YOU pick MY turbo.

[Pittsburghkid]

Well you could go with the te60 for $600 and max it out. You could go with something else for around $1300 which will leave you room to grow. But IMO, and i wish i had to money to get it myself right now, you could jump on full throttle's special for the 6776 for $900 that way your right in the middle for price but you can run what your looking for with no problem and have plenty of room to grow with that turbo i.e. ported heads, bored block, bigger cam. You have all the bolts ons (except alky) to grow into the 10's should you want to without having to get a bigger turbo. This way without having to bump the boost over 20some pounds and blow a gasket without alky or running race gas when you take it to the track and still outrun anything you'll see on the street.

 

[JP112_89]

...

I always like the CPT 66 BB. Polished cover, big shaft and 1 year no questions asked warranty. The PTE 6057 BB looks like a winner too. I'd get a BB turbo if it's in your budget.

 

[bison]

Well you could go with the te60 for $600 and max it out. You could go with something else for around $1300 which will leave you room to grow. But IMO, and i wish i had to money to get it myself right now, you could jump on full throttle's special for the 6776 for $900 that way your right in the middle for price but you can run what your looking for with no problem and have plenty of room to grow with that turbo i.e. ported heads, bored block, bigger cam. You have all the bolts ons (except alky) to grow into the 10's should you want to without having to get a bigger turbo. This way without having to bump the boost over 20some pounds and blow a gasket without alky or running race gas when you take it to the track and still outrun anything you'll see on the street.

When you leave room to grow you run slow. Maxing out a TE60 would put you in the 10.70 range. The TE44 has been 10.80's on an unopened engine. You need to determine your goals then order the parts that will complement each other the most. In almost all instances you are better running smaller bolt ons harder than larger more expensive ones a little less hard. The only time id say this isnt true is with the fuel system. No point taking chances there. His goal is to have a solid 11.50 reliable car. My advise would be to go with a $600 journal turbo since they will easily move enough air to run very low 11's on a conservative tune and save the remaining $ for heads and suspension work. I wouldnt even switch cams for his application. With the TE 60 and heads the car will run 11.50@20psi with a good tune. Ball bearing turbos are a waste of $ on an application like this. Adding $1000 to the cost when you can get it done easily with the correct journal turbo. Even more true with a decent converter like the ATI he has. To be honest about outrunning anything on the street running under 20psi i dont see this as being realistic either. There are many cars out there that have 9 sec power and are regularly driven on the street.

 

[bison]

You dont have much going for you on that combo aside from the converter

I disagree. He has an xfi. This will give him a huge advantage with the adjustability and enable him to quickly dial in his combo. Hes looking for reliable solid 11.50.

 

[bison]

Would like to hear your opinions. TAX time is coming.:biggrin: And I need to select a turbo for my needs. First off, let me explain my purpose. I have an 87GN that I am going pro-touring with. I have a combination of handling but also want a mix with straight line performance. The car will be run with Nitto Drag Radials all of the time. I would like my car to be consistently around 11.5 or slightly quicker on these radials. I will only hit the track maybe once or twice a year, so I truly do not want to sacrifice too much spool for top end. I want something fun to drive on the street. Now, onto my combo. I know some of these variables will not matter, but I will provide as much info as I can. My car is as follows:

Stock rebuilt block with ARP Headstuds, Stock Cam, Stock Heads, Stock Ported Intake Manifold, Precision 70mm plenum & Accufab Throttle Body w/RJC Power Plate, Precision Front Mount, TA Performance Headers, RJC 3" Downpipe & Crossflow Exhaust, RJC Pulley Set, ATI 3200 N/L converter, FAST XFI, will be running E85.

Any other helpful info, let me know.

On a side note, could someone tell me what performance difference I would see between an S cover and an E cover?

Lastly, I will probably have a 70mm Turbonetics ball bearing turbo with GTQ .85 exhaust housing in my hands shortly but I think this is way too big for my setup.

