What does my tune need?

Yep. Same problem I had. If you still had the gen 2 hooked up I'd say go into low and mid range and start with a 10% fuel pull. When you start pullin' it, for the first range, pull it in even steps for 2 or 3 steps up to ten %. For example, if target range you want pulled is 5600 rpm, and the target percentage is 10, then go down 2 rpm's below that to 5200 rpm and pull like 3.5%, then 6.5% at 5400rmp, then the full ten at 5600, then step it back down again. And if it's a range of rpms, like 2000-4500, then pull 3.5% at 1600, 6.5 at 1800, then ten at 2000-4400, then 6.5 at 4600, and finally 3.5 at 4800.
Ultimately, you want steady and gradual pulls, so that the computer's not getting these steep fuel curves back and forth. That's what the manual says to do any how. Worked for me a LITTLE, but overall, my car just never ran right with that gen 2. The adjustments were slow to come on, and sometimes they would never come on.
With my new basic translator, I plugged it in and it just worked. I put the settings where they had to be, dressed the wires, and it drives nice. My fuel adjustments are done in the chip and it happens immediately. I see the AFRs as a result, and it works :)
 
The little black box that may be under your drivers side foot well panel. On that box you'll see a little separate panel that looks like you'd pull off to put batteries in the thing. Pull it off and see what position the little white dial is in. If you installed this yourself, and didn't mess with it, and bought it brand new, chances are it's already set though. If not, I'd check it.
 
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Overall, we're going to recreate my 10 page thread all over again by doing this. I LOVE helping people, but I think we'd get better and quicker results if you read my old thread, then throw me your phone number when you're done, because that thread is going to cause you to ask a lot more questions. Make sure to write them down as they come, then let me know and I'll call you and we can talk :)
 
The little black box that may be under your drivers side foot well panel. On that box you'll see a little separate panel that looks like you'd pull off to put batteries in the thing. Pull it off and see what position the little white dial is in. If you installed this yourself, and didn't mess with it, and bought it brand new, chances are it's already set though. If not, I'd check it.

I bought the kit brand new and installed it so it should be all factory set.
 
Ok but the AFR hits around 10 way before the alky comes in and way before full throttle.

You said 5psi or more, alky is on by then, throttle position doesn't matter. Although simple test... turn alky off, bring throttle up to that 5-10psi area and see if it is still rich (don't go full throttle with the alky off).
 
You said 5psi or more, alky is on by then, throttle position doesn't matter. Although simple test... turn alky off, bring throttle up to that 5-10psi area and see if it is still rich (don't go full throttle with the alky off).

I will give that a try and report back. Thank you!
 
It's just a little too rich, not a big deal. Either reduce alky or reduce WOT fuel using the chip. Try the alky first. If it starts to knock, put it back and do fuel instead.

You have a Powerlogger. Take a log and post it here.

Regards,
Eric
Eric - what should the AFR be under WOT if 9.5 - 10 is too rich?
 
10.8's a good starting number. Shoot for that. Pull WOT fuel until you get there. That's if your wide band is accurate.

Also, your cam description. I don't get it. And what sort of intercooler do you have?
 
I would have to look back in my book to make sure but I believe it was 3.5 ls1 in and extender out. I may have that backwards. I had a extreme G chip in with that set up. I removed that chip when I removed the translator

Well with all the helpful posts you have had it looks like troubleshooting with the stock maf and posting the powerlogger log would be where to start. FWIW I have the 3.5" LS1 and the extreme chip and the settings you indicated are what I was using. The gen 2 manual leaves a lot to be desired but the maft pro manual indicates that you need to have the prescaler inside the unit set to (ON) (the left two pins). For kicks I would pop open the gen 2 and see what the setting is (or if it even has a prescaler???). That may have been the issue all along? Here is a picture of the maft pro location.


upload_2014-10-1_14-53-12.png
 
looks like troubleshooting with the stock maf and posting the powerlogger log would be where to start.

I agree. I'm gonna hook the powerlogger back up and try to tie the wideband to it the post some files. May take me a day or two to get it done. Also what AFR is ideal for cruise/lite acceleration? At cruise I'm anywhere from 13.4-14.4 but under any acceleration (dead take off or cruise) and not even in boost, (vac/boost gauge will just be at zero not an issue) but the AFR drops to 9.5-10. Give it more throttle stays the same. WOT stays the same. What number is normal? Or is there a normal?
 
You said 5psi or more, alky is on by then, throttle position doesn't matter. Although simple test... turn alky off, bring throttle up to that 5-10psi area and see if it is still rich (don't go full throttle with the alky off).
Did you try this yet ?
 
You should post your settings for Mainscale, low, mid, and high. Also the MAF setting.
 
You should post your settings for Mainscale, low, mid, and high. Also the MAF setting.

Not running the GEN2 right now stock MAF with TT alky chip.

Turning the alky off had no affect.

Trying to finish up the powerlogger today, headed to the track tonight to make a few lite runs hope to record some good data
 
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