move air in and exhaust out as fast as possible+standard performance chip and i should be good! Didnt really want to mess with the MAF if i dont have to. Know people who have had problems after doing such.
 
I don't agree here... stock intercooler has gone low 11's... stock down pipe isn't a problem at all until mid 11's and you gain nothing on a 12 second car.. proven over and over again
stock injectors are questionable @ 12.50 on a 100K mile car .. I would change them for sure .. injector tech has gone long way since 87 !! .. newer style injectors with a Turbo Tweak chip and your set !

Stock Valve springs @ 100K miles are TOAST .. I guarantee it !!!
Wouldn't i need to upgrade the stock fuel system to run bigger injectors effectively?
 
What exactly is a Dut-neck mod to the intercooler? Thanks

Here is a Dut-neck type mod to a stock intercooler.

The restrictive sharp turn is eliminated and the inlet diameter is increased, and both of these mods greatly reduce the restriction in airflow.

DUT NECK 1.jpg
DUT NECK 2.jpg
 
Wouldn't i need to upgrade the stock fuel system to run bigger injectors effectively?


pump , and hotwire on these cars is 2nd on list compared to going through all the stock stuff and making sure its A1 ... plugs, wires, fix exhaust header cracks. ... etc etc

when it runs GOOD in stock form .. then you can start turning it up and adding hi-po parts
 
For mid to high 12's your way way over thinking this ...

First step is to get everything cleaned up and just functioning at stock levels.
Second step for mid 12's and slower all you need is a fuel pump and chip with a basic datalogger .. I would do the valve springs but the comps wouldn't be my first choice .

with just an airfilter , chip, fuel pump, springs, basic datalogger .. 12.50-12.70 isn't a problem,

Don't waste your money on crap you don't need .. spend the money where the returns are highest ... don't try to invent the wheel !
What valve springs would you reccomend? Ive heard of people using 110# LT1 replacement valve springs but also have heard people say too many lbs put wear on the camshaft. Thats why they the comps.
 
You can disagree all you like, but on the many 12 sec. cars I have done there was a .2ths improvement on actual track testing for each of the additions 3" DP and the IC Dut neck, so that was not opinion, but actual data.

Go back to an old copy of the GSXtra where we published the results of these changes on a stock GN at Bowling Green years ago which will verify my numbers with a stock turbo.

From your aggressive comments, I guess you may have done many GN's in this range, but my results and experience have shown stock injectors are NOT questionable at mid 12's, and have seen many 12 sec. GN's that have valve springs that are NOT toast, including my original 1987 turbo car.

I started my reply by stating an "opinion" which is based upon many, many turbo car builds , and I do understand there is more than one way to accomplish a goal, but it appears your voice is the only one that counts here?


No need to get testy ... I simply disagree with your findings as they aren't at all what I've seen or encountered on 100's of turbo buicks I've setup in this range ... Sorry Nick .. just ain.t so .
Maybe the Arizona air is way different :)

Can a 3" DP give you .2 .. sure if you dump the cat and put in a test pipe at the same time .. but it didn't come from just the DP.. truth is you can get just as much from a simple cleanup of the wastegate housing and taking the CAT out of the picture ... a simple $20 Dump gives you the .2 on a stocker

IF you run a 3" downpipe back to back with a stocker with NO CAT on either ... the 3" won't give you crap on a 12.50 car .. total waste of money. I've proven this to myself
over and over using my own downpipes that I know from track tests ( back to back) are FAR better than the THDP , on a mid to low 11 second car .. sure there is benefit .. not on 12.50's

NO way would I coach someone to leave on 28 year old injectors when they are wanting to turn it up to the point where the stockers (even if they were new) will run out.,, just not logical
and you can't even tell me stock injectors behave and perform anywhere near what the new injectors do ... but again you like the SMARTFIRE injectors so what else can I say :(

As far as valve springs go ... again on a stocker maybe the 28 year old ones have enough left in them on a stocker ... turn the car up from 13 psi to 21 psi with a tune and its a different animal ... NEVER have I seen a tweaked TB with stock springs that DIDN'T gain from a fresh set of springs and yes I've done 100's of them

Not sure why you would steer the guy in the directions you have .. not typical of a veteran ... but as you mentioned ... opinions are just that
 
Why would he need a translator, when a stock MAF can easily be run down into the 10s? Makes no sense and is a total waste of money when his goal is mid 12s. That money could definitely be better spent elsewhere.

You really should look into freeing up your exhaust though. RJC sells a really nice 3" system that maintains a stock appearance. All of his systems and components are made in the USA(expect his 5" dp). I'd personally stay away from anything GN1.
 
