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You may want to try removing the belt again to see if you can move the crank pulley back & forth by hand. could be something going on with the keyway, crank pulley bolts, or that funky cover over the crank pulley,

I bought the 14 bolt ARP stud kit for my GN1s & tried my M&As with these studs & they seemed to be the same length as needed for the M&As.

I don't think so. If it was back pressure it would become worse as RPM was increased.

Sounds like it is firing back into the intake. I'd check the plug wires for proper routing, then if no luck there pull the valve covers & look for valvtrain issues like a broken spring or improper valve lash.

When you are down there, check the starter to see if the gear is returning after a start. My return arm broke & at low RPM it sounded like detonation but was just the gear hitting the flywheel.

You should run the wider #1 bearing in all the saddles. This is probably what T.A. has sent you.

Don't want to step on any toes here, but I have torqued a girdle onto a regular 109 block, & seen the block distort as it is tightened between the block & the girdle. I should mention that at the time I had a standard bore 109 block, & a standard bore SGI block & was asking the same thing...

I measured two stage-2, 153 blocks & a 109 block & they seem to be the same width. 9 3/8" & this is with a tape measure, but they seem to be the same @ the pads. HTH James

Does anybody know how direct scan reads or calculates boost? Every time my buddy takes reading on the street, it all looks good running up to 18 lbs of boost with a Red's 93 chip. @ the track with the boost turned up to 22 lbs with Reds 106 chip & C-16 the boost readings break up. Car also...

Mac. My coil pack is mounted on the firewall so I run #2 & #4 plug wires under the intake & they come out between #2 & #4 intake runner , not under the coolant bridge.

I do the same as Big 88. #2 & #4 I run under the intake & around the front of the engine, & have not melted one yet.

Is there a posibility there should be Helicoils in the 1/2" holes. Just a thought.

Thanks for the replies guys. The first thing that I did was call the tech line,sat on hold for 20 minutes,and just thought that when someone finally got to me he would just read off the same cam card as I have & tell me those are the right springs. He did not know anything about the affects...

Intercooler , thanks for the info. I'm wondering if you run into valve float @ high boost due to what I had concidered low spring pressure with a roller cam. I just did not know if crane had taken into account they were selling these springs for a boosted motor. Hey Tim, I already know your...

I have purchased a roller cam kit from a T.R. owner in my area & on installation, my machinist informed me that @ the proper installed valve spring height, the springs are @ 100# seated pressure. As far as I know hyd. rollers should be @ 140. To shim these to the proper pressure I will be into...

Cool pistons Dave. You say that you are using a hydraulic roller cam? I didn't think that you could get offset hydraulic lifters for the stage 2 heads. What spring pressure are you using? Thanks. James

I used the BMS front hub that my motor came with. It had the interupter ring on it. If you are using a production front cover, you just have to loosen the crank sensor & move it back a bit so the hub does not hit it. It is also very light. James

Nope, but you are using those pistons in that motor. Right. James

You know you will be breaking the thread sealant that was put on the threads when the motor was assembled, & running the risk of having a slow coolant leak into your oil. Head studs are a different story because you don't break the seal. JMO James

Check all hoses & clamps between the turbo & throttle body.You may have one that blows open during higher boost & closes when boost drops. I have also had coil pacs that don't have the balls to fire under higher boost, (the type 2 wouldn't on my car). Check your ground wiring @ the back of the...