what to get first?

I like the Autometer Ultra Lite gauges personally, I ripped out all my vdo gauges.... I will NEVER buy VDO EVER again...

My oil pressure gauge (VDO) was off by almost 20psi, volt gauge (VDO) was off by 1.5 volts and coolant (VDO) was off by 10... Installed Autometer gauges using the same wiring I had put in for the VDO's and they were spot on...

Scott

Were they electronic or manual? If electronic, were the grounds enough and good contact. The electronic ones are known to be iffy when the ground connections are shotty.
 
WV I heard braided are def better . I just could not afford them at the time . Brake lines and checking your brake pads should have been my first update . From the Hard line to the caliper . We dont drive these cars often and then get in them an beat on them. The old lines swell once the fluid gets hot . The ability to stop the car is the more important than how fast you can go . It is also a big reason why PM fail . I wish some had given me this advice before I put the first go fast part on . Driving my car without the ability to stop it scared me . ripped out the PM put in vacuum got new calipers, shoes and rotors and in the end all it was was 25 year old brake hoses
 
Were they electronic or manual? If electronic, were the grounds enough and good contact. The electronic ones are known to be iffy when the ground connections are shotty.

As in my previous post: "Installed Autometer gauges using the same wiring I had put in for the VDO's and they were spot on"...
Meaning the Autometer worked perfectly using the same wiring as VDO gauges.
 
Where can I get the braided oil line from Scott? I am going to do the live oil gauge also

I had them custom made at a hydraulic line place.. Any place that works with -3 line will do it for you.. I also did my Turbo feed line. I changed the brass block on the bottom of the motor to use all 3/8 npt I think.. (Don't know NPT too well whatever size is in block).. Made it easier to add lines so I could use stock sender as well as feed line for turbo and for pressure guage.

This was the style of ball valve I used, was not this exact one, but same Idea. Just make sure it is suitable for oil and can hold back 100 psi.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-230501erl
 
I also noticed comments on Synthetic oil in your thread... I can tell you this, I use nothing but synthetic and will never use anything else..

Having said that I have seen what others fear in 1 occasion on an 86 T-Type that was using conventional oil. He decided he wanted to go synthetic and within 20 minutes of changing the oil was pissing out the rear main. My car however did not leak when converting to synthetic.. But It can happen, synthetic is a good idea just be prepared for the possibility of the rear main to go out... It is not hard to change with some mechanical ability and costs like 20 bucks. So if this is your only car, be prepared and don't do it the night before a big road trip..
 
I had them custom made at a hydraulic line place.. Any place that works with -3 line will do it for you.. I also did my Turbo feed line. I changed the brass block on the bottom of the motor to use all 3/8 npt I think.. (Don't know NPT too well whatever size is in block).. Made it easier to add lines so I could use stock sender as well as feed line for turbo and for pressure guage.

This was the style of ball valve I used, was not this exact one, but same Idea. Just make sure it is suitable for oil and can hold back 100 psi.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-230501erl

Any Pics of the setup?
 
No but I can take some... Will be Wednesday or Thursday. My sons room is over the garage so I can't open the door and pop the hood after he goes to bed. (He is 19 months old).
 
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