Another killer craigslist find!!!

Not sure of the paint but that is my deciding factor in price in most cases these days.
You buy a car that NEEDS paint nd you want it done right most of these cars are worth way less.
 
i agree that its probably not worth what he's asking from my pocketbook but its HIS car. And tens can be done with a stock bottom end.I have done it consistly. I went 10.6 in a all stock bottom end with a .30 over bore.
 
i agree that its probably not worth what he's asking from my pocketbook but its HIS car. And tens can be done with a stock bottom end.I have done it consistly. I went 10.6 in a all stock bottom end with a .30 over bore.

an "all" stock bottom end would not include upgraded pistons which
will most likely be the first thing to go.

with that being said, there is no reason you can't run mid 10s with an original shorblock that is in sound condition and tuned PROPERLY.
 
i agree that its probably not worth what he's asking from my pocketbook but its HIS car. And tens can be done with a stock bottom end.I have done it consistly. I went 10.6 in a all stock bottom end with a .30 over bore.
True, but few wan't to purchase a ticking time bomb knowing they are gonna have to dump another $3-5k when it lets go.
 
an "all" stock bottom end would not include upgraded pistons which
will most likely be the first thing to go.

with that being said, there is no reason you can't run mid 10s with an original shorblock that is in sound condition and tuned PROPERLY.

It was with dealer ordered .30 buick pistons! I talked with the guy who ordered them. I didn't know it at the time and only until a rebuild with a girdle did I find out. would never do it again.
 
hardtop, no rust in the northeast, nice mods, extra parts, 74k miles on it,
@ 12k OBO sounds decent to me....

also gotta take into consideration what:
TE63-1, Cotton's front mount, 60# injectors, Gen2 Translator, 3.5" LS1 MAF, buickgn.com cold air kit, AC 9" converter, 8 month old Dynotech Hi-Pro transmission, moser axles with long studs, eaton posi, 3" dual exhuast, Stainless THDP, Car has 15x3.5/15x8 Weld Draglites with radial fronts and MT ET streets in the rear, newer walbro 340 in-tank pump hotwired, Scanmaster, ATR rear swaybar, and more.

all costs to buy.
that's alot of cash to buy all those parts!!
 
The reason I ask is I just paid 8700 for a clean stock 87 GN 84k miles I thought I did good lol Apparently not lol

There’s a big difference between an $8500 car that runs; and one that doesn’t. There’s also a big difference between an 84,000 mile car that has lots of broken do-dads and one that is still nice.

It’s hard to tell how well the AC works on an $8500 84,000 mile car that has the engine on a stand in the corner; or in pieces on the floor. You may not think it’s paying a premium for a running car; but I think we all expect a discount for buying a car that you can’t test much of anything.

It doesn’t sound like you got a bad deal.
 
Wow you guys really think its only worth 7500? wow im shocked:eek:
Im a newbie so bear with me. Can someone go into some detail?
No one said anything about what its worth. They just reinforced that the sellers price is not really a "killer" deal. Like Brett said $7500 would be killer. $10k would be more realistic to ask.
 
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