Basic Bolt Ons (stockish) Mods List!!

LomoMike

GN Rookie
Joined
Oct 17, 2015
Hey guys, new to the turbo buick game. Got bored and thought up a mods list today. Think i did my HW properly. Check out my master plan. Wanted to keep the major engine components stock (stock turbo, heads, intercooler, no major mods). Maybe get 16-17 lbs of boost on a car with around 100k miles on it. Just a basic list to get a bit of safe reliable power out (360ish rwtq??) and build a mid-high 12's car on a budget. Looking to stay conservative. I put some effort into this so let me hear some opinions. What else would you do/What do you think?
Mods:

1) Change all fluids and filters Torco Fluids http://torcousa.com/full-line.html
Gas, trans, and oil filters.

2) Spark Plug Wires http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MAG-SPW

3) Big Mouth Shorty Air Intake System
http://buickgn.com/Bigmouthshortstyle.htm

4) Gauges:

Rail Mounted Fuel Pressure Gauge http://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/111/EFI+FUEL+PRESSURE+MECHANICAL+GAUGE+KIT+#6629.html

Boost Gauge http://www.autometer.com/2-boost-vac-30-in-hg-20-psi-mech-sport-comp.html

Wide Band Air/Fuel Gauge http://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-wideband-a-f-w-sensor-fse-es.html

5) "Street Chip 1" Turbo Tweak Chip Cotton's Performance http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TTchip

6) Walbro high pressure/volume 255lph fuel pump http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=F20000169

7) Hotwire fuel pump harness http://www.cottonsperformance.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=CASP-102028&sprice=&stype=&scat=

8) Comp 980-12 Valvesprings
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca...M_McHZxrEkeyGqJYxk8Ha6e25a_s8iAM9xhoCRd7w_wcB

9) Accufab Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BREG

10) Scanmaster 2.1 Dash Mounted http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=6783-Buick

11) Lucas 42lb (01D030B) fuel injectors from Cotton's Performance http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Inj-42
 
I'd add to your list a Casper's V Plus Voltage Booster. Simple plug n play, adds 2.2 volts to your car under acceleration. Also, a set of Taylor Thunder Volt 50 10.4mm race wires #98024. The biggest and absolute best performance ignition wires on the market. Plus, you'll need an adjustable wastegate to add boost. They sell a standard(12-22psi) and heavy duty(18-30psi) for our cars. Cotton's should carry em.
 
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You may want to replace all the cooling hoses if you don't know how old they are. Also the drive belt may need replacing,easy enough to check that-take the belt off and look at the ribs as you bend the belt,if you see cracks in them it's time for a new one. Check the condition of the clamps also.

I recommend this adj.fuel press reg. over the Accufab

http://www.kirbanperformance.com/pr...ADJUSTABLE+FUEL+PRESSURE+REGULATOR+#6547.html
 
If you are on a budget I would change a few things. 1) You don't need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator unless your in it for the looks. Just replace your 233 regulator with a 237. That will give you the base 42-43lb pressure you need for the new chip. They are very reliable and readily available at a junk yard on front wheel drive GM vehicles. With your build I see no reason for a wide band. I'm not a big fan of K&N air filters. They let a lot of dirt through and if your car is a daily driver I would go with a paper filter setup. Scanmaster and gauges is a good idea to keep track of things. Fuel system upgrade is pretty much mandatory on these cars. I don't know what you have for a MAF but a LT1 MAF and Translator is a good upgrade. If you still have the stock MAF it will die eventually. One thing you didn't mention was the exhaust. The best bang for the buck is a good design 3 inch down pipe with a free flowing exhaust system. Put your money where it will do the most good if you are on a budget unless your into the "Looks" thing. JMHO
 
IMO scanmaster should be no 1. . . . Before changing to much, get a scan master and power logger, and make sure the car runs as it should on stock boost. Once it does, the remainder of your journey will be a lot cheaper and less discouraging.
 
Injectors are too small. Go big, 80s. Difference in price is not worth having to pay again later.
 
S&B air filter.. Hands down, much better than the others.
Rad flush should be on the list, as well as zip ties on ALL the vac lines. Replace all those before you do the ties.
Brake system flush.. Bet it's 100K old.
Gauges... We use Speedhut. Better choice of design than AM. Mine have warning lites on them, that are adjustable.
The website has a neat deal, in that you can change the gauge options and see what it looks like. Mine are blue LED liting.
GNS Performance sells the gauges.
 
You may want to replace all the cooling hoses if you don't know how old they are. Also the drive belt may need replacing,easy enough to check that-take the belt off and look at the ribs as you bend the belt,if you see cracks in them it's time for a new one. Check the condition of the clamps also.

