Where to plumb Boost Gauge?

jawort0

Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Where is the best place to tap into the air handling system for my mechanical boost gauge on my 87 TR?

Thanks, Joe
 
How do I convert the 1/8 NPT fitting to the vaccum lines? I have looked for a T fitting with hose barbs and an 1/8 NPT fitting, but cannot find.
 
Heres where I did mine
100_2126.jpg
 
MAP or FPR vac hose.

No.. never use the FP hose. If the connection pops off.. you'll toast your motor.

Never use MAP hose if you run an alky system Same reason.

Charcoal cannister hose is the one to use. Like on the picture above.

HTH
 
If you have a Turbo Tweak chip and your state doesn't check for emission controls, just use the line off the EGR, make sure you remove the inline check valve. This is how I did mine. Works great.
 
I drilled the back of the intake for a 3/8 NTP and ran a line to a 6 port vacuum block. Don’t know how well it works car isn’t put totally back together yet.
 
If you have a Turbo Tweak chip and your state doesn't check for emission controls, just use the line off the EGR, make sure you remove the inline check valve. This is how I did mine. Works great.

WTF?? Terrible advise!! :eek: If you're going to use that line, just tap into the line at the inlet of the check valve and leave the CV intact so the egr doesn't see positive pressure and blow the diaphram.... duh???? :confused:
 
No.. never use the FP hose. If the connection pops off.. you'll toast your motor.

Never use MAP hose if you run an alky system Same reason.

Charcoal cannister hose is the one to use. Like on the picture above.

HTH


LOL, so many caveats. I tapped into the MAP sensor line per the instructions on gnttype.org. Thanks for the heads up, I'll have to remember to relocate mine after installing Alky.
 
WTF?? Terrible advise!! :eek: If you're going to use that line, just tap into the line at the inlet of the check valve and leave the CV intact so the egr doesn't see positive pressure and blow the diaphram.... duh???? :confused:

True, if you need the EGR. With a TT chip, remove the EGR valve and use a block plate. This is how I'm doing mine, just come straight off the vac port, use an in-line reducer, and a zip tie for security.
 
WTF?? Terrible advise!! :eek: If you're going to use that line, just tap into the line at the inlet of the check valve and leave the CV intact so the egr doesn't see positive pressure and blow the diaphram.... duh???? :confused:

Whoa there Brian. Put the crack pipe down for just a minute.

What's wrong with removing the hose off the EGR sol (which comes directly off the hose manifold at the TB) and using it to run a boost gauge? Is it really any different than any of the other hoses that feed off this to run things like the MAP, FPR, etc?

Also FWIW I threw out my EGR and put on a block off, along with the solenoid. Which left me with one unused line. So if my way is incorrect, I've been running it this way for 2.5 years now, did I just get lucky?
 
WTF?? Terrible advise!! :eek: If you're going to use that line, just tap into the line at the inlet of the check valve and leave the CV intact so the egr doesn't see positive pressure and blow the diaphram.... duh???? :confused:

I think you mis understood me. What I was trying to say is if you didn't need the EGR, you could remove the line that goes to the EGR solenoid, and use the EGR solenoid line to run the boost gauge. No way boost is going to blow up an EGR valve if the line is being used elsewhere. ;)

And yes you are right I would not remove the check valve for the EGR line if the line was being used for the EGR, what I was trying to say there was if you decided to use the EGR solenoid line to run a boost gauge, to ensure it doesn't have a check valve/remove it if it does. Otherwise yes leave the check valve on if you're still using the line to run the EGR but remove it if you plan to run only a gauge.

Clear as mud yet?

Sorry if I confused anyone here.
 
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