Aluminum Drive-shaft

Originally posted by NJTurbo
I never quoted anybody $200.00:confused:

If you read the post above, this was a board member who thought....it would be around $200.00. I spent a good 1 hour on the phone and got a education in driveshaft's. They claim this piece 3.5 will handle up to 1000HP. Weight is about 10lbs:cool:
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Damn! 10lbs!

What is the weight of a stock shaft?

FYI, I will add that to my weights page:
http://www.sftbc.com/jsta6/weight/weight.htm
 
Originally posted by NJTurbo
Cool page some good tips in there, I am shocked that ass tar mat is worth 10lbs:eek:
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I never weighed it, but I felt it, and I would believe it. That thing is HEAVY.

So someone chime in with the weight of a stock DS! Also, what is the weight of a carbon fiber one?
 
According to Conley's write up in Kirabn's book the aluminum shaft saves you 8lbs-10lbs. Elsewhere in the same write up it explains that rotating mass weight savings is 8 times as effective as static. So that is like removing 64lbs from the car. When you think of it that way it doesnt sound like to bad of a deal to me.
 
Well heck yeah, 64lbs sounds great.

But rotating mass savings for 8 times effective then static from where? driveshaft vs. crank pulley vs brake drum vs ?

What I mean is, where is the savings found to be the greatest? And where does it not really matter?

I was reading about the Porsche GT3, and there was all kinds of places where they used titanium to save weight; valve keepers, etc. Really interesting.

Not to bust balls, just curious as to what is a good place to save rotating weight, and what places does it not matter.

Am I making sense?:D
 
I think we are getting a little to technical for this area:eek:

IMO anywhere were you can save weight including rotating weight is a plus. That is a big reason why Jason made his pulleys. Looks, Overall weight reduction, rotating weight reduction.

What I mean is, where is the savings found to be the greatest? And where does it not really matter
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I would have to think when Lawrence wrote it he was speaking overall weight savings through the drive-line. Where is it important, I guess it depends on the person:cool:
 
Just to clarify things a little. When I said the driveshaft was around $200, that was for the driveshaft only. Obviously to get the yoke and U joints that adds to the cost. I found these guys while browsing ebay and thought it was a good opportunity to help my fellow Buick family members. I don't get to the computer much anymore while I wait for my new company to see the need for me to have a laptop. This is why I pm'd a couple of members who were looking for aluminum driveshafts. I hope all who are interested can get in on this. The savings is still over $100. I'm sure everybody who gets one can find a home somewhere in there car to put that money. Good luck!
Marty
 
NJ, I've never run an alum ds...You say 1000hp capable. What about transbrake launches? Will aluminum hold up as well or better perhaps than steel?
 
Originally posted by STP
NJ, I've never run an alum ds...You say 1000hp capable. What about transbrake launches? Will aluminum hold up as well or better perhaps than steel?
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Sorry Scott I would not recommend trans brake launches:(

We do not recommend that you use a 6061-T6 aluminum shaft in race cars with clutches or trans brakes
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What would he recommend for a car with a trans brake?

My car doesn't have one, but it might some day...
 
Originally posted by mgmshar
What would he recommend for a car with a trans brake?

My car doesn't have one, but it might some day...
Click to expand...

If the car lives at the track and heavy abuse is present, IMO I would run steel or carbon fiber. Carbon fiber is $750.00:eek:
 
Originally posted by NJTurbo
If the car lives at the track and heavy abuse is present, IMO I would run steel or carbon fiber. Carbon fiber is $750.00:eek:
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Go ahead and put that aluminum driveshaft in your car and put a set of slicks on it......see how long that lasts!
 
Originally posted by EightSecV6
Go ahead and put that aluminum driveshaft in your car and put a set of slicks on it......see how long that lasts!
Click to expand...

This is not for the Stage Car big Daddy:eek: :p
 
OK, so how would this piece compare (as far as strength) to the stock steel driveshaft? The main reason I was buying this was because I was under the impression that it was built to be stronger (thicker wall, etc.) than the stock piece. And a bit lighter as well.

Does anybody know the O.D. size and wall thickness of the stock drive shaft? How about this aluminum one?

Thanks,
 
Most people switch to a Aluminum drive shaft for weight reduction and rotating weight reduction. Steel is stronger than aluminum. However most cars will are not track queens and are not running full slicks and launching at 10-15PSI....:cool:
 
Well, steel is stronger than aluminum, if they are the same size. But I'm guessing that the aluminum driveshaft has a thicker wall than the steel. So, maybe not.

If I knew the actual dimensions of the shafts (outside diamter and wall thickness), I can calculate the relative strength of one versus the other.

Anyone?
 
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