Who's put 6.5"s in the doors. Let's see some pics
- Thread starter BuickMike
- Start date
I think I found my answer. Check this out:
DIYMA.com - Scientific Car Audio - Truth in Sound Quality - View Single Post - Project GNIB - Grand National in a Box
DIYMA.com - Scientific Car Audio - Truth in Sound Quality - View Single Post - Project GNIB - Grand National in a Box
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
How about this? I did these myself. I only had to make one hole right at the edge of the door panel carpet. Not even noticeable and easily put back to stock if desired. I used Polk Audio db651 6.5" coaxials. They are surface mounted so there is no intrusion into the door cavity. I used those foam pockets on the backside of them for sound and weatherproofing as well.
6.5 focal k2p in my door
I would have nothing less than a 6.5 in my door . this door panel looks really good. GBodyParts.com Online
I would have nothing less than a 6.5 in my door . this door panel looks really good. GBodyParts.com Online
Hmmm, so many options. I had my wife put in her vote and she thinks I should get the G Body door panels. I'm starting to lean that way since I think putting the midbass in the doors will give better results than the kick panels. The would be a pita to seal up IMO.
Nasty Wendy
Perverted Lurker
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
My opinion is that the Q-logic kickpanels are the way to go. You will get better imaging due to the positioning of the speakers. The Q-logics angle the speakers to put them on axis and that is the biggest reason why they sound better (thats especially important for the tweeters). Being farther to the front of the car helps as well. The GBodyParts doorpanels are very nice and if you want your speakers in the door they are the way to go. My question for you is why do you want to drive the mid-bass frequencies so hard? Ever notice how a speaker sounds different in a gymnasium or a garage vs. in your home? Every environment 'colors' the sound any speaker produces. The typical car interior colors sound by enhancing the midbass tones. The typical car will resonate somewhere in the ballpark of 180hz which smack in the midbass frequency range. Back in the day A/D/S designed their crossovers to compensate for this by crossing the highs over somewhere above 180hz and the lows somewhere below 180hz and let the car's interior do the work to keep the response flat @180hz rather than making a peak there. I'm not trying to tell you how to listen to your music as everyone is entitled to build their system to play music the way THEY like to hear it. If you want to bump the shidt out of your midbass then more power to you. I just wanted you to be aware of the fact that your midbass will be there without going crazy trying to reproduce it.
Thanks Wendy. It just seems like lately my systems are all lacking in midbass. It's probably because I prefer to set my crossover point on my subs around 80Hz. They just sound so much cleaner and tighter that way. I guess I'm lacking in the 120-150Hz area and that's what I'm trying to make up for. I do like the positioning of the Q Forms. The reason I got spun up on the G Body door panels is because it's good bang for the buck considering you get a set of whole lower door panels for around $180. I'm already replacing the upper panels, why not do the whole thing. I like the look too. I do have to say they're my least favorite option as far as speaker positioning is concerned. I would just put some midbass drivers in there and put my tweeters in the kick panels.
I have CDT CL 62 Pros laying around.
CL 62 PRO
I'm thinking about putting the 6.5"s in the doors or kicks depending on what I decide, putting the main tweeters in the kicks, and trying out the imaging tweeters in the dash poining at the windshield. Thoughts?
I have CDT CL 62 Pros laying around.
CL 62 PRO
I'm thinking about putting the 6.5"s in the doors or kicks depending on what I decide, putting the main tweeters in the kicks, and trying out the imaging tweeters in the dash poining at the windshield. Thoughts?
Nasty Wendy
Perverted Lurker
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Personally my opinion is that it would sound better with the single set of tweeters in the kickpanel. Put your 6.5s in the door if thats where you want them. I did a little write up on what my system is going to be and I'll have 4" mids in the door. Its not out of the question that I'll get those G-body panels and put my 6.5s in the door instead and mount the 4"s in the kickpanel. Typically the smaller the speaker the higher the frequencies that they'll be used to reproduce. The lower the frequency the less directional they become. It only stands to reason that if you have a multi speaker component (2way , 3way ect) and one of the speakers will have to go in the door that you'd want the biggest one there. If you place the tweeters in the kickpanel area and point them on axis to your listening position then you will be fine. The more I think about it the more I like the idea for my system of putting the 6.5 in the door and the 4" in the kickpanel with the tweeter using G-Body's doorpanel. However if I was only using a 2 way component both speakers would be in the kickpanel because it can accomodate them.
