Bad ECM?

[TurboBuRick]

Bob will check and/or replace the chip. As you know he's a great guy. Just put a few bux in the box so he can get a cheeseburger. Those are his favorite. :biggrin:

 

[Steve V]

Update...1st a thanks to Bob for sending me a chip.Bob I owe you one.

Bad news is something is still screwed up. Driving along at 60mph it hickuped 1 time and I saw ses light flash. It was fine the rest of the way to work. On the way home hickuped twice waiting for the ferry and I had the scanmaster on code screen and it did not set one.

Thinking it was the ecm,once on the ferry I banged on the ecm and it hickuped,did it again and it stalled. Absoultely sure it was the ecm I swapped them on the boat and car would not crank. I had 2 spare ecms 2 chips tried all in different combos and it would not fire. We pushed it off the ferry,parked it. Checked spark and it had spark,it tried to start also. Hooked up the plug wires and played with the gas and it fired up.

Drove it 15 miles home on the country roads with out issue. Get home beat on the ECM and it stalls. Tried my spares and one has a pin problem at the chip socket. If you squeeze the chip it goes crazy so that the socket that need replacement.

I am think I new to get a reman(cardone) ecm and go from there.

My wideband is stuck on 10.0 but blms are good and so are my o2s maybe a different issue. Sure wish I had the powerlogger today! Cars gonna sit for a while as wife is 9mons pregnant and my schedule is packed. Can't chance driving it if its unrelieable.

My white T runs good so atleast I have another test bed for parts.

 

[Steve V]

Today I installed a reman ECM after modding it for powerlogger. Would not start. Had fire,no injector pulse. Cam sensor was my guess. Hit the akly while cranking and it started and kept running. Mess with it for a while and it start sometimes but mostly not with help from alky. Swapped cam sensor cap,crank sensor,coil/module, grounds,cables nothing. Finally tried another ECM and started everytime. Had the powerlogger recording while I was messing with bad ECM in my other car. I heard the GN hickup. I went to the file and batt,rpm went to zero for a split second. My guess is the alternator shorted out internally for a second. That would explain chip reseting to antitheft mode. Don't think it a battery as it's new also.

So I have another ECM coming and will warranty the alternator and go from there.

 

[TurboBob]

the new ecm sounds like the fuel pump output is not working.

the old ecm: the rpm and battery going to zero could be a "running reset". which could be a bad ecm, connector pin, etc...

Good luck with the troubleshooting, sounds like a good ECM will get you fixed up.

Bob

 

[aminga]

FWIW Rockauto had some specials on federal mogul remanned ECM's a few months back. Might be worth checking

 

[Steve V]

Thanks Bob,why would I still have no injector pulse(noid light) if the fuel pump output was inop?

I WILL fix this MOFO!:biggrin:

 

[TurboBob]

yeah, missed that part.

You'll get it.....

Bob

 

[Steve V]

Messed with it some more tonite. It acted up within 1st min of cold start up. Batt,tps,rpm all dropped to 0volts and coolant -140. I had sometime and ran it for a good while with a heavy load on electrical system. Wiggled all around grounds,fuse links,cable,alt,crank,cam,ecm wires nothing. I am waiting on another ECM and alternator. I am also gonna replace battery cables eventhough they look fine.

 

[TurboBuRick]

I wouldn't throw new cables on it. That's just wasting money bro. Really. The cables don't do much once the motor is running. I mean they do but you load test them every time you start the car. If they were failing I would think they would crap out then.

The sensor grounds all go to the back of the head unless they have been relocated. Are yours all still back there? Did you re locate or use a caspers ground kit n any those?

Also thinking about the circuit that feed the ecm. Not the orange wire but the 12v feed from the fuse pannel. From the pin out it looks like A6 pnk/black wire. Maybe rig a light on that sucker so you can see if that power is dropping out.

 

[Steve V]

All good ideas Rick. I wonder if the PL reads the volts off that wire.

Grounds have been moved to an intake stud at the back of the intake when motor was out in 2007. Also had my hands on them lastnite when I had coil pack off. Looked good/clean and tight. I believe that is where the ECM and all sensors get ground.

I don't trust that fuseable link at the positive cable so I did order new ones from John lastnite.

I was under the dash looking for something out of place,wiggling all sorts of wires. I may need to pull out the fuse box and have a good look at that also the ignition switch.

 

[Steve V]

Figured I's post and update. Spent the afternoon replacing battery cables.,removing and cleaning all engine grounds. A waist of time still does the same thing intermitantly of course. I am starting to agree with Rick. A6 circuit 439 feeds the ecm/esc/maf/CCCI ignition. On the power logger I still have a wideand reading,map reading(boost) when everything else drops out. They are not powered from that fuse..ecm/sol..

