Why is 30 amp fuse getting hot?

2QWIK4U

Member
Joined
May 27, 2001
I've got the hot wire kit straight off back of the alternator,to relay, to fuel pump. The 30 amp inline fuse is getting so hot it's melting the green plastic. Do I have a bad ground,alternator overcharging or fuel pump going bad? It hasn't blown the fuse yet, just melting the plastic.
 
Could be the ground or the pump going bad. I would also check the bulkhead for the pump. Definitely pulling a lot of amps

Bryan
 
Where are talking about checking the bulkhead???

are
I just checked where the hot wire kit is connected to the factory wire to pump connection and its hot to the touch. The hot wire of course is about two gauges bigger than the stock wire. Bad connection ?
I didn't take the tape off if yet to look.
 
The bulkhead is the plastic piece that the wires feed through the pump hanger. There have been several people show them with the wires burnt .

Bryan
 
The simple answer is if you have a 10 ga. power wire to an item, you MUST have a 10 ga. wire back to the battery for a ground.

The pump hot wire circuit from the alt terminal is a good source for power, but you also must have a good return path to the battery.

If you use the frame, chassis or body for a ground path this is completely unacceptable. :notworthy:

There is too much resistance unless you have a 10 ga. wire to the battery, or the engine block where the ground cable from the battery is located.

You would think a well-known vendor would not advocate a pump hot wire be grounded to the frame just because it is easy?
 
Fuse loose in the holder? [A cheapo fuse will do that, too. The fuse blades are undersize, and fit loose in the holder].
Tank grounded?
Check ohm readings on the grnds. Should be very low.
Check volt drop on both the pos and neg side of the circuit.
Check amp draw.
Gas ga reading funky? = bad tank ground.
If not, clean them and the ring terminals, tighten w/ some dielectric grease on them.
 
F
I just checked where the hot wire kit is connected to the factory wire to pump connection and its hot to the touch. The hot wire of course is about two gauges bigger than the stock wire. Bad connection ?
I didn't take the tape off if yet to look.
Fuse loose in the holder? [A cheapo fuse will do that, too. The fuse blades are undersize, and fit loose in the holder].
Tank grounded?
Check ohm readings on the grnds. Should be very low.
Check volt drop on both the pos and neg side of the circuit.
Check amp draw.
Gas ga reading funky? = bad tank ground.
If not, clean them and the ring terminals, tighten w/ some dielectric grease on them.
 
I do think they are cheapo fuses because I've had them a long time and the metal came loose from the plastic but I've got another issue also. I unplugged the hot wire and the connector to the pump is shorted to ground also. I can put power to that side of the connector and it lights up my test light.
I've had this set up for years and no problem until now so I've never ran a new ground. Once I find the short where do I need to hook up a 10 gauge wire for ground? One end to tank, other end to battery? Or what? Thx
 
If the connector to the pump is shorted you need to drop the tank and look at the hanger bulkhead and the pump wiring in the tank.

Bryan
 
I'll hafta wait til next weekend when my son is with his mom. My time is limited so I wanna have everything on hand at the shop ill need.
 
The tank can be out of the car in 15 minutes...if you take your time. Easy job to do. If you really dont have the time to do it today then get a flashlight and a mirror to try and see the wiring at the top of the hanger.

Bryan
 
I'm pretty sure you nailed it , Nick. Couldn't have explained it any clearer. I will keep that in mind myself. Mind if you tell me what food you eat that makes you so smart, so I can get at least one quarter of the way?:D

Bruce '87 Grand National
 
What is the best process for any & all grounds in this area? I have added grounds from engine to frame and engine to body in an attempt to make one solid ground for any and all additions or simply to improve factory aged system. Any suggestions??
 
Bruce, what I have learned about turbo Buicks is from MANY issues and mistakes over the 25 years I have been working on them, and getting my ass kicked a lot! :) Almost always one or more TR is here, or waiting for a place in line.

Anyway, I did learn NOT to use the frame/chassis ever for a ground as it is made up of many pieces and is a very poor conductor especially when compared to copper wire.

The factory never used the frame for any ground, but for non-critical electrical items like lights, horns, etc. they did use the body.

How many times have you heard the Scanmaster voltage reads much less than at the alt or battery? Just shows how much is lost when using a body ground.

Again, any direct current circuit MUST have a proper wire size and return path to the battery to function as it should.
 
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