Now here is something that you need to know. 120-150hz is not midbass. Those are bass frequencies. Remember that box in your trunk is called as SUB-woofer. The very name tells that its job is to reproduce notes that are below those handled by the woofer. If you want to build a system that will nail those 120-150hz notes my suggestion is to build 2 small enclosures in the void of your rear sail panel and seal it tight and put an 8" in each one. If you use acoustically transparent covering and color match it you could counter sink the speaker in the enclosure and cover completely over the whole thing. It would be unnoticed by anyone not looking for it. Truly the only way anyone looking for it would notice it would be the fact that it wouldn't have verticle stitches in the covering so if you went as far as to have the covering stitched it woud be as good as invisible. Remember that by using a 2-way component you are forcing the same speaker that handles the mids to also handle the frequencies all the way down to the sub's crossover point. The component speakers can handle those frequencies but to enhance their presence you would need to box in the back side of the 6.5" and understand that it will comprimise the clarity of the mids. That dedicated woofer would dramatically clean up the mids as well as provide you with your missing midbass. It sounds to me like ideally a 3-way active crossover system is needed to run your 6.5" seperates at 150hz and up and a set of woofers from 80-150hz, and lastly your sub at 80hz and down.
Truly there are many ways to skin this cat.
Now here is something that you need to know. 120-150hz is not midbass. Those are bass frequencies. Remember that box in your trunk is called as SUB-woofer. The very name tells that its job is to reproduce notes that are below those handled by the woofer. If you want to build a system that will nail those 120-150hz notes my suggestion is to build 2 small enclosures in the void of your rear sail panel and seal it tight and put an 8" in each one. If you use acoustically transparent covering and color match it you could counter sink the speaker in the enclosure and cover completely over the whole thing. It would be unnoticed by anyone not looking for it. Truly the only way anyone looking for it would notice it would be the fact that it wouldn't have verticle stitches in the covering so if you went as far as to have the covering stitched it woud be as good as invisible. Remember that by using a 2-way component you are forcing the same speaker that handles the mids to also handle the frequencies all the way down to the sub's crossover point. The component speakers can handle those frequencies but to enhance their presence you would need to box in the back side of the 6.5" and understand that it will comprimise the clarity of the mids. That dedicated woofer would dramatically clean up the mids as well as provide you with your missing midbass. It sounds to me like ideally a 3-way active crossover system is needed to run your 6.5" seperates at 150hz and up and a set of woofers from 80-150hz, and lastly your sub at 80hz and down.
Truly there are many ways to skin this cat.
Damn. I keep going back and forth. I'm worried people will keep kicking my speakers if I put the Q forms in. Part of me wants to just do the 6.5's in the doors, go old school and put my Coustic XM5e to work by using the center channel processor and put in a center channel speaker as a band aid. Hmmmmmmm.....
GlockandRoll
Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2009
That's my car.. he he.
GlockandRoll
Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2009
You really have very few choices in the stock door-panels, becuase as you discovered the window motor is in the way. These are the neodymium magnet Focals, not cheap and they really dont produce as much mid-bass punch as I would like. The easiest thing to do, bar none, that would produce the best sound quality would be to use a set of Q-forms and you can put a 5.25 and tweeter in them. You can run a 6x9" woofer in the rear deck and band pass cross it over from say 120-500hz, and use a powered tube or something similar as a sub-woofer in the trunk. Another option would be to build out the door panels using fiberglass, but I would still - as Wendy advises - put the tweeters in the kick panel for stereo imaging.
GlockandRoll
Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2009
This is my front stage.. even with a modest single 5x amplifier I'm able to replicate what sitting front-row at a concert sounds like at highway speeds with the tops off. no joke either.
GlockandRoll
Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2009
Shown will the grills on.
GlockandRoll
Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2009
Image Dynamics CD2Comp, they sound good.. you know they are horns, but they are the most winning-est (is that a word?) pair of HLCD's on the market last I recall.
You will enjoy the Q-forms, just be sure to put some dynamat or something else that will add some density too them, otherwise they sound kind of hollow, I guess it is becuase they are resonating.
You will enjoy the Q-forms, just be sure to put some dynamat or something else that will add some density too them, otherwise they sound kind of hollow, I guess it is becuase they are resonating.
GlockandRoll
Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2009
I have never been really good at the google thing,i always get the bottom of the barrel results--sorryGoogle just called to apologize for those results.
