This debate will go on for a long time, and I guess it is good to stir up the old grey matter...
If I step back and look at the idea, I ask myself the question...Why are sticks used?
To reduce weight. To reduce parasitic HP loss. In auto-cross and rally driving usually to manipulate the gear ratios so the engine's rpm will sit in the "power-band" when coming out of a corner, and for assistance in braking going into a corner.
I can understand trying to shave some weight off, but the difference isn't really that much when you add up all the parts needed to make a stick work. (Mechanical linkages or hydraulic master and slave cylinders, pedal, flywheel, clutch, disk, fork, throwout bearing, etc.)
Parasitic loss... I feel unless you are running an all out race car, the HP loss is negligible.
Making sure that the engine is operating in it's powerband... 350 FT/LB's of torque at 2000 rpm. Yah, I better drop another gear
to get that baby to pull harder through the corner
When I had my twin cam 8500 rpm red-line race motor, with a 4.36 diff in the "Toy", the 5 spd was needed. Nothing felt better than dropping a gear or two to put that motor into the "Sweet zone" and let her rip. When I used to rally drive, I would love to toe/heel downshift as I was entered a corner and smoothly pull through, coming out of the apex right in the power band. With some manipulation of the "E" brake, it was easy to gently kick out the rear end car and bring on the power to drift through the corners.
This application works well when the motor in hand doesn't make a lot of low end torque, and has a wide rpm range.
The Turbo Buick motor is like a DC motor, it likes load. It is also like a light switch. On or Off, and it doesn't rev very high.
One of the things that scared me a lot
when I ran a stick, was how easy it was to get the car squirrelly in a corner when shifting and not even be pushing it. Most of you know how easy it is to break the tires loose going in a straight line, now do the same in a corner. Add to that shocking the drive train with some gear changes
Those of you that are thinking that BOV's and power-shifting
will be part of the solution, take a step back and consider how much traction you will have if you are power-shifting in a corner at WOT... Think about it. All the power in the world is useless if you can't put it to the pavement
The line between drag racing and street driving is getting blurred here, and too many variables are being added to the mix. Other cars, engines, turbos, etc. We are talking about the basically stock Turbo Buick motor found in most TR/GN engine bays, not a Stage motor, 4 cyl race motor, SBC, or a high $$$ experimental redesign. Let's stick with what we have.
One of the reasons that I went with the Buick swap, was because it had a flat torque curve and built it down low in the rpm range. I grew tired of having to make a lot of noise and drawing attention to the car with the high revs when I wanted to play. With the N/A motor, it started at 1500 rpm and just pulled. 4400 rpm was all that was needed to get the job done.
Step up to the Turbo SFI setup and
If your motor is slow to spool using any of the smaller streetable turbos, you need to do some tuning and have a good look at your chip. If it isn't quick enough, try some of the "recipe' mods. If you really feel that the auto tranny doesn't shift well enough for your liking, put in a manual valve body and a aftermarket shifter and shift away. You will save yourself a lot of grief and $$$ in the long run. If you just want to be different and like challenges (I can relate
) go for it, and report back to us all the details of your journey.
Just my ramblings.
Paul