I am starting to wonder,I have to taps into the fuse block at IGN1 one for wideband another for alky kit. Maybe I have that circuit overloaded? I have the scanmaster at ignition 3.

Tommorrow I will mess with the fuse block and the ignition switch. Starting to lean towards the ignition switch.

 

[HighMileage]

Check your positive battery cable, specifically the orange MEM wire that's fuselinked to the single weatherpack connector.

That's what was wrong with mine. The orange wire right behind the battery. It was plugged into the weatherpack,but not far enough for the locking tab to click. I'd hit a bump,the car would shut off,SES light...coast,then run.....
One of the many problems the car had when I bought it. Thru luck,I found/fixed that one!

Then onto why the brake lights stayed on. The prev owner pulled out all of the bulbs(incl 3rd brake light) instead of pulling the fuse.
The switch had fallen out!

 

[Steve V]

That's what was wrong with mine. The orange wire right behind the battery.

That is not it does it with old and new cable. They are snapped in tight and pins are not bent. Just installed new cables from GNvenom.

 

[aminga]

Figured I's post and update. Spent the afternoon replacing battery cables.,removing and cleaning all engine grounds. A waist of time still does the same thing intermitantly of course. I am starting to agree with Rick. A6 circuit 439 feeds the ecm/esc/maf/CCCI ignition. On the power logger I still have a wideand reading,map reading(boost) when everything else drops out. They are not powered from that fuse..ecm/sol..

I am starting to wonder,I have to taps into the fuse block at IGN1 one for wideband another for alky kit. Maybe I have that circuit overloaded? I have the scanmaster at ignition 3.

Tommorrow I will mess with the fuse block and the ignition switch. Starting to lean towards the ignition switch.

If it were overloaded wouldn't you be able to see the voltage drop on that circuit.

 

[Steve V]

Let me say that this mess started after I installed the powerlogger(used from board) and then PLX(used also).

IGN 1 has PLX and alky power coming from it. There are 3 IGN 1 pins in fuse block. IGN 3 has scanmaster. Scanmaster and alky have been on the car for years.

This am I investigated to pins at the ecm for tension by removing and checking the fit of the spade on the pins. They are good. I also messed with the fuse block ,and ignition switch. If I remove the fuse that powers circuit 439 I can not install it fast enough before the engine dies. It does kill power to all items I see dropping out on powerlogger. Wiggling everthing under the block and near the switch while running causes nothing to happen.

i did move the PLX to ign 3 and scanmaster to ign 1.

Back to the grind....

I do have a replacement ignition switch. 1st I am going to power the circuit from the wiper circuit and see if it drops out. That should use a different leg of the ignition switch and go from there

 

[TurboBuRick]

Steve,

Does it seem to happen right about the time alky comes on?

For the hell of it, run a hot wire from the back of the alt into the car. Unplug the alky from the fuse panel and tie to the hot wire.

See if that makes any difference.

RL

 

[Steve V]

Steve,

Does it seem to happen right about the time alky comes on?

For the hell of it, run a hot wire from the back of the alt into the car. Unplug the alky from the fuse panel and tie to the hot wire.

See if that makes any difference.

RL

No, it will do it at idle or cruising. I doesn't act up on spool up or WOT it actually runs really good I have almost maxed out the extander chip with a mild tune/stock cam/cas v4/TE60@ 22-24psi.

 

[Steve V]

No progress today...

Spent all day today and 1/2 day Sunday messin with my junk. Boy do I have a large daig bill.

Here's a list of all that has been changed addressed....
Chip
ECM
Maf
Translator
Batt cables
Alternator
All grounds
Fuse links at starter.
Battery
Ignition Switch
I am stumped.

I need to swap the coil/module from my T. Then I will remove the powerlogger,then the PLX. If all that fails I will run a new wire to A6,if that fails a new orange wire from the battery. If that fails blow her up or part her out!!!

I am really hesitant to hack up the harness and run new circuits,I bought this car in 06 from Kirban(yes I over paid) and it was unmolested. I have basically gone through the motor/trans and other small items and a strip and repaint. Not liking that idea of cutting the harness at all.:frown:

 

[TurboBuRick]

I remember a friends car with a powerlogger that had a internal short and caused some problems. You may have a similar issue.

Keep us posted......

 

[Steve V]

No sh*t...I will remove it next. I won't get to mess with it until the weekend "IF" the wife doesn't have our baby by then

My powerlogger is from the very first run when they came out.