I recommend this adj.fuel press reg. over the Accufab

http://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/224/Billet+Aluminum+ADJUSTABLE+FUEL+PRESSURE+REGULATOR+#6547.html
Thanks for the tip man. What do you mean by the clamps?
 
If you are on a budget I would change a few things. 1) You don't need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator unless your in it for the looks. Just replace your 233 regulator with a 237. That will give you the base 42-43lb pressure you need for the new chip. They are very reliable and readily available at a junk yard on front wheel drive GM vehicles. With your build I see no reason for a wide band. I'm not a big fan of K&N air filters. They let a lot of dirt through and if your car is a daily driver I would go with a paper filter setup. Scanmaster and gauges is a good idea to keep track of things. Fuel system upgrade is pretty much mandatory on these cars. I don't know what you have for a MAF but a LT1 MAF and Translator is a good upgrade. If you still have the stock MAF it will die eventually. One thing you didn't mention was the exhaust. The best bang for the buck is a good design 3 inch down pipe with a free flowing exhaust system. Put your money where it will do the most good if you are on a budget unless your into the "Looks" thing. JMHO
Kind of into the looks, wanted to keep it as "stock appearing" as possible. So 3 inch down pipe is out. I will def cut the cats out tho haha
 
If you are on a budget I would change a few things. 1) You don't need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator unless your in it for the looks. Just replace your 233 regulator with a 237. That will give you the base 42-43lb pressure you need for the new chip. They are very reliable and readily available at a junk yard on front wheel drive GM vehicles. With your build I see no reason for a wide band. I'm not a big fan of K&N air filters. They let a lot of dirt through and if your car is a daily driver I would go with a paper filter setup. Scanmaster and gauges is a good idea to keep track of things. Fuel system upgrade is pretty much mandatory on these cars. I don't know what you have for a MAF but a LT1 MAF and Translator is a good upgrade. If you still have the stock MAF it will die eventually. One thing you didn't mention was the exhaust. The best bang for the buck is a good design 3 inch down pipe with a free flowing exhaust system. Put your money where it will do the most good if you are on a budget unless your into the "Looks" thing. JMHO
Does the translator need to be purchased separately from the Lt1 MAF? And if so where do i get the translator. Cottons has the MAF
 
Here is my opinion based upon what we did 20+ years ago to get a GN to run mid-12's, and is still valid today especially on a budget.

Since HP is all about fuel and air, the stock air box needs to go and a simple 9" cone filter is a good replacement.

Stock injectors will be more than adequate for your goal, and the -237 Bosch regulator will be fine.

There are 2 other very significant items to get air in and out, and they would be a Dut-neck mod to the intercooler, and a 3" down pipe with a test pipe instead of the cat. Keeping the stock DP would be like pissin' up a rope with all else you plan to do!

A Scanmaster is a BIG help, a wide band O2 is really not needed, nor a valve spring change.

I know you will do what you want to do, but this recipe has worked on many GN's for us as long as you have decent tires for traction to get the power to the ground!
 
Hey guys, new to the turbo buick game. Got bored and thought up a mods list today. Think i did my HW properly. Check out my master plan. Wanted to keep the major engine components stock (stock turbo, heads, intercooler, no major mods). Maybe get 16-17 lbs of boost on a car with around 100k miles on it. Just a basic list to get a bit of safe reliable power out (360ish rwtq??) and build a mid-high 12's car on a budget. Looking to stay conservative. I put some effort into this so let me hear some opinions. What else would you do/What do you think?
Mods:

1) Change all fluids and filters Torco Fluids http://torcousa.com/full-line.html
Gas, trans, and oil filters.

2) Spark Plug Wires http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MAG-SPW

3) Big Mouth Shorty Air Intake System
http://buickgn.com/Bigmouthshortstyle.htm

4) Gauges:

Rail Mounted Fuel Pressure Gauge http://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/111/EFI+FUEL+PRESSURE+MECHANICAL+GAUGE+KIT+#6629.html

Boost Gauge http://www.autometer.com/2-boost-vac-30-in-hg-20-psi-mech-sport-comp.html

Wide Band Air/Fuel Gauge http://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-wideband-a-f-w-sensor-fse-es.html

5) "Street Chip 1" Turbo Tweak Chip Cotton's Performance http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TTchip

6) Walbro high pressure/volume 255lph fuel pump http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=F20000169

7) Hotwire fuel pump harness http://www.cottonsperformance.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=CASP-102028&sprice=&stype=&scat=

8) Comp 980-12 Valvesprings
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca...M_McHZxrEkeyGqJYxk8Ha6e25a_s8iAM9xhoCRd7w_wcB

9) Accufab Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BREG

10) Scanmaster 2.1 Dash Mounted http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=6783-Buick

11) Lucas 42lb (01D030B) fuel injectors from Cotton's Performance http://www.cottonsperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Inj-42


For mid to high 12's your way way over thinking this ...

