Which is Better?

[83turbomon]

I was doing some reading on the b4 black website and he stated that when it comes to air filters, to either go to a 3 inch dryer duct, or replace the box, which is what I want to do... but which is better, and what is the part number for the cone air filter?

 

[mat231v6]

i think it would do better to change the box; or just put a air cleaner on the carb.

 

[usetaboost]

There are a few different ways to go about it. If you want to do it cheap get the dryer duct and buy a spectre air filter cone. They have a different sleeves for multiple applications. Sometimes you can find a k&n in the parts section for 20 shipped.

If you want it to look nice buy a CAI for a honda civic and buy a 9 inch cone for the end of it. It would be a nicer looking and complement your carb bonnet.

The dryer duct may be the way to go. You could route it right behind the headlight away from all the heat from the radiator and engine.

 

[83turbomon]

Which One?

I think that for me that removing the box filter will be easier, but I know that there is something that I need to do afterward, like plugging in a hose or something.

I dont know about the civic CAI, that looks kinda ricy. the dryer hose I believe will have the most performance advantage. So which one...

the first or second....?

 

[usetaboost]

I would go with the dryer duct so you can get the cooler air. Notice how the first pic has the filter somewhat close to the radiator and fan? It's possible that you could suck in some warm air.

So, do the dryer duct and cone filter. unhook/plug vacuum lines. You may even be able to get rid of a few of the vac lines all together. Pull the air filter canister out and set it on the shelf. I would put on a spectre cone filter unless you come across a new K&n cheaper.

When you get everything rounded up to do this, I would do a FULL tune up. Set your plug gap at 32-35

 

[charlief1]

Looks like the carbon canister has been removed. You could cut a hole there and snake the hose up to the front of the car and put the filter there.

 

[usetaboost]

There is not that much to be gained temp wise once the vehicle starts moving. I would just keep it right behind the headlights. Stays cleaner longer.

 

[83turbomon]

Looks like the carbon canister has been removed. You could cut a hole there and snake the hose up to the front of the car and put the filter there.

Thats what that thing is... Dont you need that? I can cut a hole out where the canister used to be?

 

[83turbomon]

There is not that much to be gained temp wise once the vehicle starts moving. I would just keep it right behind the headlights. Stays cleaner longer.

true... okay I need to go find some dryer ducting and an air filter, and unplug the hoses from the canister.

 

[charlief1]

Thats what that thing is... Dont you need that? I can cut a hole out where the canister used to be?

If you don't have emmisions you can get rid of the canister but if you plan on having the puter do it's job it may set a check engine light. If you put the filter behind the head light it would be easiest.

 

[murphinator]

the dryer ducting one will outflow the one with the 90* bend not to mention the heat like the post above mentioned with the filter behind the rad.

 

[83turbomon]

If you don't have emmisions you can get rid of the canister but if you plan on having the puter do it's job it may set a check engine light. If you put the filter behind the head light it would be easiest.

so the air intake is attached to the canister? And what size air filter will fit the ducting?

 

[charlief1]

The air intake isn't attached to the intake manifold but it should have lines attached to the carb. If you plug them the puter may throw a code.

 

[83turbomon]

The air intake isn't attached to the intake manifold but it should have lines attached to the carb. If you plug them the puter may throw a code.

Charlie... I dont think anything electronic besides the dashboard light (and only sometimes) work. The cruise control light comes on, but nothing happens, the turbo light only works when it wants to, and the speedo jumps all around. I cant even tell if my car has ECM on it. And I tried to find the turbo guage control on the firewall, but it looks like the all of the wires have been glued in with this black dirty gunk. Sigh... its alot of work. I should just hire some of you guys to do it... how does 10g's sound

 

[charlief1]

Get Ken to help you kid. He's user friendly after all. LOL

 

[dr_frankenstein]

nobody said working on cars was easy.... patience is the key.

Imyself would ditch the factory air intake stuff alltogether and run a nice velocity stack on the carb.

i like holes in the hood though.

A.j.

 

[WkillGS]

I did that on my 79. Made an aluminum pan with foam at the edges to seal to the underside of the hood. Then cut some openings in the back of the hood bulge for the inlet. Air filter was the old Weiand Lynx that used the foam filter.
Looked cool, but it wasn't the best choice for a filter.

The old Hot Rod article 'Sunday Driver' said the stock air cleaner was very restrictive. Have you guys found that to be true?

 

[charlief1]

It's not that the filter itself is restrictive as much as the air box and filter together. If you take a look at Kirbans he has an aluminum plate that takes the place of the top and allows for better flow. Look at the surface area of the stock filter and compair it to one of the K&N filters. Not to much different. It's just that the combination of the system sucks overall.

 

[usetaboost]

It is the canister that is restrictive. The openin is barely big enough to stick 3 fingers in. I can't see why it wouldn't choke itself out and knock under boost Why cut a perfectly good hood up? I would just do the dryer duct and route it behind the headlight. Done. DOn't have to worry about cleaning the filter all the time and it will get good fresh air. Won't have to worry about it getting wet either and it looks good.

 

[usetaboost]

BTW, it snowed all last night. Don't know how much but it was enough for my neighbor to take his snowblower to the sidewalks. I left a message on my friend's phone to call me and let me know how bad the rural area is. I would like to get it today because I have to pick a package up anyway. It could be different in your case for shipping but I talked to keith and he said he boxed one up and got a quote for roughly the same distance and said it was around 150 bucks because of the box size. I don't know why so much, I shipped a bumper support for 25 but that was without a box so maybe that's why.

If you want to replace motors I would just buy new. I got some track pieces, but I may need them for my car because of rust issues in the doors and I know some things are busted for sure. If you take the door panels off and lube up tracks and stuff, either use some light lithium grease or wd40 helps a lot also for the rollers and hard to reach places. Don't use anything heavy for grease. Learned that lesson on my camaro. Doesn't turn out good when it gets cold out Make sure you clean out the bottom of your doors the best you can before you start this and make sure the drain holes are not plugged. Are there any other small pieces you may need?