I have a 1986 GN. When i got it was stock. I have changed the chip and injectors with ones from Turbo Twitte. I just put in a new stage 1 transmission from Extreme Automatic. I have changed the coil pack and the tires. When I got this car it would turn the tires from a stand still and when the turbo kicked in at 30 to 40 MPH. Now it will not turn them at all. What have I done wrong. What do I need to go back and change. Could it be the transmission? Please help.
What when wrong?
- Thread starter 86-2fast
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2011
Who put the trans in?...it should not go backwards in performance if that's all you did as you stated.. check the Throttle Valve cable!! to see if its set properly...2200-2400 stall with the stock turbo it should still Ripp!
I put the trans in myself. The new trans shifts good and hard but does not perform. Before the Transmission and new tires it would ripp the tires off. Like I said why I had the Transmission out I changed the chip and injectors ,the coil pack and the tires. I adjusted the TVC to stop the car from jumping in and out of OD.
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2011
Oh ok, not saying your not qualified , just seen a lot of people go to the corner repair/friends/family shop and seen this critical point botched up many times and blow $2500 transmissions...
Could be the tires(Indy500's), believe it or not. I used to have a set of tires 255/60-15's that were extremely sticky for a street tire. Really had to pour the wood to it to turn them over, even from a dead stop, forget trying to spin them from a roll.
I have since returned my car to stock appearing (externally), and have a set of stock sized Goodyear Eagle GTII's on there. It takes absolutely NO effort to spin them, even from high speed rolls. Traction really sucks with these.
Maybe you moved from hard compound, easilly spun tires to something with WAY better traction.
I have since returned my car to stock appearing (externally), and have a set of stock sized Goodyear Eagle GTII's on there. It takes absolutely NO effort to spin them, even from high speed rolls. Traction really sucks with these.
Maybe you moved from hard compound, easilly spun tires to something with WAY better traction.
What kind of tires did you put on?
Even though it doesn’t spin the tires does the car feel faster, the same as before or slower?
This is why thru lots of research on here I’ve learned to change one thing at a time.
It makes it easier to find an issue.
Start by replacing the old items you removed that are easiest to change.
Coil pack, chip, injectors, tires if possible. ONE AT A TIME and see what happens.
A scan master is also crucial to get readings.
D
Even though it doesn’t spin the tires does the car feel faster, the same as before or slower?
This is why thru lots of research on here I’ve learned to change one thing at a time.
It makes it easier to find an issue.
Start by replacing the old items you removed that are easiest to change.
Coil pack, chip, injectors, tires if possible. ONE AT A TIME and see what happens.
A scan master is also crucial to get readings.
D
The OP never answered this question. If you went from a street tire to a drag radial there's the answer. Plain and simple.
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Not even close to enough info here. We have no idea how the motor runs now, how much boost, the rest of the combo, etc.
My advice is to take your car to someone who knows these cars local and can throw it on a dyno with a wideband to get it properly dialed in.
If all you are concerned about is smoking the tires, throw some donut spares on the back and have at it.
My advice is to take your car to someone who knows these cars local and can throw it on a dyno with a wideband to get it properly dialed in.
If all you are concerned about is smoking the tires, throw some donut spares on the back and have at it.
So do you have a boost gauge? Going off wheel spin is too vague to diagnose, especially when you change tires. I would go off any changes in peak boost and how fast it spools. What are you doing for boost control? I'm just going to assume you are using a 91 classic chip from TT and boost is being controlled in the chip using the stock solenoid.
If you are saying that it is slow to build boost, then yes I would say that is a converter that is way too tight. Advertised stall speed is really not accurate as different companies advertise that number based on different variables. They may have been basing that 2200 on a motor putting out way more low end torque than yours. If you plan to keep the stock turbo, you want something that can flash to around 3000RPM in order to take advantage of the peak torque range on a stock motor.
If you are saying that it is slow to build boost, then yes I would say that is a converter that is way too tight. Advertised stall speed is really not accurate as different companies advertise that number based on different variables. They may have been basing that 2200 on a motor putting out way more low end torque than yours. If you plan to keep the stock turbo, you want something that can flash to around 3000RPM in order to take advantage of the peak torque range on a stock motor.