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As far as the MAF goes it's more maintenacne vs mod. Stock MAFs that function correctly are becoming unicorns. The replacements are spotty at best. Worst thing is they can be thought to be OK and then suddenly crap out. Once replaced it's realized the car is now running much better, the original was slowly failing and not noticed. I would put a free flowing exhaust on the list. The stock system is a huge cork. These cars are coming on 30 years old. Pretty much any part, mechanical or electrical can be source of problems on a pure stock car. Any mods for preformance finds the weak links quickly.
 
Great Info Guys, as of right now here is my updated eventual "to do" list based on the info ive collected! Going for a reliable, conservative, mid-high 12 sec car engine wise. Just looking to wake the car up not to deviate entirely from stock. And honestly really don't plan on taking it to strip. So I'm ok with smoking the skinny stock tires :) this is what I'm most comfortable with.
** = Must have before making more power
* = Things that can wait/not absolutely necessary.

GN Mods:

**Take Care of Business:
Change all fluids and filters Torco Fluids http://torcousa.com/full-line.html
Gas, trans, and oil filters.
New cooling hoses and drive belt
Brake system and rad flush
Change vac lines add zip ties to ends

**2) Spark Plug Wires
http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=98024&cat=51

NGK UR5 Plugs 0.32 gap
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/ngk...xNWKXMdauNNB5GgG3k9mdv_csc8b4uIMoiBoCmd3w_wcB


**3) Big Mouth Shorty Air Intake System/9 inch cone replace air box - S and B Filter
http://buickgn.com/Bigmouthshortstyle.htm

http://www.sbfilters.com/index.php/...lacement-filter-cotton-cleanable-cr-4780.html

*4) Gauges:

On Rail Fuel Pressure Gauge
http://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/111/EFI+FUEL+PRESSURE+MECHANICAL+GAUGE+KIT+#6629.html

Boost Gauge http://www.autometer.com/2-boost-vac-30-in-hg-20-psi-mech-sport-comp.html

Single A Pillar Pod
http://www.kirbanperformance.com/pr...E+A-PILLAR+WINDSHIELD+GAUGE+HOLDER+#1530.html


**5) "Street Chip 1" Turbo Tweak Chip Cotton's Performance http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TTchip

*6) Walbro high pressure/volume 255lph fuel pump http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=F20000169

*7) Hotwire fuel pump harness http://www.cottonsperformance.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=CASP-102028&sprice=&stype=&scat=

*8) Comp 980-12 Valvesprings
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca...M_McHZxrEkeyGqJYxk8Ha6e25a_s8iAM9xhoCRd7w_wcB

**9) Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator OR 237 bosch regulator (ebay $50)
http://www.kirbanperformance.com/pr...ADJUSTABLE+FUEL+PRESSURE+REGULATOR+#6547.html

**10) Scanmaster 2.1 Dash Mounted http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=6783-Buick

**11) Lucas 42lb (01D030B) fuel injectors from Cotton's Performance http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Inj-42

*12) Casper's V Plus Voltage Booster
http://www.kirbanperformance.com/pr...LECTRONICS+V-Plus+VOLT+BOOSTER+KIT+#7505.html

**13) Wastegate Actuator
http://www.cottonsperformance.com/products.asp?cat=103

*14) Terry Houston 3" Downpipe with dump tube/test pipe/gutted cat.
 
Also would anyone recommend getting it dyno tuned/ know a place/person on or near Long Island, NY? Or would i be ok just slapping everything in with Cotton's TT Street 1 chip. Im not the kind of guy to mess around with configuration using a logger and a laptop.
 
In addition to the above you will need more than 16 psi to run solid 12s.sticky tires,shift kit and transcooler,scanmaster,valve springs,dump tube or gutted cat,in tank fuel pump,and octane in the form of race gas or alky injection with a matching chip.
^agreed. In my opinion you are not getting close to 12's on 16-17 psi on a stock turbo and 93 octane. That might get you into the 13's with your listed mods. You will need alky injection,E-85 or race gas and 23+ psi and traction to get near the 12's.
 
^agreed. In my opinion you are not getting close to 12's on 16-17 psi on a stock turbo and 93 octane. That might get you into the 13's with your listed mods. You will need alky injection,E-85 or race gas and 23+ psi and traction to get near the 12's.
I would be ok with low 13s. Again not looking for a race car, just looking to wake the car up to what today's standard of quick is.
 
Order your chip and injectors from Turbo Tweak. I'ld go to 50s or 60s. Any parts store will have UR5s and spark plug wires. Skip the Volt Booster. Not needed for your goals. Kirban's has a used adjustable waist gate for sale in a thread he just posted.
 
You would be wise to listen to Nick. He knows what he speaks.

Nick, Thank you for your telephone assistance. I found the problem & now all is well.
 
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