what to get first?

ok will do, as far as the fuel pressure gauge do i need one inside or do yall just get the one that mounts on the fuel rail?
 
Tar is a late model corrosion inhibitor; you can clean with card cleaner and scraping out with whatever fit's. You can ck the fan relay by popping the cover of and looking. Since it looks like you in need of some restoration I would accept the advice about vacuum hoses, clean connections, plugs, etc. I have a pwr logger and scan master with a chiped ecm for sale. PM me and we can talk numbers if you want?Update your sig so people can give you sound advice for upgrades. Go to gnttype.org for some good info.
 
Went out and bought some hose, oil change stuff. gonna try vr1 synthetic 10-30w.to cold and nasty out there to do anything today though!
 
Went out and bought some hose, oil change stuff. gonna try vr1 synthetic 10-30w.to cold and nasty out there to do anything today though!
 
ive been looking everywhere trying to figure out how to do that setup without drilling holes or such because the gauges im wanting says must be mounted outside. now im wondering if anybody has mounted one of the mechanical gauges inside with no gas fumes etc,i know its really dangerous if a person was to crash or fitting come loose or something:eek:
 
WVhillbilly said:
ive been looking everywhere trying to figure out how to do that setup without drilling holes or such because the gauges im wanting says must be mounted outside. now im wondering if anybody has mounted one of the mechanical gauges inside with no gas fumes etc,i know its really dangerous if a person was to crash or fitting come loose or something:eek:
Click to expand...
You never want to bring fuel into the cockpit. You don't want to drill holes in your hood and I understand why. You can use any pressure 0-100 lbs gauge and some rubber hose to test your fuel pressure. A gauge that measures pressure up to 60 lbs would work.Remove the schrader valve from your fuel rail. Clamp a rubber hose to the end of the fuel rail. Clamp the other end of the hose to a gauge and tape it to the hood or windshield in such a way that allows you to view it. Floor it. I think double sided spongy tape and silicone would be an effective way to mount that gauge. I like having the gauge in front of me all the time because fuel pressure is so critical to these cars. Here are two ideas. I'm sure you can figure something out.
 
Do not use synthetic oil. Use a conventional oil and add STP oil treatment for older engines.
 
WVhillbilly said:
It runs strong-no issues with that, just wanted to beef it up some. some of you guys have awesome car's and may have done something different if given the opportunity to do over. I'm trying to put together a plan to follow to maybe be able to run in the 12 second range.
Click to expand...

Oh boy, this sounds just like my car. 36,000 miles and I wanted to leave it mostly stock... (That went out the window) The reason others are telling you Pump, scanmaster etc is these cars have a lot of bugs.. Parts that can barely support what the car is stock. Do not worry about power yet. (TRUST ME) Work on reliability issues and a good baseline. What you think is "a strong running car" Will be wasted money and an eventual hurt motor if you do not. By doing the essentials you are building a reliable baseline that will (support or) allow you to turn up the power when everything is in line. If I had a dollar for every dollar I wasted on stupid $hit I could build another half a car or motor.

For oil I personally use this: http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...0w-40-synthetic-premium-protection-motor-oil/
Just don't buy crap and use ZDDP with every oil change regardless of oil. Biggie oil filter adapter is a good idea too. At the very least use the PF52 sized filter and not the 47.

Alky was one of the last things I did to my car and should have been the first AFTER you get the baseline items. I did however start this journey in 04 when the only kit out there was smc which was not that great which is why I built around 100 octane fuel. Now I use the Alky control kit, it is awesome. Julio has freed us from the race gas pumps.. You at least have 93 octane which is much better than CA 91 crap.

Racetronix fuel pump and hotwire seems to be the best around.. Cheaper ones do not take care of ground issues like his kit does.

They are all right on the scanmaster too, my car was from Canada. I did not know until I got a scanmaster but it was knocking like a bitch$ on california fuel as a bone stock car every time I hit it.... You just have no idea what is going on with what seems like a "strong running car" until you have a scanmaster.
 
Thanks scott I appreciate all the comments from you guys! Really helps keep me in check = if not for your alls wisdom I would run out and get a bigger turbo and injectors etc bolt them on and see what she's got lol.
 
jasjamz said:
Do not use synthetic oil. Use a conventional oil and add STP oil treatment for older engines.
Click to expand...
Valvoline VR1 is good oil with a lot of zinc. Using conventional oil with STP is a step in the right direction,but it still won't have enough zinc in it. Here is another oil that I and many others use. It is a blend of conventional and synthetic oils and has a lot of zinc.

http://www.penngrade1.com/
 
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