Who's ready for some 3800 power?!

Have you looked at the factory L32 rods? They are cheap as and very strong. We had another car went 10.0@138 with a single gt3582r using the L32 rods. Quite strong.
Obviously the forged H beams are lighter but the L32 aint bad.

Are you using a SII block with the L32 rods?
 
Not to hijack this thread, but were the SII and SIII blocks the same for the NA and SC engines? I assume they are to be cost effective, but the SC version got different rods and pistons I'm sure.
I'm not sure about the differences between s2 and s3. If I was (and will be) building one of these I'll be scraping the stock pistons and rods and using a custom spec piston with a billet rod.


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Ran plenty of 11 sec passes on my stock l32 bottom end. In my fwd car running a Gt3582r at 22 psi with no issues.
 
I'm not sure about the differences between s2 and s3. If I was (and will be) building one of these I'll be scraping the stock pistons and rods and using a custom spec piston with a billet rod.


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Blocks are basically the same just different sensors and locations. Pauter already makes billet rods along with a couple down under. Zzperformance list a k1 look alike which would be plenty for just about anyone. Diamond, Aries and wiseco all have forged on the shelf pistons for this as long as you go with the 5.640 stock length rod. They have different cr also. So for the average person wanting to build it's there already.
 
They all seem to be a china rod. They all look the same. Our PPM and aussie Spool rods look identical too. Seen the zzp and k1 too all look the same.
 
Block wise ours is a series 2. It was originaly an L67. I havn't seen any differences between the NA and supercharged block.
 
I'm not sure about the differences between s2 and s3. If I was (and will be) building one of these I'll be scraping the stock pistons and rods and using a custom spec piston with a billet rod.

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Put my comment in the wrong place.

Best of luck with the your build, can't wait to see your results.
 
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Blocks are basically the same just different sensors and locations. Pauter already makes billet rods along with a couple down under. Zzperformance list a k1 look alike which would be plenty for just about anyone. Diamond, Aries and wiseco all have forged on the shelf pistons for this as long as you go with the 5.640 stock length rod. They have different cr also. So for the average person wanting to build it's there already.
Thanks. The reason I ask, my cousin might be selling his 2007 Grand Prix. It's not supercharged, which is good because it cost more for insurance. If I do buy it, for my son, we'll take our time and see what the better route is. Buy an L32 out right or pull the NA block and put forged internals in it and put a turbo on it. Again, I apologize for moving off topic. So I'll add an on topic comment.

Given the number of NA and Supercharged S2 and S3 blocks out there and their being "better" than the LC2 block, perhaps a vendor or vendor(s) might work on a conversion kit to be able to drop a S2 or S3 into a G-Body Turbo Regal. It would interesting to see if a L32 with an 2005 or beyond ECM would work, considering it had electronic throttle control.
 
For us old school Buick guys that dont trust the factory crank I am finishing up a retro fit of the GN eagle crank in the 3800 Block. Micro Polished steel eagle crank and 3800 H-beam rods pictured. I will open a thread in a couple weeks when this thing goes together.





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Is this crank for an off center block? Once you get started, please open up a thread. Love to see how your project goes.
 
You can buy a l32 but the pistons for anything above 400hp will still need to be changed. The cam should be changed for a turbo grind . You would just be buying it for the rods. Which are not expensive anyway. Plus the supercharge heads have the injector holes in them that would have to be plugged. So if you find a l67 cheep I'd go with that and put NA heads on it and be done. Based on my set up a kit wouldn't be hard for getting it installed but the electronics needs to be wired and depending what trans you use will all determine PCM used. 05 has a drive by wire and I wouldn't mess with it.
 
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This is our 750rwhp bottom end. Has about 15 10sec passes in it when it was M90 supercharged with Nitrous. Then switched to twin turbo, made around 20 - 30 9sec passes with it ( while tuning at the track ) and 6, 8 sec passes so far.
Just had it out over the weekend for a looky inside. The factory crank is damn strong. It was built in 2009.

That's some good stuff out of a v6 man! I like the deep skirt block on these motors. I'm rocking a ford 260 ci supercoupe block with about the same hardware you have pictured. My tuning abilities suck so I haven't run anywhere near where it should be. How much boost it take you to run into the 8's and what size turbos? I'm using a single s366 just shooting for low 6's (I only run 8th mile).
 
Sorry to take this off track.. but to answer we went 8.99@154 on 24psi boost with 2 gt3582r garretts. The more boost I add the more mph it piles on but et has only progressed to 8.81, mph is up to 158 with 28psi. Turns the tyres a lot now.
 
You can buy a l32 but the pistons for anything above 400hp will still need to be changed. The cam should be changed for a turbo grind . You would just be buying it for the rods. Which are not expensive anyway. Plus the supercharge heads have the injector holes in them that would have to be plugged. So if you find a l67 cheep I'd go with that and put NA heads on it and be done. Based on my set up a kit wouldn't be hard for getting it installed but the electronics needs to be wired and depending what trans you use will all determine PCM used. 05 has a drive by wire and I wouldn't mess with it.
We used the L67 heads for a long time with just 14mm freeze plugs in the injector holes. No problem.
 
Little late on this.. but my FWD setup, I used a 1996 SII block with 200k + miles on the original crank/rods/pistons and
pushed it to 10.4x's from 19-21psi. Covnerter slip was my issue. Plan on finally getting back to track with new
transmission of doom, and going for the mid 9s on the engine.

Its been debated alot of if the SIII rods are better than SII rods. I myself have seen more twisted up powdered metal rods from the SIII
than the old ones. I question the reason of GM changing them out. Its not like they added 100 hp or torque to the motor. I always felt it
was more of a cost cutting measure than anything.
 
Little late on this.. but my FWD setup, I used a 1996 SII block with 200k + miles on the original crank/rods/pistons and
pushed it to 10.4x's from 19-21psi. Covnerter slip was my issue. Plan on finally getting back to track with new
transmission of doom, and going for the mid 9s on the engine.

Its been debated alot of if the SIII rods are better than SII rods. I myself have seen more twisted up powdered metal rods from the SIII
than the old ones. I question the reason of GM changing them out. Its not like they added 100 hp or torque to the motor. I always felt it
was more of a cost cutting measure than anything.

Sounds like a good set up.
 
It's be cool to see more people get into this. We are looking at making some parts if there's enough demand .
 
Count me in for a "COMPLETE" Kit. Downpipe, headers, motor mounts, harness, computer, and all the other misc pieces that would be needed for a full drop in kit.


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