The 70 turbo you are referring too is a 140+mph turbo and a waste on a stock cammed/headed engine.

 

[SGRIM]

Like said above the old style 67 is still an awesome turbo and can be bought at a good price... If you got enough converter for it I would go for it. Buying all these small turbo's is like a family of 6 buying a civic...

 

[Pronto]

The OP makes it clear he's looking for easy 11.5s and maybe faster. With his engine's setup the "small" turbo easily gets the job done and like Bison and others said, it leaves money for heads. It also would be fun on the street. Now if right off the bat he said he was looking to run 10.7 then he still would be head/cam limited even with a new whiz bang turbo.

 

[jdpolzin]

I disagree. He has an xfi. This will give him a huge advantage with the adjustability and enable him to quickly dial in his combo. Hes looking for reliable solid 11.50.

Right, but having an XFI doesnt mean he can go out and run a big turbo.

 

[jdpolzin]

The OP makes it clear he's looking for easy 11.5s and maybe faster. With his engine's setup the "small" turbo easily gets the job done and like Bison and others said, it leaves money for heads. It also would be fun on the street. Now if right off the bat he said he was looking to run 10.7 then he still would be head/cam limited even with a new whiz bang turbo.

If your going to start working the heads on the car, I would think you'd want a little more turbo after that. I'd still stick with a 63 or 64 and leave room to grow and tune from there.

 

[Pronto]

My point was to max out his current setup with the TE60. When he sees how it can do (11.5 should be easy), he can then make better decisions based on what his car can do at that point. After he has established his first goal, he could with the money saved look into heads and/or cam. With those and the TE60 10s are possible. Of course he's also in for all the safety equipment and other upgrades needed as well. If he's looking for 10s that ups the anty more. That might change his mind to go faster than his first goal as well. These are all personal choices the OP has to make for himself with his budget. With his current setup he looks to be 99% there. Chuck another $600 bucks at it and he's done. IMHO see alot of cars on the board that are miss matched with "growing into" parts and they should be way, way faster.

 

[Mr.Spool]

11.58-11.61 at 117mph at 20psi with a 1.58-1.61 60ft on a ta49.take your pick on the tire,i ran on a bfg ,mt,hoosier.and you won't even be able to see the boost needle movei like the smaller turbo's for the street and for your goals can't see why you would need a 9 second turbo for an 11 second goal

 

[GNBRETT]

Anyone wanting to go 11.50 is gonna wanna go 10.50 or better within a short amount of time. If he had a Honda then an 11.50 would be quite an accomplishment.

It's not a Honda and anyone runnen 11.50 is gonna want to run 10.50 or faster shortly thereafter and will be looken for a little more turbo.

 

[Pronto]

That's true but for guys like me, the money is just not there to go 10s. Best I can do right now is get the most out of my current combo.

 

[jasjamz]

I saw the title of this thread, covered my eyes with my hand, and shook my head. I knew it would turn out this way. I was told by a TR Guru years ago... Built a car to be a half a second faster than your goal if you don't want to risk breaking something everytime you try to hit that number.

You have some good stuff already but here is what I would add for reliability and performance without risking the big boom to the bank account.
Turbo: TE-63/TE-45. .63 precision or garret housing not a .81 $400-$600

Heads. Used set of Champion Irons or A set from a respectable TR builder.$800-$1000

Cam: "If" you do heads 206/206 hyd roller kit. $800

No need for converter change, you have the XFI(WB tune) and with E-85 you got a fuel system to support this stuff I hope.

Now, that is a high ten second combo maybe faster depending how hard you push it. "11.50 should be a cake walk" for that stuff, and it cost less than a Billet Ball Bearing Turbo. Stop B.S yourself with the 11.50 will be enough! When you get the 11.52@116 you will up the boost 3 psi and go for the 11.40.-11.35. Who are you kidding... not me! :biggrin: Now the Nitto thing...well thats a whole nother thread...

 

[Mr.Spool]

much bigger comittement to run 10.50's.

