4" intake pipe and a turbo question

Fast231

Turbo Luvr
Joined
May 24, 2001
Hi All, I'm shopping for a new Turbo for the TTA..I currently have a intake pipe from a GN and the fittment is crap. I'm leaning towards a turbo with a 4" intake...and need to address the intake pipe..should i use a rubber type hose aka pete tomka style or should i buy some 4" tubing and weld one up?

The turbo I'm leaning towards is a Turbonetics T series BB with a 66mm hot side wheel and a 68mm cold side wheel..I assume this is about the same as the TE45A that i had on my GN and with the BB option i should be able to get away with a 3200 stall..The turbo is 4" in and 2 1/2 out....Thoughts?

Thanks!
 
buy a Precision billet turbo ! Putting stock longblocks in the 10's since they came out!
 
I used a transition hose on my cpt61 so I could use my 3" pipe that I had on a TE44.

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I wouldn't advise using 3" piping on a 4" inlet turbo. It works, but isn't pretty. I made a 4" intake pipe and am using a Turbonetics 66 BB. I'll take some pictures and post them.
 
GBodyparts has some of our 4 inch inlet tubes in stock. I dont see why they wouldnt work on the TTA provided they clear the intercooler pipe.
 
Here's a shot of a 4 inch pipe :D

Dont ask who made it :redface:
 

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That is one of Bob Sims (Action Fabrication) 4" inlet pipes. I still have a aluminum one one my car. I could have one made if interested.

Steve Kaminski
 

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I'm going to tell you TTA guys how to save some real money. This is the 4" intake pipe that works like a champ, and all you need is a screwdriver and requires NO cutting or skills at all.

Here are the Summit racing part numbers

SPE-9749 4" 45* elbow Quantity 3 Price 16.95ea
SPE-9771 4" Coupler Quantity 2 Price 11.95ea

You will need your correct adapter for your mass air too.

I mounted my alternator down low with the champion racing bracket, but this pipe cleared everything. As you can see, I culled a lot of the things that didn't make the car faster, or made it harder to work on.

will074.jpg
 
Hi All, I'm shopping for a new Turbo for the TTA..I currently have a intake pipe from a GN and the fittment is crap. I'm leaning towards a turbo with a 4" intake...and need to address the intake pipe..should i use a rubber type hose aka pete tomka style or should i buy some 4" tubing and weld one up?

The turbo I'm leaning towards is a Turbonetics T series BB with a 66mm hot side wheel and a 68mm cold side wheel..I assume this is about the same as the TE45A that i had on my GN and with the BB option i should be able to get away with a 3200 stall..The turbo is 4" in and 2 1/2 out....Thoughts?

Thanks!


Hi James,

A 4" intake is a great idea but, a 4" intake means a 4" through out the system.
 
Hi All, I'm shopping for a new Turbo for the TTA..I currently have a intake pipe from a GN and the fittment is crap. I'm leaning towards a turbo with a 4" intake...and need to address the intake pipe..should i use a rubber type hose aka pete tomka style or should i buy some 4" tubing and weld one up?

The turbo I'm leaning towards is a Turbonetics T series BB with a 66mm hot side wheel and a 68mm cold side wheel..I assume this is about the same as the TE45A that i had on my GN and with the BB option i should be able to get away with a 3200 stall..The turbo is 4" in and 2 1/2 out....Thoughts?

Thanks!


Hi James,

A 4" intake is a great idea but, a 4" intake means a 4" through out the system. What comes in must go out. Simply put, everything needs to be 4". Your headers and cross over can deal with it but the rest of the system will just be a bottle neck. One change effects everything.
 
No.. if that where the case, turbo's would have a 4 inch outlet with a 4 inch inlet :p
 
I'm going to tell you TTA guys how to save some real money. This is the 4" intake pipe that works like a champ, and all you need is a screwdriver and requires NO cutting or skills at all.

Here are the Summit racing part numbers

SPE-9749 4" 45* elbow Quantity 3 Price 16.95ea
SPE-9771 4" Coupler Quantity 2 Price 11.95ea

You will need your correct adapter for your mass air too.

I mounted my alternator down low with the champion racing bracket, but this pipe cleared everything. As you can see, I culled a lot of the things that didn't make the car faster, or made it harder to work on.

will074.jpg


Nice work!

Over this last weekend I re-routed my upper radiator hose almost identacle to the way you have. I had a "pinch" position between my MAF pipe and my 17 row SLIC. After looking at both - makes me wonder why PAS/Pontiac didn't choose the same routing - much cleaner.


P1000778.jpg
 
I don't think 89ICBM understands the principle behind the compressor housing. Also the bigger the inlet is the more air you can get into the compressor to compress. The inlet is like a velocity stack.

Steve K.
 
I didn't need to use one on the 4" pipe I made. if you have a curved section leaving the inlet it will clear, but if the pipe is straight coming out of the turbo it won't clear.
 
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