4.1 question

[NOKA72]

Hey guys..just double checking....everything from my 87 motor will swap over to the 84 4.1 eng..including cam/valvetrain/pushrods/etc.....any links to this swap.OH AND MOST IMPORTANT 8445 HEADS WILL WORK YES OR NO.thnx vinny

 

[NM Tom]

Hey guys..just double checking....everything from my 87 motor will swap over to the 84 4.1 eng..including cam/valvetrain/pushrods/etc.....any links to this swap..thnx vinny

Allot of little things are different. Cam is same, valetrain is same but new pushrods may be needed as to different deck heights of the blocks, will need to tap timing cover for 14 bolt oil pan, 14 bolt oil pan needed, need the stage head studs which are a bit shorter than the 109's, obviously pistons\rings. The heads are the same.

 

[Nasty Wendy]

TurboBuicks.com - Build a Budget 4.1 Motor!

 

[forzfed]

You could have some issues using the Felpro1000 head gaskets. Lot's are recommending the 1026. I kept losing coolant with the 1000. I would also put some sealant around the coolant passages on the intake gasket because of the different deck height.

 

[NM Tom]

You could have some issues using the Felpro1000 head gaskets. Lot's are recommending the 1026. I kept losing coolant with the 1000. I would also put some sealant around the coolant passages on the intake gasket because of the different deck height.

I'm using the 1000's with no problems yet, put on dry. I think the 1026's are used with AL heads, the fire ring is not stainless as on the 1000's. I used the 1200's for the intake with a seperate valley pan. The 1200's are thick so they can handle some "slop". Only have about 600 miles on the motor, but all is well.

 

[turbofabricator]

If using an austemper hydraulic roller cam (which you SHOULD) you will need to install an oil transfere line at the back of the block between the oil gallery plugs to get oil to the drivers side lifters. The hyd. roller cams do NOT have the oil transfere groove machined into them. The other options are to machine a groove under the front cam bearing, or machine the transfere groove into the front cam journal, like the factory did. The transfere tube is MUCH easier, though. Same if you use the stock cam, too. If the cam you are using does NOT have a 360* groove in the front cam journal, you will need to perform the above mod.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

If using an austemper hydraulic roller cam (which you SHOULD) you will need to install an oil transfere line at the back of the block between the oil gallery plugs to get oil to the drivers side lifters. The hyd. roller cams do NOT have the oil transfere groove machined into them. The other options are to machine a groove under the front cam bearing, or machine the transfere groove into the front cam journal, like the factory did. The transfere tube is MUCH easier, though. Same if you use the stock cam, too. If the cam you are using does NOT have a 360* groove in the front cam journal, you will need to perform the above mod.

what about those front cam bearings that have the groove in them?

acceptible alternative?

A.j.

 

[LOT]

Imo

what about those front cam bearings that have the groove in them?

acceptible alternative?

A.j.

Assuming engine is out of car and empty --using a small die grinder--cut a groove in the block --don't have to be machined--don't have to be pretty--does have to carry a small amount of oil to drivers side lifters. Lot easier than doing the transer tube and another place for a leak. If engine is already assembled--do the tube being careful to keep it out of the way of flexplate bolts.

 

[LOT]

1000

I'm using the 1000's with no problems yet, put on dry. I think the 1026's are used with AL heads, the fire ring is not stainless as on the 1000's. I used the 1200's for the intake with a seperate valley pan. The 1200's are thick so they can handle some "slop". Only have about 600 miles on the motor, but all is well.

If the 1000 sit on block with out hanging over into bore--it will work fine!!!!!

Some times they, will sometimes not--champfer @ top of bore could be excessive.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

Assuming engine is out of car and empty --using a small die grinder--cut a groove in the block --don't have to be machined--don't have to be pretty--does have to carry a small amount of oil to drivers side lifters. Lot easier than doing the transer tube and another place for a leak. If engine is already assembled--do the tube being careful to keep it out of the way of flexplate bolts.

Im sorry... just getting my facts right.

so if you can switch the cam bearing, then its ok. use a grooved bearing.

if not your suggesting to grind in a groove behind where the cam bearing sits?



A.j.

 

[turbofabricator]

Yes, the grooved O.D. front bearing should work.

 

[LOT]

again

Im sorry... just getting my facts right.

so if you can switch the cam bearing, then its ok. use a grooved bearing.

if not your suggesting to grind in a groove behind where the cam bearing sits?



A.j.

If block is empty---cut a groove in block--or use the grooved bearing ( have never use a grooved bearing myself but see no reason it won't work assuming groove is of sufficent size).

 

[turbofabricator]

If block is empty---cut a groove in block--or use the grooved bearing ( have never use a grooved bearing myself but see no reason it won't work assuming groove is of sufficent size).

Agree. If you don't have a die grinder and cut-off wheel, use the transfere tube in the back. I have not used the grooved bearing, either. It "should" work fine, though. If you do grind a groove in the block, I would suggest grinding it on the upper surface, so as to keep more material on the loaded side of the bearing. Just a thought.