Anybody doing a true budget 4.8 or 5.3 Turbo G-body conversion?

Has anybody done a LS with the turbo underneath.... with hot side piping and downpipe routing such a pain..... I was wondering if putting it underneath the bottom of the car somewhere would be possible , then you would just need to find room for one pipe to find it's way to the intercooler. Spoolup might be a little slower..... but you could wrap the exhaust.... might have to use a stand alone oiling setup for the turbo and a little frame mounted oil cooler and electric pump setup. This should clean up the engine bay some.

I should go to bed and quit daydreaming.....
 
Has anybody done a LS with the turbo underneath.... with hot side piping and downpipe routing such a pain..... I was wondering if putting it underneath the bottom of the car somewhere would be possible , then you would just need to find room for one pipe to find it's way to the intercooler. Spoolup might be a little slower..... but you could wrap the exhaust.... might have to use a stand alone oiling setup for the turbo and a little frame mounted oil cooler and electric pump setup. This should clean up the engine bay some.

I should go to bed and quit daydreaming.....

There is room under and behind the engine, but you are limited as far as turbo frame size (space) and wheel sizes (spoolup). Every rear mount car I see either is laggy or is running a pretty little turbo. With as much room as a Gbody has in the engine bay, I can't imagine wanting to rear mount one. It might look a little messier, but I think the performance would outweigh the look by far.

I did get my driver's side manifold and tubing tack welded together to check for clearance. There is JUST enough room for the pipe (and a little air) for the pipe to snake down past the steering (at full lock to the right), so now I am going to finish the driver's side welds and weld the vband flange on this weekend. The passenger's side will be a breeze compared to the driver's side.
 
What is your ground clearance with that pan Brad?

I measured the pan and mine hangs down 1.75" lower than the bottom of the stock cross member
location (mine is cut out and tubular now). I will say there is no way the truck pan will clear the stock member without a large notch on the top/back part of the member.

Oh and as far as the "turned up" pass I made where it ran 6.60, it was only 12 psi. I was reviewing my log files this week and the highest KPA reading on any of my passes on the car was 185 kpa. So with that said I can safely say there's alot left in it. I have a new Bradco conv in the car now that I got from a friend to try and see. It does spool about 1 sec slower so its safe to say its def tighter than the old one. I will be testing tonight and tomorrow. Will post up the new #'s.
 
well the new converter helped alot. I'm seeing 5.24% slippage now instead of over 24%. I picked up 6 mph and reduced 800 rpm.

It was spinning due to 139 degree track temps but was able to muster a 10.41@128.4 mph (1.58 60'). I still need a gear change as I was on the rev limiter again at 950-1000ft. I have had a 1.42 60ft with better track conditions so i'm thinking low 10's and 130mph with a gear change are likely in the future.
 
I measured the pan and mine hangs down 1.75" lower than the bottom of the stock cross member
location (mine is cut out and tubular now). I will say there is no way the truck pan will clear the stock member without a large notch on the top/back part of the member.

Oh and as far as the "turned up" pass I made where it ran 6.60, it was only 12 psi. I was reviewing my log files this week and the highest KPA reading on any of my passes on the car was 185 kpa. So with that said I can safely say there's alot left in it. I have a new Bradco conv in the car now that I got from a friend to try and see. It does spool about 1 sec slower so its safe to say its def tighter than the old one. I will be testing tonight and tomorrow. Will post up the new #'s.

The truck pan will clear the stock member using 1" setback mounts and adapter plates. Easily. The only thing that comes close is the very front of the pan, the rear sump is fine.

Congrats on your new times!
 
The truck pan will clear the stock member using 1" setback mounts and adapter plates. Easily. The only thing that comes close is the very front of the pan, the rear sump is fine.

Congrats on your new times!

that is true, moving the engine back will fix the issue. That might make getting to those upper trans bolts fun too.
 
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