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I'm running the 218/218 and it seems well suited for my 4.1. Running a lot more turbo than you, but the torque is massive and pulls very hard on top. Has a nice little rumble too, but still very streetable.

Yea, saw some pics of it after taking a couple missle hits and it was kinda bone chilling seeing a hole in the side that would have been real close to "Fox" berthing. Seeing any ship sink now gives me pause...guess that is what happens when you live on a ship that long.

Boy what memories...was on Richmond K Turner CG20 (Lehey class) from 89-93. It was a top heavy SOB!

If the raised BLM's are caused by a exhaust leak then the ECM will be adding fuel making it richer and thus giving it the raw unburnt fuel needed to burn the extra O2 being drawn into the header...causing a vicious cycle of higher exhaust temps. Sometimes the header cracks will not be heard, at...

Could be a crack or leak in the header pulling in air and then burning it in the header with unburnt gas causing the temps to ramp up. What are the idle BLM's?

I used the 1 ton and it was way too short. I made mine work by drilling a hole in the end of the boom and bolting on a extension piece of boxed steel...worked by not the safest way to do it. Save yourself the headache and get the longest boom you can.

Not 3/4 inch drive stuff, 3/8 drive ratchet. The spark plug socket is a 3/8 drive socket, but had a 3/4 head molded on it that a 3/8 drive 3/4 inch socket fits on.

You mentioned earlier that you are running a PL (power logger) correct? Let me just throw this out, back in the "old" days of Direct Scan it was not uncommon to have a code 42 when the ribbon cable from the ECM edge connector and the laptop would encounter RFI. It would break up and run like...

Hey Eric, does the fuel pressure flutter when it starts to break up?

Where did you connect the main ground from the battery? Grounds may be tight, but did you strip the paint from the block where they are connected? Easy to forget when putting a new engine together.

I use a spark plug socket that has a 3/4 head molded into it at the end. Put the socket on the plug and then use a regular ratchet with a regular 3/4 socket on it and use that to drive the spark plug socket. Gives me just the right amount of distance to not have to use the swivel. But the swivel...

Still not getting any codes?

Once it's running right drive it like you stole it! If built right it's built right, and if it's built wrong it's built wrong....being easy on it for "x" miles wont fix any problems and the rings need seating right away.

Try to swap the chip. Fast flashing indicates a chip\ECM error. Check for bad connections.

I'm using the 1000's with no problems yet, put on dry. I think the 1026's are used with AL heads, the fire ring is not stainless as on the 1000's. I used the 1200's for the intake with a seperate valley pan. The 1200's are thick so they can handle some "slop". Only have about 600 miles on the...

If it's around 10-15 pounds and then it cleares up with higher boost it's compressor surge. Can be caused by a mulitude of things, search "compressor surge" and read away!

409 stainless...low grade stuff.

Allot of little things are different. Cam is same, valetrain is same but new pushrods may be needed as to different deck heights of the blocks, will need to tap timing cover for 14 bolt oil pan, 14 bolt oil pan needed, need the stage head studs which are a bit shorter than the 109's, obviously...

Well, I would think most people running their cars faster than stock attempt to get the most power out of their cars before they knock. Kind of need to find out where that limit is and everyone's is different. If you have found a magic way to find that limit without ever getting the engine to...

Tune to put whatever turbo you have into it's "sweet spot" and then up the timing until it knocks. Don't sacrifice boost for timing, put also don't push the turbo out of it's efficiency range just for the sake of running more boost and less timing.