231 Carbed V6

wordy1

Member
Joined
May 19, 2006
I am picking up a 1983 Cutlass with the 231 in it. What can I do to improve the performance?
 
That all depends how much money you want to put into it.
My first rebuild I had an RV cam put in and it didn't really make much difference.
This time I rebuilt a 4.1 and punched it 30, performer cam, performer intake, headers, 650cfm carb and 2.5 inch exhaust.
Once I get the transmission straightened out I will know for sure how much good I have done.
I have a stock 4bbl intake and the stock elec. quadrajet if you want them. I don't have any need for them anymore.
The intake needs to be planed though. It was $70 bucks at my mechine shop so you might want to check to see what it cost at yours.
 
Well considering that this car will be a daily driver I don't want to spend too much and I don't want to give up fuel economy at the cost of performance. Headers and exhaust look to be the obvious add-ons, and I don't think a 4.1 intake and carb will hurt. Do they sell headers for the 3.8? I might be interested in the intake and carb. I will see how much it costs to have it planed.
 
I have a nice clean 4bbl intake for $50+ship if you want it.
 
Thanks guys, I haven't even gotten the car yet, and I'm already getting parts. You guys are awesome. Okay, so with the intake, carb, headers, and exhaust, what kind of horsepower gains can I expect? Will the 4.1 intake hurt the fuel economy?
 
It won't help fuel economy. I find with a 4bbl I have a hard time keeping my foot out of it.
As far as hp gains, I don't know. There are far greater on these pages then I at calculating that. I wouldn't look for superfantastic out of it. I would reserve that honor for the GN & GNX but there should be some moderate gains.
 
Just want to make sure its worth the effort :). I drive 20,000 a year, and will be putting that on this car easy..
 
dont put a performance exhaust on it. if youre going to do headers, fine, but leave the stock diameter stock, and keep your cat too. the headers will relieve all the flow restriction you need. anything after that, if you open up a N/A 3.8's exhaust anymore, youll lose all your starting line torque. trust me, i already did it. You can do cold air intake, headers, lightening mods, suspension mods, and heat management mods, that will make a N/A 3.8 g body drive and respond like a dream.
 
I got a N/A Chevy 229 V6, headers with 1 3/4" true duals has worked wonders. Any more than that diameter wise and the performance would be worse. Can I assume the same with the Buick 231?
 
Unless you have head and cam work the stock exhaust will actually help. Headers are good no matter what but leave the exhaust alone. I had a stock 231 with dual 2" pipes and it was a dog down low. Once I put the crossover and single back on it woke it up a bunch. Now once the cam and ported heads went on the duals did help a little. For a daily driver go with the 4bbl intake and carb, headers and make sure the rest of the engine is sound and it should be a great driver. If you are interested, check in the for sale section. I also have a carb and intake from a 4.1L for sale cheap.
 
Turbo6Chick said:
dont put a performance exhaust on it. if youre going to do headers, fine, but leave the stock diameter stock....

This is partially true. The few companies that do sell headers don't tell you that one would have to do the entire exhaust from front to back if you want headers on a G-body car with a 3.8. Stock diameter for the exhaust is 2".

The work alone I would imagine is expensive not including parts. (I did my own work and I can tell you this is intensive). A drivers side mod has to be done on the crossmember to allow for duel exhaust.

I used the Pacesetter set that acole86 posted. They're very good but if you intend to use the CCC system then the right side header has to be fitted with an O2 bung. I I'm willing to sell my Pacesetters with the mod already done for $60.00 not including shipping if you're interested.

But bottom line headers with duel exhaust could run you up to $300.00. Any good quality muffler shop can do this. I recommend this upgrade it's good for about 30 HP. With a 4.1 intake and carb it gives another 25 HP. Your economy should not drop. :biggrin:
 
I am emissions legal here and the exhaust needs work on the car, Will removing the cat have any benefits? What if I just leave the car alone? Are the intake and carb going to improve performance that much? I am mainly concerned about overall drivability and fuel economy. A little extra power would just be a bonus...
 
wordy1 said:
....I am emissions legal here and the exhaust needs work on the car, Will removing the cat have any benefits?
Not in an emissions state it won't. :confused:
wordy1 said:
What if I just leave the car alone?
Your choice. :cool:
wordy1 said:
....Are the intake and carb going to improve performance that much?
If I had to do it all again from scratch it would'nt be my first choice. :cool:

wordy1 said:
.... I am mainly concerned about overall drivability and fuel economy....
Then leave it alone. :biggrin:
wordy1 said:
.... A little extra power would just be a bonus...
To make that 3.8 rock you would have to remove it from your car and put it in a dune buggy. However, if you want to keep the car and really rock I'd suggest get rid of the 3.8 and get a 455.

You see in order to get the stock N/A to power up, you would have to spend good money. It was'nt made to go fast it was made to save gas. The G-body cars were slugs if it came with the V-6. (Not including the turbo V-6's of course).

The slighly peppier N/A's came with the 4.1. It was'nt the bore size that made it peppier, it was a combination of the bore, carb, intake and higher rear gears. (That is why if I had to do it again I would start with the rear gears).

So I'd suggest you should think about it. Remember, you could always leave it alone. :D
 
Freddie's Buick said:
So I'd suggest you should think about it. Remember, you could always leave it alone. :D

Well thats why you guys are here :). to steer me right. I will start with a tune up a carb rebuild, and the basics a compression test etc/.

BTW< will all the tricks I used on my Chevy 229 V6 work on this motor, not the exact parts of course, but the general formula. Its got a mild cam, one cam higher than stock, an edelbrock intake, holley 390 4-barrel, shorty headers from a 1992 Camaro, and 1 1/2" true duals. I had the heads sent out, but thats it, it is a real runner and will stay with a stock V8 car. And its only got a 2.73 rear. I decided to keep it for milage and am waiting to find a decnet Th-2004r for it to swap in some higher gears.

It runs identical to a stock 305 in my opinion. Never had it dynoed, but the torque comes in quick and ites fairly peppy, I'd guess 220 hp.. The gas milage suffered a bit and went from 25 mpg to about 22... Thats the last thing I would want to do here.
 
Sorry for the slow response, out of town. Anyway, the intake is flat just really dirty. It doesn't appear to have any fatal flaws either. Should work well. The carb would need a rebuild but it isn't anything that is too difficult to do.
 
Freddie, you are partial correct. The 3.8 was made for gas mileage, but with enough work and greenbacks you can make it rock without a turbo.
I have my transmission close, very close and as it is right now since I don't have posi it will light up the rear tire very easily. On the highway just cruising you punch it and it will set you back and get to 80 in one he!! of a hurry.
All said and done with all the parts and all the machine work I have about $2500 in the engine and exhaust. Why did I spend that on a V6? Because everybody builds SBC's. I like to be different.
Before all the work, the stock 3.8 couldn't power break and spin the back tire even on wet pavement.
You can get power out of them, it is just going to take some dough to do it.
If you are looking for a daily driver, I would just leave it alone and tune it up. By the way, don't look for impressive fuel mileage anyway. Even the 3.8 never got that great of mileage. I think the best I ever got stock was 20mpg.
 
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