when driving with a stageright in.....

[flowerpower]

For those's who read this area will know I put in a stage right in...since then ....Well I'll tell ya what I think of it...When I start from a "transbrake d1" and move the shifter to D3 it shifts one time.... and feels like the stall is flashing higher when driving ...what it takes to move the car when driving is about 2400rpms in D3...
This is the way it works?....Anyone who had one of these or is useing one please chime in...AND no please "there junk...I told ya...I had one and here.." If you tryed it at one time then you were once in the same spot I'm in 2nd guessing yourself...

 

[mikestertwo]

You have something wrong Once you come out of "D1" it should shift like a normal trans. I have been running one for a couple of years with no issues. Haven't broken anything either (not yet anyway)

 

[KL Mallender]

I may be of assistance if you need help, I think I might know a "Little" about the StageRight transbrake, pm me if serious. take care.

Kevin.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Since that's not a normal shifting procedure for a trans and those of us with a Stageright don't have this issue I'd start with your install process.

And take Mallender up on his offer, he knows a wee bit more than a "Little" about the Stageright.

BTW, if you don't have a billet forward drum you're on borrowed time if you have Drag Radials.

 

[Blazer406]

I may be of assistance if you need help, I think I might know a "Little" about the StageRight transbrake, pm me if serious. take care.

Kevin.

You ever seen one of those?

J/K :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

 

[flowerpower]

I may be of assistance if you need help, I think I might know a "Little" about the StageRight transbrake, pm me if serious. take care.

Kevin.

Just wondering if you got my PM .....

"Everyone"...This is what I found fixing a Vac leak on top of the TB.... It was the TV cable is sticking out no more then a 1/4inc where it clips onto the TB....now in side every bolt was taken out and layed in a way so I new that this bolt went here then here...etc

All ball's went in there spot as the paper showed and hole's drilled and debured
....I'm thinking that little "s" shaped hook where the TV cable hooks to the valve body might of came off....Now when my shifter cable comes I was going to drop the front of the pan and look..

Does this sound about right to everyone...The TV isnt hooked up to the valvebody and thats the new piece from the Stageright kit not letting it shift right...All 1-2 springs and 3-4 springs went back as they came out...Alll wires cliped in and on where they should be...

I just keep going over and over the install in my head and I know everything went as it should...Well if it comes down to it I'll just take the valvebody off and look over every little thing..

Thanks for the help and info guys!!!

 

[KL Mallender]

Hi Eric, If I'm reading this properly you are having trouble with shifting after using brake, if you are sure that you have tv linkage adjusted properly so that you won't be operating at low line pressures, try running thru the gears with the car on jackstands, if you put the shifter in D3 and wheels stopped, let off foot brake with engine at light throttle it should start in 1st and shift twice, 1-2, 2-3, you should feel and see the shifts from speedometer increase. If the tv check ball is in place(at right front edge of case) and the linkage is misalligned or missing this would lock "tv" pressure at max not allowing downshifts via cable, can also cause 2nd gear starts.

Kevin.

 

[bmackinnon]

if you are sure that you have tv linkage adjusted properly so that you won't be operating at low line pressures,
Kevin.

I'm no tranny expert, but I'm going to guess you hit it right there.... I'm also guessing it's a BAD thing to be driving the car, at all, in that condition....

 

[flowerpower]

Well I got my shifter cable yesterday and then my new handle "TR one" Anyway what I was getting at was thinking that the TV might be unhooked at the valvebody at the "S" shaped hook....And shifting at "D3" was it one or two shifts?
Now that I got all the parts I need ....I'm going to work on it today..."after I get the wife something for sweetest day"..:redface: ...I'll let ya's know what I find after I get the parts in and the pan droped...

But thanks for all the help and info guys!!!

 

[Silver 'T' Top]

well?

 

[flowerpower]

Well I pulled the pan and seen that little spring coming out the side where the TV cable hooks on that piece you spin alittle bit then put the small spring around what looks like a cotter pin......I fixed that and it shifts good ,the SR works ....but it seems like it doesnt want to bulid boostpast 2lbs?...any ideas?

 

[Blazer406]

Well I pulled the pan and seen that little spring coming out the side where the TV cable hooks on that piece you spin alittle bit then put the small spring around what looks like a cotter pin......I fixed that and it shifts good ,the SR works ....but it seems like it doesnt want to bulid boostpast 2lbs?...any ideas?

Do you know if the wastegate puck is sealing off?

 

[KL Mallender]

Glad to hear you've got the transmission sorted, I assume you have a decent torque converter in place and remember that once you do get the boost up you'll "Try" to keep from pulling more than 20 lbs when using the brake, heat builds up FAST.

1. When diagnoissing a spooll up problem look for "ANY" leaks on pressure sides,(Turbo / Intercooler / Intake connections) (Exhaust manifolds / crossover / wastegate /turbo mount). Having the smallest leak will cause this type of problem, so double check hose connections and pipes for any signs of leakage.

2. Wastegate, hose routing to and from controller(can be very confuseing)

Good luck,

Kevin.

 

[flowerpower]

Will the stall make high boost with a stageright.......I've got a orange stripe in therte but it wonlt bulid $h&^......o-yea TE60 with 50lbs

Ant ideas?

 

[KL Mallender]

Most aftermarket turbos will require a higher than stock stall speed to let the turbo "Sign On", once a turbo gets in it's range (Typically once boost gets to 5-7 lbs) the compressor is ready to give you whatever you may want) but matching a converter with engine combo is difficult with all the different parts used, ie: low base compression/bigger camshaft profile/higher flowing turbo all require that higher stall will be needed because any of these upgrades will usually degrade low rpm torque output to the point that the engine will not achieve the stock stall speed. If you can drive the car while having a friend watches the guages, take note of engine rpm when boost begins(threshold) and when boost takes off (efficiency island) usually around 7 lbs. Having that information to give is the quickest way for a converter selection. Just remember that if you have ANY leaks in the system you will NEVER get proper info back, so fix them first, dead serious, you will waste your time if you dont handle them I don't care how small.

Kevin.