Alignment Specs?

[~JM~]

Performed a search on various forms of Front Alignment Specs. Unfortunately many dead links & error messages. Did find the following.

Ridetech
Camber: -.5 to -1.5 [within .3 from side to side]
Caster: 4 to 7 deg. Positive
Toe: 1/16” to 1/8” Toe in

TB Board
The alignment specs you want for a street driven car that's not autocrossed or road raced:

Camber: -0.5 to -1 degree
Caster: as much as you can get
Toe: 1/16" toe in

If you're racing it in parking lots:

Camber: All of it, negative
Caster: install longer UCA mount bolts in the rearward location and get as much as possible, aiming for at least 4 degrees positive, but I'm running six and it's still not enough.
Toe: 0 if running rubber bushings, 1/16" toe out if running poly or delrin.

These are NOT what will be in the computer of a standard alignment rack. But this is what you want.

Anyone have any further information they could add or clarify?

Thanks.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Performed a search on various forms of Front Alignment Specs. Unfortunately many dead links & error messages. Did find the following.

Ridetech
Camber: -.5 to -1.5 [within .3 from side to side]
Caster: 4 to 7 deg. Positive
Toe: 1/16” to 1/8” Toe in

TB Board
The alignment specs you want for a street driven car that's not autocrossed or road raced:

Camber: -0.5 to -1 degree
Caster: as much as you can get
Toe: 1/16" toe in

If you're racing it in parking lots:

Camber: All of it, negative
Caster: install longer UCA mount bolts in the rearward location and get as much as possible, aiming for at least 4 degrees positive, but I'm running six and it's still not enough.
Toe: 0 if running rubber bushings, 1/16" toe out if running poly or delrin.

These are NOT what will be in the computer of a standard alignment rack. But this is what you want.

Anyone have any further information they could add or clarify?

Thanks.

What more do you want? The Ridetech numbers jive with mine. There's not a whole lot to add. Each frame is a tad different due to GM's fantastic (not) quality, so getting the exact numbers isn't always possible. But the guidance is sound. What you actually end up with is going to depend on your car and what the tech sees when they get it on the rack.

 

[~JM~]

Seeking reinforcement that the information I located is the most accurate. Try to make sure that work is performed correctly the first time as much as possible.

Thanks.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Seeking reinforcement that the information I located is the most accurate. Try to make sure that work is performed correctly the first time as much as possible.

Thanks.

If you meet the lower ends of the thresholds above, you're going to be gold.

Alignment on these things is never exact. You go with the guidelines, and get it as good as the tech can get it.

If you can find your local SCCA, bug them and find out where their fast guys get their alignments, and go there.