First step is to get everything cleaned up and just functioning at stock levels.
Second step for mid 12's and slower all you need is a fuel pump and chip with a basic datalogger .. I would do the valve springs but the comps wouldn't be my first choice .

with just an airfilter , chip, fuel pump, springs, basic datalogger .. 12.50-12.70 isn't a problem,

Don't waste your money on crap you don't need .. spend the money where the returns are highest ... don't try to invent the wheel !
 
Here is my opinion based upon what we did 20+ years ago to get a GN to run mid-12's, and is still valid today especially on a budget.

Since HP is all about fuel and air, the stock air box needs to go and a simple 9" cone filter is a good replacement.

Stock injectors will be more than adequate for your goal, and the -237 Bosch regulator will be fine.

There are 2 other very significant items to get air in and out, and they would be a Dut-neck mod to the intercooler, and a 3" down pipe with a test pipe instead of the cat. Keeping the stock DP would be like pissin' up a rope with all else you plan to do!

A Scanmaster is a BIG help, a wide band O2 is really not needed, nor a valve spring change.

I know you will do what you want to do, but this recipe has worked on many GN's for us as long as you have decent tires for traction to get the power to the ground!


I don't agree here... stock intercooler has gone low 11's... stock down pipe isn't a problem at all until mid 11's and you gain nothing on a 12 second car.. proven over and over again
stock injectors are questionable @ 12.50 on a 100K mile car .. I would change them for sure .. injector tech has gone long way since 87 !! .. newer style injectors with a Turbo Tweak chip and your set !

Stock Valve springs @ 100K miles are TOAST .. I guarantee it !!!
 
I did roughly the same mod to my stocker , best bang for the buck was a CAI and a THDP , get it in and get it out plus the bigger injectors are there if you want to grow some more later on
 
In addition to the above you will need more than 16 psi to run solid 12s.sticky tires,shift kit and transcooler,scanmaster,valve springs,dump tube or gutted cat,in tank fuel pump,and octane in the form of race gas or alky injection with a matching chip.
 
Here is my opinion based upon what we did 20+ years ago to get a GN to run mid-12's, and is still valid today especially on a budget.

Since HP is all about fuel and air, the stock air box needs to go and a simple 9" cone filter is a good replacement.

Stock injectors will be more than adequate for your goal, and the -237 Bosch regulator will be fine.

There are 2 other very significant items to get air in and out, and they would be a Dut-neck mod to the intercooler, and a 3" down pipe with a test pipe instead of the cat. Keeping the stock DP would be like pissin' up a rope with all else you plan to do!

A Scanmaster is a BIG help, a wide band O2 is really not needed, nor a valve spring change.

I know you will do what you want to do, but this recipe has worked on many GN's for us as long as you have decent tires for traction to get the power to the ground!
What exactly is a Dut-neck mod to the intercooler? Thanks
 
Lots of good info for you here. A note on injectors and chips, I would go to at least 50s so you can use the TT 6.1 chip. It can be run without a wide band until you want. I also like the idea of having the Powerlogger for logging runs. Aside for tuning, it can be very helpful to monitor the systems for issues. I recommend S&B filters as well. That fuel gauge is junk, super inaccurate, don't bother. Before you even think about mods first do a complete replacing of all the rubber hoses and couplers.
A Dutt neck is an aluminum larger diameter neck that replaces the stock restrictive one on the intercooler. It must be welded on. You can also find used ones here too.
 
I don't agree here... stock intercooler has gone low 11's... stock down pipe isn't a problem at all until mid 11's and you gain nothing on a 12 second car.. proven over and over again
stock injectors are questionable @ 12.50 on a 100K mile car .. I would change them for sure .. injector tech has gone long way since 87 !! .. newer style injectors with a Turbo Tweak chip and your set !

Stock Valve springs @ 100K miles are TOAST .. I guarantee it !!!

You can disagree all you like, but on the many 12 sec. cars I have done there was a .2ths improvement on actual track testing for each of the additions 3" DP and the IC Dut neck, so that was not opinion, but actual data.

Go back to an old copy of the GSXtra where we published the results of these changes on a stock GN at Bowling Green years ago which will verify my numbers with a stock turbo.

From your aggressive comments, I guess you may have done many GN's in this range, but my results and experience have shown stock injectors are NOT questionable at mid 12's, and have seen many 12 sec. GN's that have valve springs that are NOT toast, including my original 1987 turbo car.

I started my reply by stating an "opinion" which is based upon many, many turbo car builds , and I do understand there is more than one way to accomplish a goal, but it appears your voice is the only one that counts here?
 
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