 

[jasjamz]

That's true but for guys like me, the money is just not there to go 10s. Best I can do right now is get the most out of my current combo.

Oh Please Pronto! A combo like yours can go in the tens with a little more tuning/boost and you know it! Not to mention you having those guys with that "fast womans car" nearby. 1.50 60'ft yeah your sand bagging.
How much boost you running? If it aint over 27 I rest my case.

 

[Pronto]

I saw the title of this thread, covered my eyes with my hand, and shook my head. I knew it would turn out this way. I was told by a TR Guru years ago... Built a car to be a half a second faster than your goal if you don't want to risk breaking something everytime you try to hit that number.

You have some good stuff already but here is what I would add for reliability and performance without risking the big boom to the bank account.
Turbo: TE-63/TE-45. .63 precision or garret housing not a .81 $400-$600

Heads. Used set of Champion Irons or A set from a respectable TR builder.$800-$1000

Cam: "If" you do heads 206/206 hyd roller kit. $800

No need for converter change, you have the XFI(WB tune) and with E-85 you got a fuel system to support this stuff I hope.

Now, that is a high ten second combo maybe faster depending how hard you push it. "11.50 should be a cake walk" for that stuff, and it cost less than a Billet Ball Bearing Turbo. Stop B.S yourself with the 11.50 will be enough! When you get the 11.52@116 you will up the boost 3 psi and go for the 11.40.-11.35. Who are you kidding... not me! :biggrin: Now the Nitto thing...well thats a whole nother thread...

I agree but I'm personally I'm not a big fan of a used turbo. He also doesn't mention any bottom end reinforcement. I know some supertuners have gone deep 10s with the stock bottom but I don't have the balls to do that.

Oh Please Pronto! A combo like yours can go in the tens with a little more tuning/boost and you know it! Not to mention you having those guys with that "fast womans car" nearby. 1.50 60'ft yeah your sand bagging.
How much boost you running? If it aint over 27 I rest my case.

Well, like I said, the best I can do is maximize my combo. I still have some tuning to play with, maybe some taller tires too. I'm in danger of being booted now as it is. Only know of one guy with a GT6131 that ran tens and that was with ported heads last year, he's disappeared since. Haven't seen any others posted. As you know, sage information from "those guys" has to sifted through. I've caught some "nuggets" panning though.:biggrin: Oh ya, I'm running 27lbs of boost, think my biggest issue is the stock heads.

 

[Pittsburghkid]

When you leave room to grow you run slow. Maxing out a TE60 would put you in the 10.70 range. The TE44 has been 10.80's on an unopened engine. You need to determine your goals then order the parts that will complement each other the most. In almost all instances you are better running smaller bolt ons harder than larger more expensive ones a little less hard. The only time id say this isnt true is with the fuel system. No point taking chances there. His goal is to have a solid 11.50 reliable car. My advise would be to go with a $600 journal turbo since they will easily move enough air to run very low 11's on a conservative tune and save the remaining $ for heads and suspension work. I wouldnt even switch cams for his application. With the TE 60 and heads the car will run 11.50@20psi with a good tune. Ball bearing turbos are a waste of $ on an application like this. Adding $1000 to the cost when you can get it done easily with the correct journal turbo. Even more true with a decent converter like the ATI he has. To be honest about outrunning anything on the street running under 20psi i dont see this as being realistic either. There are many cars out there that have 9 sec power and are regularly driven on the street.

I wanna know where you live that there are many 9 second cars driving around. Especially when you start running single digits numbers your starting to get into stuff thats not even street legal.

 

[jdpolzin]

I wanna know where you live that there are many 9 second cars driving around. Especially when you start running single digits numbers your starting to get into stuff thats not even street legal.

Our cars are easliy streetable with 9 second time slips under their belts. I dont have a time slip yet but I do have a car that will pull 9's. I cruise around with the AC and cruise control on all the time!!!

 

[norbs]

Show me one with a Cat converter on it running 9s!